Howdy!

[Cheeseguy]

I have been browsing this site for a week or so getting some really cool ideas. I just acquired my first explorer, a 1998 Explorer 4.0 OHV 4 door 4x4. I bought this off of craigslist for $1000 with 114k miles as a "mechanic's special". The previous owner had parked it 3 years ago when the fuel pump quit. He said he went through what sounded like a logical procedure for diagnosing a fuel pump failure, so I decided to go ahead and buy the vehicle. He showed me that it ran when gas was squirted in the intake. It had good oil pressure, moved under it's own power, so the tranny was at least capable of moving the car. Has a spotless clean interior, and a flawless body and good glass. I purchased a fuel pump and am getting ready to install it. I saw one of the posts where a hole was cut in the floor pan rather than dropping the fuel tank. This sounds much better than going through the hassle of dropping the tank. Being a fabricator, making a replaceable access hole cover sounds like a way better plan should it ever be necessary to do this again.

However! After reading a bit more, I'm beginning to wonder if the pump is really the problem. My theft light is blinking non stop every couple of seconds, whether the key is on, off, removed, cranking, etc. I only got one key with the vehicle when I bought it, and I hadn't even heard of the PATS system up until now. I will probably go ahead and cut the hole in the floor, just in case I do have to replace the pump, but, at at rate, it will make diagnosis easier.

Thanks in advance for the information I have already gleaned from this site.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! You could test the fuel pump by directly applying 12 volts to the wiring bypassing the PATS system. You could tap into the inertia switch or the fuel pump relay. Do you see a check engine light when you turn the key?

 

[Cheeseguy]

After reading the proper function of the PATS visual indicator, it appears to be functioning as it should. It blinks every couple of seconds until you turn the key to the "run" position, then it glows bright for about 3 seconds and then turns off. I do have a check engine light (CEL) on, but I have the MAF sensor unplugged to remove the intake boot. I did that so I could squirt some gas down its throat and see that the engine would run without any unusual noises, etc. I have traced voltage to the wiring harness leading to the pump, and as soon as I get the hole cut in the floor pan (tomorrow), I will be able to verify voltage all the way to the pump. I'm relatively certain the pump is the culprit.

 

[Gilbert G. Jr.]

Welcome!