1998Exploder
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- Joined
- May 12, 2006
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- City, State
- Monument, CO
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2010 Adrenalin S/C
Hello everyone. Since this is my first post and I've learned a TON of useful tidbits on the site, I thought I would share my installation experience putting a newer stock head unit into my 1998 Exploder. So, here goes...
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford sound system conversions. Lately, Ford has been producing some fantastic stock head units that fit perfectly into older Ford Explorer models. Better yet, they look and feel totally stock, right down to the button design. One drawback, however, is that some of the systems are quite different in both configuration and contain totally different connectors and mounting hardware. Unless you’re an expert on wiring, this conversion can prove to be a tricky one.
There is hope. It can be done easily! We’re going to discuss a 6 disc in-dash conversion in a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT with the Premium amplifier option. Many Explorer models are similar. Make sure to check your stock head unit before buying anything; you could be surprised to find out you already have compatible connectors newer radios will plug directly into.
All you need is the following electronic equipment, items, and tools:
Audio Equipment:
1 - Ford 6 Disc Changer Unit - Spring Clip Mounting Hardware (T100 plugs W/O MACH option) ~ $200
1 – TARO T100 to P100 Retrofit Harness - F8FF14588EA ~ $60
Misc Equipment:
20 – Long cable ties
1 – Roll electrical tape
1 – Test CD (Choose your favorite music wisely)
Tools:
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Regular Screwdriver
Nut Driver w/ ¼”, 9/32” and 5/16” sockets
Wire cutters
T-50 TORX driver (for seatbelt bolt)
In this exercise, we chose Ford’s 6 Disc In-Dash MP3 changer w/Satellite option (part number 6L8T 18C 815 DD). So, let’s begin.
OVERVIEW
Below is a stock single CD stereo deck with premium amplifier found on various 1995 to 1999 Ford Explorers with the premium amplifier option. This typical deck is tired and the CD player skips frequently. Even though there is a 6 disc changer option on this particular model, it can be inconvenient loading them through the back of the truck. The connector configuration on the back of the stock head unit is a P100 type.
This connector types on the back of the unit, P100, are shown below:
Fortunately, there is a better way to upgrade the stock unit with a satellite-ready unit from newer Ford models, such as the Ford Mustang. Below is the handy tabbed stock unit found on many newer Ford models:
Be very cautious in selecting a new unit. Some come equipped for the Mach configuration, which may include extra subwoofer connectors. Other units may also have a different mounting setup to the snap-in tab kind.
One of the challenges on these newer stereos is that these units use a T100 connector setup to allow universal connectors in all Ford models.This connector set looks quite different than the P100. The T100 connector set contains 2-3 different connectors:
There is an easy way to convert this setup, and that is using the TARO universal P100 to T100 retrofit harness, shown below:
This connector allows you to bypass the stock amplifier on the premium setup. Note that this harness will not work with JBL, non-premium, or subwoofer setups, and the harness will render the 20x4 stock amplifier inoperable. Quite frankly, it’s not needed as the newer head units come equipped with a built-in 20x4 amplifier that’s much better than the stock one.
INSTALLATION
Installation is rather straightforward. You really don’t need to use any special extraction tools for the radio as it can be removed along with the stereo bezel. Start by removing the climate control knobs. This does not apply if you have a digital climate control unit.
Remove the two screws located directly beneath the stereo. You can also remove the stereo using a set of stereo tab tools, but it’s easier to route the wiring with it out of the dashboard.
Gently pry the entire stereo bezel away from the dash. Avoid using screwdrivers as this can mar the bezel.
Disconnect all the connectors from the bezel switches and stereo. Be careful with the tabs on the connectors. Otherwise you will have to solder new connectors onto the wiring harness if you break them.
Once the connectors have been removed, take the stereo out of the bezel by compressing the spring tabs on the left and right size of the stereo. A large screwdriver may be helpful also.
Now that the radio is out, it’s time to expose the premium amplifier(s) found in the rear of the Explorer. This is done by removing the plastic fender trim on the passenger side rear panel. Do not use a screwdriver to pop out the plastic fasteners as they may break. Matching colored fasteners are getting difficult to find these days.
Once you loosen the panel, loosen the tailgate kick plate with your hand.
Remove the two screws on the bottom of the panel with a Phillips head screwdriver. You can expose these screws by lifting up the edge of the carpet.
Remove the passenger side clothing hook.
Remove the TORX bolt from the passenger side seatbelt. This requires a 6 point T-50 TORX driver.
Gently pry the top part of the panel covering the passenger side fender well. It is not necessary to completely remove the panel. It will fold down enough for you to easily rewire the connectors around the amplifier.
Disconnect the primary speaker connector from the amplifier.
