Parts and Info for my Turbocharged 4.0 from my thread
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426937
This list is the basic parts (major items) I used to end up with a turbocharged 4.0 OHV. I hoped this could help consolidate information from the thread and from the research I've done to this point. This setup has resulted in great drivability allowing me to keep up with modern traffic. Boost comes on fast if you want to get on the go pedal but it also allows you to cruise out of boost at around stoich or slightly leaner programmed/tuned appropriately to do so. This set up would allow you to run 7 pounds on a daily driver, to this point in time, safely and reliably and I can pass obd2 emissions testing.
Smaller items such as vac lines, silicon fittings, lengths and bends of piping flanges etc. are more application specific and dependent on your choice of location for the turbo and style of turbo housings.
OIL
Oil cooled turbos heat up your oil
-oil cooler & lines
-oil cooler filter sandwich
-oil press sender to turbo oil line
-oil drain line from turbo to pan
-oil drain line bung
TURBO
The key to the systems functionality, turbine and impeller trims as well as casing size has a huge effect on the spool time and amount of air moved/boost provided.
This is what I recommend for a good versatility and I use mine as a daily driver.
-T3 .48ar turbine with a T4 .57 trim impeller
Mine is from turbonetics.
If a larger turbine casing is used it will cause lag until upper RPM, same with a higher trim turbine.
If a Larger impeller is used with the same size turbine, it may put you into boost much sooner as it will be moving a larger volume of air but it also has the ability to boost to a higher level.
On the 4.0 the T4 impeller is capable of pushing more boost than you would want to put through it as is demonstrated by the flow charts for the .57 trim impeller.
EXHAUST
This can be done by yourself if you can fabricate or your local exhaust shop again, I will cover the major end items not the pipe its self.
I had a y collector welded into my Oem Y under the oil pan and routed it into the turbo inlet above the pass. side frame rail, there's enough room, even with AC.
-38mm wastegate (largest that is needed but larger such as 44mm can be used for a negligibly quieter sound if dumped to atmosphere). Mine holds steady at 7lbs with no problems involving creep, at altitude it's actually too much flow, this could be fixed with a boost controller.
Reference pressure should be off of the impeller case if present or immediately after the turbo between it and the intercooler.
-using a spring at low boost (8lb for example) a 8lb Spring is all that's required.
-2.5" exhaust minimum, 3" is about the limit of size to go to unless you really build the internals to get more power, you'll loose a touch of bottom end but spool will come on a few hundred rpm sooner and allow for higher boost. I.E. On heavy accel from a stop that may be the difference between hitting boost at 1300 or 1400 RMP to 1000 or 1100 RPM.
I want to plumb my wastegate into my exhaust cat back and upgrade to 3", dumped is LOUD and the 3" volume will more than make up for the added flow in the pipe.
INTAKE
You can use an intake 2.5 to 3.5 inches in diameter successfully. I do not recommend going over 3.5 for tuning reasons and 2.5" is roughly the same diameter as the stock throttle body. My stock cylindrical air box is connected to the turbo and I'm using 2.5" pipe. Maintaining 3" should make the MAF function changes minimal during tuning compared to smaller or larger intake diameter.
-50mm Blow off valve of your choice, venting to atmosphere is easier than recirc and you get the traditional blowoff sound.
Spring selection: Using the hg vac to determine vac pressures on a good 3rd gear decel, pick a spring that is about 50% of that and you'll be good. I saw 23hg on a hard 3rd decel so I went with an 11lb Spring. I can't complain and it sounds great. If I'm shifting fast there's no lag and compared to without its a night and day difference.
Reference boost/vac needs to be from the manifold side of the throttlebody. Using the port on the drivers side of the manifold for the valve cover vent is perfect as you want both of those disconnected or routed pre turbo so you don't boost your crank case, ask me how I learned that... Such a mess.
-Intercooler, at least 24" wide, 12" tall and 2" deep, larger is better, to a point. I still see 102+ IAT's on 80 degree days but my mounting location is bad, a better location would likely keep me within 10 or 15 deg of outside temps (the target place to be).
-BA5000 MAF (Slot MAF from 2005+ mustangs)
-Slot MAF adapter pipe (3")
-Ford slot MAF wiring pigtail. You will wire the vehicles IAT sensor wires and MAF into this pigtail for the slot MAF
FUEL
-Walboro 190 LPH in tank pump or larger up to 255 LPH
-36lb injectors (minimum)
-New Oem O2 sensors (to get accurate catalogs and tunes)
GAUGES
-Boost Vac gauge - pick one, T it into a Vac line coming off of the manifold, a must to make sure you know what your pressures are doing.
-Wide band you'll also need an O2 and wide band reader that allows you to data log to get the appropriate AFRs.
ECM
Get your car tuned by a reputable pro or buy the software to DIY. It costs about the same but it HAS to be done.
Either way a Chip or Handheld will be purchased to program the ECM
I tuned my own but it saved me time and money since I'll make future mods and it's a hobby.
The hand held is required for remote tuning from a pro if one isn't near you.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS or OPTIONS
Many Misc parts to complete the build are needed and not addressed
Electric fan for improved cooling
Aluminum radiator
CAI
It can be done with a fojrding kit/snokel (my truck has a live snorkel)
Fuel pressure regulator
Cooler spark plugs
Oil can be pumped from a sump tank with an aux pump back to the valve cover to drain the turbo oil as an alternative to gravity drain.
42lb injectors
190, 250, 255 LPH pumps
Front mount turbo or rear mount turbo
Total cost for a build with new parts can be over 3k, a budget build could likely be done for 1k or so if you're thrifty.
