Humming while driving 45+ mph

[BrianDye]

2006, V6 4x4

Just picked it up and noticed a humming that seems to start at around 45 mph. Seems to be louder at higher speeds, like 55. Not loud, but definitely noticeable. Doesn't seem like a wheel bearing, and it's constant with speed, not RPM's. I shifted down to 3rd while doing around 45 and while the RPMs increased, the noise did not.

Is this just "normal" 4x4 noises? It's been quite a few years since I've driven a 4x4 vehicle.

Everything functions as normal, nothing odd happening while driving other than the noise. Just doesn't seem normal to me.

*Edit - just remembered, I do feel it in the steering wheel while driving. Not vibrating or shaking though, I can just feel it if that makes sense. Almost as if driving on a tougher surfaced road.

 

[denninc]

Sounds like wheel bearing/hubs.

Heres a previous link

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366194&page=2

 

[BrianDye]

I read that thread before I posted, but skipped over the part where he said it doesnt have the usual bearing symptoms like turning a certain way and then losing the noise. Hopefully thats all it is. Maybe I can get some reimbursement from the dealer since I just bought it and havent even put maybe a hundred miles on it.

Either way, if its anything like my 2000 Explorer, wont be a terribly hard job. Ill probably throw new brakes on it as well, if I have time to wait. How long does it typically take for them to completely go? Im a bit tight on cash right now, so if I could squeeze a month out of them still, id replace them all along with brakes all around.

I did notice a small squeak when driving with the windows down next to buildings, didnt change when I hit the brakes, so I would strongly guess bearings now.


RockAuto shows about $160 per front hub assy, does that seem normal? Rears are about $100. Both are Timken brand. The front looks easy just like my 2000 was, but the back looks like the bearing comes separate from the hub? Any special tools needed for that?

 

[Logangray02sport]

Not anything like your previous set up. The rears are a pain due to knuckle has to be pulled and bearings pressed in and out with a large press. Fronts aren't bad to replace all I can say is raise hell if they don't seem to want to fix it most places have a return policy if not the internet and customer reviews go along way. Sources I work for a ford dealership

 

[BrianDye]

Well, looks like I have to bite the bullet and order at least one. Girlfriend said the noise is terrible today when she got on the highway coming home. Cant afford both at the moment. What can I look for to see what side is making the noise? Both WILL be replaced, but the second one will have to wait a week or so.


Or, do you think id be alright for a few thousand miles if I ordered a set of the cheaper ones? Wouldnt mind swapping them out again, would be nice to buy myself some more time so I can order pads and rotors as well.


*Edit. Not gonna risk the cheap ones. Seems like every single person who has used them, including Duralast and the low end from Orielys, Advanced Auto, etc has had numerous units fail either right out of the box, or less than 100 miles down the road. Really wish the Pay After Delivery option was available for these on eBay. That'd be a miracle right now, but of course wont pop up.

 

[BrianDye]

Waiting for the seller to respond. Should be picking up two Motorcraft HUB-67 units for $150 each, shipped. Perfect long weekend off work this weekend to to the repair. Just gonna have to find a torque wrench so I tighten the axle nut accordingly. Never knew about the too loose/tight premature bearing failure.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

preload is the most important part of the install ....I use the $40 ebay specials and I still have yet to see them fail... unlike the $110 autozone ones that fail in 13 months... 1 month out of warranty replacement... even so I would rather spend $40 and redo wheel bearings every year than spend $150+ and do them every 2-3.... no replacement part will ever outlast the factory oem part... they pretty much design them to fail

 

[BrianDye]

I'll sleep better knowing I got the Motorcraft OEM's. Seller agreed to $155 each so $310 for both shipped. Really hoping I get them by this weekend, off work Sat/Sun/Mon and probably won't have another day off for a month after that.

 

[BrianDye]

MotorCity, since you've done them on your 07, aside from the torque wrench, are there any special tools ill need aside from the various sockets/ratchets? Should I rent the hub puller from AutoZone?


Loosen axle nut, and lugs
Jack vehicle up
Remove tire
Remove Axle nut
Remove brake caliper/pads and hang caliper somewhere out of way
Remove rotor
Remove 3 bolts holding the hub on
Push axle out of hub

Then basically reverse that procedure? Ive done hubs on the 2000 I had, seems like it would be a very similar process, no?

BTW- Just noticed you're from Flat Rock, im just a few minutes south in Monroe.

 

[MNgopher]

I'd spend a little time diagnosing before just throwing two new front bearings at it. Ways to do that are to check for play when jacked up off the ground, loading and unloading side to side and listening for changes, and getting on a lift/jack stands and feeling/listening to the bearings.

Last round on mine, one of the rear bearings was bad enough it carried through the driveline and felt like it could be felt in the steering wheel.

Fronts are as described and relatively easy. Set the correct torque on the axle nut. Don't cheap out - Motorcrafts are fine, but the lower tier parts house ones are bad news. Those are I'm going to sell soon, and don't care if the next guy has to redo the job...

The rears are just easier to have a shop do it...

 

[MotorCityFats13]

MotorCity, since you've done them on your 07, aside from the torque wrench, are there any special tools ill need aside from the various sockets/ratchets? Should I rent the hub puller from AutoZone?


Loosen axle nut, and lugs
Jack vehicle up
Remove tire
Remove Axle nut
Remove brake caliper/pads and hang caliper somewhere out of way
Remove rotor
Remove 3 bolts holding the hub on
Push axle out of hub

Then basically reverse that procedure? Ive done hubs on the 2000 I had, seems like it would be a very similar process, no?

BTW- Just noticed you're from Flat Rock, im just a few minutes south in Monroe.

I have only had this ex since december and have had nothing go out or break yet... only changed oil and brakes but I cant see it being different from any other hubs they are pretty much the same 3 lug housings .... did these on 2nd and 3rd gen explorers, trailblazers and dodge rams they were all the same except for bolt sizes