Now it’s time to check the stereo and all the speakers before the wiring harness is plumbed through the vehicle. Below is a picture of the TARO P100 to T100 retrofit harness. You can usually pick these up for around $60 on eBay. Even though it’s somewhat expensive, it will save you countless hours of cutting, stripping, and soldering up a custom wiring harness while bypassing the amp. Plus if you want to sell your Explorer, you can convert it back to stock form without issues. It also comes with the CD changer cable if you want to add it or utilize your existing stock changer.
Connect the red square connector to the back of the new stereo.
Connect the rectangular red connector to the back of the stereo.
Do the same for the rectangular gray connector…
…and the green connector.
On the amplifier side, connect the black rectangular connector to the connector previously removed from the amp.
Do the same for the rear CD changer, if equipped. Your stereo should now be ready to test. Make sure to place a disk into each of the 6 slots to ensure proper operation.
Now that the stereo is working properly, disconnect all the connections you just plugged in. Remove the kick panel from the driver’s size dash area. Simply pull up on the panel with your hand.
Remove the kick panel from the passenger side doors.
Run the harness cables behind the glove box. There is a handy hole in the dash sub-frame that makes it easy to pass the cables through.
To help keep the harness in place, use a cable tie to attach it to the sheet metal plate directly under the glove box. As you can see from the photo, we’re also wiring in a separate sub amplifier that we’ll tap into the rear speakers (not shown in this instruction guide, but is easy to do nonetheless)
Continue to route the harness around the kick panel connectors.
Once you get to the door, use the handy plastic wiring loom to run the harness and any other wires to the back seat area.
Route the harness around the seat belt. Roll up any remaining parts of the harness and cable tie to the other parts of the harness. You can feel free to remove the amp if desired. We decided to keep the amp in the vehicle so that we could easily replace the new unit with the stock one any time.
Reconnect the fasteners you connected up before. Snap all the panels back in place. Snap the stereo into the bezel. Reconnect all the bezel connectors. Test the stereo again. Put the bezel back into the dash and tighten everything up.
CONCLUSION
Congratulations. You now have a brand new changer with satellite radio capabilities with the look and feel of the original OEM stereo.
The conversion of your existing tired CD or Cassette head unit in your 1995-1999 Explorer is rather straightforward with the right setup. Even though you could replace all or part of the existing wiring harness, it’s much easier to buy the time-saving TARO retrofit harness. It will save you hours of fuss and provide weatherproof connections that look and feel totally stock.
Enjoy!
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford sound system conversions. Lately, Ford has been producing some fantastic stock head units that fit perfectly into older Ford Explorer models. Better yet, they look and feel totally stock, right down to the button design. One drawback, however, is that some of the systems are quite different in both configuration and contain totally different connectors and mounting hardware. Unless you’re an expert on wiring, this conversion can prove to be a tricky one.
There is hope. It can be done easily! We’re going to discuss a 6 disc in-dash conversion in a 1998 Ford Explorer XLT with the Premium amplifier option. Many Explorer models are similar. Make sure to check your stock head unit before buying anything; you could be surprised to find out you already have compatible connectors newer radios will plug directly into.
All you need is the following electronic equipment, items, and tools:
Audio Equipment:
1 - Ford 6 Disc Changer Unit - Spring Clip Mounting Hardware (T100 plugs W/O MACH option) ~ $200
1 – TARO T100 to P100 Retrofit Harness - F8FF14588EA ~ $60
Misc Equipment:
20 – Long cable ties
1 – Roll electrical tape
1 – Test CD (Choose your favorite music wisely)
Tools:
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Regular Screwdriver
Nut Driver w/ ¼”, 9/32” and 5/16” sockets
Wire cutters
T-50 TORX driver (for seatbelt bolt)
In this exercise, we chose Ford’s 6 Disc In-Dash MP3 changer w/Satellite option (part number 6L8T 18C 815 DD). So, let’s begin.
OVERVIEW
Below is a stock single CD stereo deck with premium amplifier found on various 1995 to 1999 Ford Explorers with the premium amplifier option. This typical deck is tired and the CD player skips frequently. Even though there is a 6 disc changer option on this particular model, it can be inconvenient loading them through the back of the truck. The connector configuration on the back of the stock head unit is a P100 type.
This connector types on the back of the unit, P100, are shown below:
Fortunately, there is a better way to upgrade the stock unit with a satellite-ready unit from newer Ford models, such as the Ford Mustang. Below is the handy tabbed stock unit found on many newer Ford models:
Be very cautious in selecting a new unit. Some come equipped for the Mach configuration, which may include extra subwoofer connectors. Other units may also have a different mounting setup to the snap-in tab kind.