I really hope this helps some folks out. I'd also love to see my set up improved upon.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426937
This list is the basic parts (major items) I used to end up with a turbocharged 4.0 OHV. I hoped this could help consolidate information from the thread and from the research I've done to this point. This setup has resulted in great drivability allowing me to keep up with modern traffic. Boost comes on fast if you want to get on the go pedal but it also allows you to cruise out of boost at around stoich or slightly leaner programmed/tuned appropriately to do so. This set up would allow you to run 7 pounds on a daily driver, to this point in time, safely and reliably and I can pass obd2 emissions testing.
Smaller items such as vac lines, silicon fittings, lengths and bends of piping flanges etc. are more application specific and dependent on your choice of location for the turbo and style of turbo housings.
OIL
Oil cooled turbos heat up your oil
-oil cooler & lines
-oil cooler filter sandwich
-oil press sender to turbo oil line
-oil drain line from turbo to pan
-oil drain line bung
TURBO
The key to the systems functionality, turbine and impeller trims as well as casing size has a huge effect on the spool time and amount of air moved/boost provided.
This is what I recommend for a good versatility and I use mine as a daily driver.
-T3 .48ar turbine with a T4 .57 trim impeller
Mine is from turbonetics.
If a larger turbine casing is used it will cause lag until upper RPM, same with a higher trim turbine.
If a Larger impeller is used with the same size turbine, it may put you into boost much sooner as it will be moving a larger volume of air but it also has the ability to boost to a higher level.
On the 4.0 the T4 impeller is capable of pushing more boost than you would want to put through it as is demonstrated by the flow charts for the .57 trim impeller.
EXHAUST
This can be done by yourself if you can fabricate or your local exhaust shop again, I will cover the major end items not the pipe its self.
I had a y collector welded into my Oem Y under the oil pan and routed it into the turbo inlet above the pass. side frame rail, there's enough room, even with AC.
-38mm wastegate (largest that is needed but larger such as 44mm can be used for a negligibly quieter sound if dumped to atmosphere). Mine holds steady at 7lbs with no problems involving creep, at altitude it's actually too much flow, this could be fixed with a boost controller.
Reference pressure should be off of the impeller case if present or immediately after the turbo between it and the intercooler.
-using a spring at low boost (8lb for example) a 8lb Spring is all that's required.
-2.5" exhaust minimum, 3" is about the limit of size to go to unless you really build the internals to get more power, you'll loose a touch of bottom end but spool will come on a few hundred rpm sooner and allow for higher boost. I.E. On heavy accel from a stop that may be the difference between hitting boost at 1300 or 1400 RMP to 1000 or 1100 RPM.
I want to plumb my wastegate into my exhaust cat back and upgrade to 3", dumped is LOUD and the 3" volume will more than make up for the added flow in the pipe.
INTAKE
You can use an intake 2.5 to 3.5 inches in diameter successfully. I do not recommend going over 3.5 for tuning reasons and 2.5" is roughly the same diameter as the stock throttle body. My stock cylindrical air box is connected to the turbo and I'm using 2.5" pipe. Maintaining 3" should make the MAF function changes minimal during tuning compared to smaller or larger intake diameter.
-50mm Blow off valve of your choice, venting to atmosphere is easier than recirc and you get the traditional blowoff sound.
Spring selection: Using the hg vac to determine vac pressures on a good 3rd gear decel, pick a spring that is about 50% of that and you'll be good. I saw 23hg on a hard 3rd decel so I went with an 11lb Spring. I can't complain and it sounds great. If I'm shifting fast there's no lag and compared to without its a night and day difference.
Reference boost/vac needs to be from the manifold side of the throttlebody. Using the port on the drivers side of the manifold for the valve cover vent is perfect as you want both of those disconnected or routed pre turbo so you don't boost your crank case, ask me how I learned that... Such a mess.
-Intercooler, at least 24" wide, 12" tall and 2" deep, larger is better, to a point. I still see 102+ IAT's on 80 degree days but my mounting location is bad, a better location would likely keep me within 10 or 15 deg of outside temps (the target place to be).
-BA5000 MAF (Slot MAF from 2005+ mustangs)
-Slot MAF adapter pipe (3")
-Ford slot MAF wiring pigtail. You will wire the vehicles IAT sensor wires and MAF into this pigtail for the slot MAF
FUEL
-Walboro 190 LPH in tank pump or larger up to 255 LPH
-36lb injectors (minimum)
-New Oem O2 sensors (to get accurate catalogs and tunes)
GAUGES
-Boost Vac gauge - pick one, T it into a Vac line coming off of the manifold, a must to make sure you know what your pressures are doing.
-Wide band you'll also need an O2 and wide band reader that allows you to data log to get the appropriate AFRs.
ECM
Get your car tuned by a reputable pro or buy the software to DIY. It costs about the same but it HAS to be done.
Either way a Chip or Handheld will be purchased to program the ECM
I tuned my own but it saved me time and money since I'll make future mods and it's a hobby.
The hand held is required for remote tuning from a pro if one isn't near you.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS or OPTIONS
Many Misc parts to complete the build are needed and not addressed
Electric fan for improved cooling
Aluminum radiator
CAI
It can be done with a fojrding kit/snokel (my truck has a live snorkel)
Fuel pressure regulator
Cooler spark plugs
Oil can be pumped from a sump tank with an aux pump back to the valve cover to drain the turbo oil as an alternative to gravity drain.
42lb injectors
190, 250, 255 LPH pumps
Front mount turbo or rear mount turbo
Total cost for a build with new parts can be over 3k, a budget build could likely be done for 1k or so if you're thrifty.
I really hope this helps some folks out. I'd also love to see my set up improved upon.
