I broke it.... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I broke it....

Anuk Su Namun

Member
Joined
February 18, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Chincoteague Island, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer 4WD
I went to Baltimore last weekend (friday night) and drove back No problems what so ever. started the vehicle Saturday morning and it sounded like i throw a rod or needed oil.... (Neither which occured just sounded really horrible) after it warmed up my Check Engine light came on and began to flash has I drove it up the street to the traffic light ook it to AutoZone and the guy was nice enough to stick it on a machine to read ECU Code

Misfire Cylinder 3 & 5

or P0303 and P0305

now ive had my truck for 1.5yrs..Never tuned it up (I know beat me later) brought it with 175,000miles on it it currently has 202,135 on it...
it still drives but shutters something horible an idles like utter <insert unlady like word here>.
Im taken it somewhere next Thursday to have it re-examained and fixed but, Im really clueless has to what could have caused such a sudden overnight issue without warning.
I mean she ran perfectly before hand idle smooth.. I have driven from Younkers, NY to Northern VA on a single tank of gas recently
(other than the fact I never switched out the plugs or wires) Vehicle idles at 800RPM and it always has starts right up... so im thinking I just need a tune-up in a bad way cconsidering the insane amount of highway driving I do.
Not asking for a diagnosis just trying to get a broader feel for what I may have broke or neglected :(
 



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I Think You Are Right

That sounds exactly like what happened to my 99 Eddie at about 80K miles it was running great and all of the sudden out of the blue it started to shake and misfire. I had assumed that these cars did not need tune up service until 100K miles and had not thought much about it at that time. What I found was the plugs on a couple of cylinders were missing the ground electrode and checking the plug wires showed no continuity on three of them. Do yourself a favor and install Motorcraft plugs and wires, it does make a difference.
Mike
 






I dont quite understand the placement of the spark plugs in relationship to removing them the passenger side bank of the engine almost looks as if you need to remove them by removing the front passenger wheel...so ill let a professional evaluate and correct it but the guy at Autozone seemed to think I hit the nail on the head to... ill let you know though thanks.
 






I dont quite understand the placement of the spark plugs in relationship to removing them the passenger side bank of the engine almost looks as if you need to remove them by removing the front passenger wheel...so ill let a professional evaluate and correct it but the guy at Autozone seemed to think I hit the nail on the head to... ill let you know though thanks.

If it's the OHV, then it can be more comfortable to remove them by working through the wheel well area. I found it was easier to just work from the top, as long as you have arms/hands that are slim enough to make the necessary maneuvers.
 






its a 4.0L SOHC ....is that the same thing has an OHC your referencing My hands are tiny but so is my hand strength and looking at that bankfrom the top my AC lines and whatever that little box ting is that looks like a eater core assembly is totally in the way.....
 






On my V8 it is far easier to remove the front wheels and the splash shields between the wheel wells and engine compartment to remove the spark plugs and plug wires. Still have to do part of the plug wire routing and the coil connections from the top. Good luck.
 






For the passenger side, remove the wheel and the splash shield. Then the plugs are easy to access. Don't bother trying to get them from above on the SOHC.
 






I have a spark plug socket with a built in u-joint on the end, that mixed with a decent set of extensions make plugs relatively easy to do. Then again I work as a technician for 6 hours a day so I'm used to moving my hands around in tight spaces.

Pro-tip, if you don't have hand strength, get a longer wrench. twice the length=twice the force applied to the center. torque=power multiplied the length of the lever. or pound on it with your hand once or twice.
 






Check your coil pack. If you can get your hands on a multi-meter check the resistance across the primary and secondary.

Primary is the actual connector with only two pins (+ and -) this should be 0.3 to 1.0 ohms.
Secondary are the plug wires. First mark them with tape so you don't get confused were they go. Then, check across 1&5, 4&3, 2&6. These should read 6.5 to 11.5 Kilo-ohms.

If any of these reading are out it's a bad coil. Usually when it's sudden like that and involves more than one cylinder misfire the coil pack is the culprit.
 






I actually just replaced the coil all together.....
same issue so to the shop it goes Thursday
 






Well, that bites. Could be the wires shorting against the engine somewhere. Good luck bud. If it's anything out of the ordinary, post your Diag results!
:popcorn:
 






Will do .....
truck runs and starts fine just misses and stumbles on idle and acceleration also the two plugs i was able to remove were "wet" and looked oily although im pretty sure it was gasoline by the smell
 






I literally was just told by Pep-Boys "we dont know why your check engine light is on" the mechanic doesnt know what it could be"..............................
 






I literally was just told by Pep-Boys "we dont know why your check engine light is on" the mechanic doesnt know what it could be"..............................

I have my reservations about Pep Boys, I only take my X there if I 1) Know exactly what needs to be done and 2) have no other option.

I would replace all plugs and wires. A misfire can and will come out of no where. My 98 mounty had a misfire out of nowhere, turns out the insulation on a wire for the plug had eroded and was exposed and burnt up. Also had it happen to my mom's Aviator on the way home from Boston last xmas; bad COP was the cause but since it was still under extended warranty they just replaced all COPs, all wires and all plugs.
 






Apparently, they think I need fuel injectors......
thats where we are now
 






FUEL INJECTORS....
However one would think the ECU would throw a specific code for that ......
Oh well, But I have new injectors and a major tune-up alll to the tune of $954.56...
Now to see if I can get that discounted by a hundred or so ....
 






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