Hub Question

[pick364]

how hard is it to rebuild my auto locking hubs ? i know everyone says to go with the manual lock outs, but i would really rather prefer to stay with my auto locks.

 

[Iron Weasel]

You can't really "rebuild" them like you would an engine. New internal replacement parts are damn near impossible to obtain, so that leaves junkyards and trying to piece together a working unit. Of course, you could find a perfectly fine working auto hub in a junkyard too and they're fairly easy to replace. If you were to buy new auto hubs, one hub is usually about the same price as a set of manual hubs, including the spindle nut conversion kit. Last time I looked, new auto hubs were around $300 each.

 

[pick364]

hmmm.... I was under the understanding you could buy aftermarket rebuild kits for them, I was going to try just cleaning them really well first, because i read in here that having grease inside the actual hub was not a good thing, but if no greaser in the hub what kind of lubricant should i use ? if any ? Seems pretty odd to me that there would be no grease used. By the way, Thank you for your info, I new to working with auto locking hubs, and have never had an issue with the manual lockouts i have owned, so any information I can get is greatly appreciated !

 

[Glen4X4]

If you want the auto's just for convenience why not just put manuals in and during times where you think you may need 4wd just leave the hubs locked in so that you can still have 4wd on the fly? I had done that with my 1st gens.

 

[Iron Weasel]

hmmm.... I was under the understanding you could buy aftermarket rebuild kits for them.

If you can find any internal replacement parts, I applaud your Googlefu - it is much better than mine. Before I replaced my auto hubs with a set of OEM Warn units (lucky junkyard find), I searched high, low, and in between for replacement parts...I checked at least a dozen Ford dealers including several in surrounding states and couldn't come up with anything.

I was going to try just cleaning them really well first, because i read in here that having grease inside the actual hub was not a good thing, but if no greaser in the hub what kind of lubricant should i use ? if any ? Seems pretty odd to me that there would be no grease used. By the way, Thank you for your info, I new to working with auto locking hubs, and have never had an issue with the manual lockouts i have owned, so any information I can get is greatly appreciated !

A very light coat of a lightweight grease would be sufficient, white lithium grease sprayed lightly around the cam assembly would be OK. The problem with grease comes in when you have people cram the hub full of wheel bearing grease or another heavy grease. It actually prevents the cam assembly from making contact with the "teeth" on the hub itself.

Usually you'll want to clean out the hubs the best you can then let them soak in ATF overnight and let them drip dry before replacing them. During vehicle operation, some grease from the wheel bearings will be thrown out and will make its way onto the cam assembly and into the hub. Another problem you'll encounter is missing washers.

From the factory, there were a series of 3 washers / needle bearings which sat between the spindle face and cam assembly and acted like a shim to push the cam assembly into the correct location to mate with the hub itself. Over time the washers either become lost or broken and the cam assembly can't mate up with the hub. I also tried tracking down the washers through Ford and about the only parts Ford makes for the auto hubs are the sticker and the rubber o-ring.

 

[BWTGUY]

Pick 364, I discovered that the last time my BEBE (Brown Eddie Bauer Explorer) had it's front wheel bearings packed (before I bought it), They also "packed" the auto hubs! It would go into engagement but ratchet as I turned the wheel or accelerated.

I pulled the hubs apart, cleaned them and the stub axle with kerosene, and soaked the internals of the auto hubs in auto-trannie fluid. The next day I reassembled the hubs and gave er' a try. All worked as it was supposed to. First chance I had, I bought a set of Warn manuals off of Craig's list for $60.00 new-in-the-box with the install washer set. For $10.00 more, the guy sold me an installer 1/2 inch socket wrench that was made for the Warn hubs so they could be torqued to Spec.

You buy time by taking care of your old ones but really need the Warns as when parts wear out, there is no sure source of parts this side of the Junk Yard which may, or may not be any good. I did this a year ago and have never been sorry. I have a used set of auto hubs if you want them. It'll cost about $20.00 to ship by USPS flat rate box so if you want them, let me know and I'll make sure of the shipping cost.

Oh yeah, you can have them for free. just pay the shipping as I'm not sure how much if any life is left in them.

 

[BWTGUY]

pick364 I just ran across this on Craig's List.

Brand new never used
part number 20990
WARN LOCKING HUBS
have original packaging
with the instructions paper
made for FORD, CHEVY, DODGE, JEEP
not a spec of dirt on them
just been sitting in the box
would like $50 OBO
but give me an offer
we can work something out

They are at this URL

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/2039676529.html

 

[huntman58]

pick364 I just ran across this on Craig's List.

Brand new never used
part number 20990
WARN LOCKING HUBS
have original packaging
with the instructions paper
made for FORD, CHEVY, DODGE, JEEP
not a spec of dirt on them
just been sitting in the box
would like $50 OBO
but give me an offer
we can work something out

They are at this URL

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/2039676529.html

They will not fit a stock explorer there for full size trucks or jeeps with Dana 44 axels and 19 splines not the DANA 35’s that we have. I had them on my old dodge.

I also have warn manuals on my explorer .Got them at 4 wheel parts in Fresno. Love them and never had a problem with them but I sure did blow my stock manuals up big time!
Good buy for any one that has a Dana 44.

 

[BWTGUY]

Thanks for putting me straight huntman. I'll keep looking for some cheap WARNs for pick364

 

[pick364]

wow ! thanks to all of you for the info ! It has lead me to the decision of just going ahead and putting manual lockouts on and being done with it. I really dont get into serious 4 wheel off roading with it just my everyday driver but i do use it in snow getting to work ( I drive a snow plow in winter at work ) and mud getting to my hunting properties, so i guess my lazy butt will just have to get out and lock'em when i need 'em ! lol !! again, thanks to all of you for all the info !!!

 

[huntman58]

wow ! thanks to all of you for the info ! It has lead me to the decision of just going ahead and putting manual lockouts on and being done with it. I really dont get into serious 4 wheel off roading with it just my everyday driver but i do use it in snow getting to work ( I drive a snow plow in winter at work ) and mud getting to my hunting properties, so i guess my lazy butt will just have to get out and lock'em when i need 'em ! lol !! again, thanks to all of you for all the info !!!

One thing you will and should also enjoy with the manuals is if you do have to back up they still work were the autos do not they unlock when you back up. Not a good thing if you need to rock a truck to get unstuck or to go around a really bad spot. For this one reason alone and learning it the hard way on a hunting trip I went to manuals and never have I looked back. Yes I would love to not have to get out and lock them but I just pick my time and place now to do that and not wait tell I am forced to as driving with them locked dose no harm but to the MPG factor.