One of the challenges on these newer stereos is that these units use a T100 connector setup to allow universal connectors in all Ford models.This connector set looks quite different than the P100. The T100 connector set contains 2-3 different connectors:
There is an easy way to convert this setup, and that is using the TARO universal P100 to T100 retrofit harness, shown below:
This connector allows you to bypass the stock amplifier on the premium setup. Note that this harness will not work with JBL, non-premium, or subwoofer setups, and the harness will render the 20x4 stock amplifier inoperable. Quite frankly, it’s not needed as the newer head units come equipped with a built-in 20x4 amplifier that’s much better than the stock one.
INSTALLATION
Installation is rather straightforward. You really don’t need to use any special extraction tools for the radio as it can be removed along with the stereo bezel. Start by removing the climate control knobs. This does not apply if you have a digital climate control unit.
Remove the two screws located directly beneath the stereo. You can also remove the stereo using a set of stereo tab tools, but it’s easier to route the wiring with it out of the dashboard.
Gently pry the entire stereo bezel away from the dash. Avoid using screwdrivers as this can mar the bezel.
Disconnect all the connectors from the bezel switches and stereo. Be careful with the tabs on the connectors. Otherwise you will have to solder new connectors onto the wiring harness if you break them.
Once the connectors have been removed, take the stereo out of the bezel by compressing the spring tabs on the left and right size of the stereo. A large screwdriver may be helpful also.
Now that the radio is out, it’s time to expose the premium amplifier(s) found in the rear of the Explorer. This is done by removing the plastic fender trim on the passenger side rear panel. Do not use a screwdriver to pop out the plastic fasteners as they may break. Matching colored fasteners are getting difficult to find these days.
Once you loosen the panel, loosen the tailgate kick plate with your hand.
Remove the two screws on the bottom of the panel with a Phillips head screwdriver. You can expose these screws by lifting up the edge of the carpet.
Remove the passenger side clothing hook.
Remove the TORX bolt from the passenger side seatbelt. This requires a 6 point T-50 TORX driver.
Gently pry the top part of the panel covering the passenger side fender well. It is not necessary to completely remove the panel. It will fold down enough for you to easily rewire the connectors around the amplifier.
Disconnect the primary speaker connector from the amplifier.
Now it’s time to check the stereo and all the speakers before the wiring harness is plumbed through the vehicle. Below is a picture of the TARO P100 to T100 retrofit harness. You can usually pick these up for around $60 on eBay. Even though it’s somewhat expensive, it will save you countless hours of cutting, stripping, and soldering up a custom wiring harness while bypassing the amp. Plus if you want to sell your Explorer, you can convert it back to stock form without issues. It also comes with the CD changer cable if you want to add it or utilize your existing stock changer.
Connect the red square connector to the back of the new stereo.
Connect the rectangular red connector to the back of the stereo.
Do the same for the rectangular gray connector…
…and the green connector.
On the amplifier side, connect the black rectangular connector to the connector previously removed from the amp.
Do the same for the rear CD changer, if equipped. Your stereo should now be ready to test. Make sure to place a disk into each of the 6 slots to ensure proper operation.
Now that the stereo is working properly, disconnect all the connections you just plugged in. Remove the kick panel from the driver’s size dash area. Simply pull up on the panel with your hand.
Remove the kick panel from the passenger side doors.
Run the harness cables behind the glove box. There is a handy hole in the dash sub-frame that makes it easy to pass the cables through.
To help keep the harness in place, use a cable tie to attach it to the sheet metal plate directly under the glove box. As you can see from the photo, we’re also wiring in a separate sub amplifier that we’ll tap into the rear speakers (not shown in this instruction guide, but is easy to do nonetheless)
Continue to route the harness around the kick panel connectors.
Once you get to the door, use the handy plastic wiring loom to run the harness and any other wires to the back seat area.
Route the harness around the seat belt. Roll up any remaining parts of the harness and cable tie to the other parts of the harness. You can feel free to remove the amp if desired. We decided to keep the amp in the vehicle so that we could easily replace the new unit with the stock one any time.
Reconnect the fasteners you connected up before. Snap all the panels back in place. Snap the stereo into the bezel. Reconnect all the bezel connectors. Test the stereo again. Put the bezel back into the dash and tighten everything up.
CONCLUSION
Congratulations. You now have a brand new changer with satellite radio capabilities with the look and feel of the original OEM stereo.
The conversion of your existing tired CD or Cassette head unit in your 1995-1999 Explorer is rather straightforward with the right setup. Even though you could replace all or part of the existing wiring harness, it’s much easier to buy the time-saving TARO retrofit harness. It will save you hours of fuss and provide weatherproof connections that look and feel totally stock.
Enjoy!
