I like 8.8's

[CDW6212R]

If you do keep the OEM LS carrier, try to not push the throttle when the steering wheel is turned. Those will last a decent time if you go straight. What wears out the clutches fast is hitting the gas at a turn, stopped, with the wheel cranked. When a tire starts to spin(the turn), the difference in speed kills the clutches. I have ruined one in three months, from hundreds of starts with the RR tire on gravel(I'm a mail carrier).

Add an extra pair of frictions to it, four per side. Good luck,

 

[tennerv8]

Are these units easy to replace the clutches in? Do you have to remove the carrier or take out the pinion? That would make me not want to tackle a project like that if I had to mess with setting the gears back up.

 

[CDW6212R]

It is easy, no setting up gears, the carrier stays in place.

First remove the cross shaft, be careful loosening the tiny locking bolt, it is 8mm and fragile. Gently loosen that, sometimes they have been tightened too much, and if they break, they can be hell to get out.

When that bolt lets go, the hard part(worry) is over. You have to deal with that bolt for removing the axles anyway, but still give it a lot of respect always.

Without the shaft in their between the axles, take out the c-clips and axles(and the LS spring for an LS carrier). Then turn the side gears inside the carrier, those two are exactly opposite of each other, and have a cup washer behind each. When they reach the carrier opening, they will fall out. You will see how those gears and the cup washers work together, and thus how they go back in.

With those side gears out, you then can get the clutches and frictions out by hand, from each side. The steels are side by side stock, and to add a friction you simply arrange them without the steels being side by side. Alternate the frictions with the steels. The rebuild kits come with more selective washers, likely you will need a thinner washer to give enough clearance for the frictions. You have to assemble the side gears and axles to check the end clearance. Thus you likely will have to pull the side gears out again to swap the clearance shims. It isn't really difficult at all, you should enjoy it when you see how little trouble it is. Regards,

 

[Totalled]

http://s-series.org/component/option,com_tech_article/Itemid,/item,58/task,item/

 

[tennerv8]

Well I picked up an 8.8! I got one out of a 1997 explorer. Its a 373 gear with a traclok. It has 58,000 miles on it. I got it for $300. I had to drive 150 miles one way to get it. All of the local salvage yards wanted $400-$600 for the same thing with more miles. Its clean and complete except for the piece that bolts to the round disc/plate thats attached to the pinion. I need this part to complete my swap. Do any of you guys have one laying around? Or know where I could get one fairly cheap? I have a picture here of what I need...or not because I don't know how to post pictures.

 

[ericautopart]

A pinion yoke? I probably have one laying around I think theyre like $25.00 or somthing..

 

[tennerv8]

A pinion yoke? I probably have one laying around I think theyre like $25.00 or somthing..

Yeah its the part that has four holes in it and bolts to the round flat rearend "pinion?" part and the other end of it accepts the u-joint. I just went to two salvage yards and searched every square inch of both places and I found nothing. The had the complete driveshaft with the piece I need still attched to the shaft but they wouldnt sell just the peice to me. They wanted to sell me the whole driveshaft. Thats the only way they would give me the part. I don't need the driveshaft, just the piece that bolts to the rearend. I don't know where else to get something like this without buying the whole shaft. I would like to find one used like on ebay or something but I checked and found nothing. Would anyone on the forum have one of these?

 

[CDW6212R]

Those are supposed to stay with the whole rear, which is why you are having a hard to finding it. That price was fairly good, which may be because they took that off before. It's the yards fault for most difficulties in getting parts. Too many of them have stupid policies about selling whole parts sets, or single pieces.

I would check with businesses which build driveshafts. Good luck,

 

[410Fortune]

You will find your part on the back of any Explorer rear driveshaft, it is part of the driveshaft not the rear end.

I have a few of those suckers laying around if you cant find one locally...

 

[CDW6212R]

Now I'm wondering what he's after, it was said that it's missing from the rear end. Ah, there are two kinds of pinion yokes which came on the later trucks. One has the round plate, and one has the actual u-joint junction. These Explorers have the round plate.

 

[410Fortune]

he said the part that bolts to the round 4 bolt flange and accepts the u joint, this would be the end of the driveshaft, the back of the CV joint

Its part of the driveshaft, not 8.8

Your best bet is likely to get the entire Explorer rear driveshaft and use it for your conversion.. any good driveline shop can make you a driveshaft that will work.

The driveshaft from any 8.8 truck will work for a builder, Ranger, Explorer, F-150, Bronco, Explorer, Expedition, etc

 

[tennerv8]

The part has four "ears" on it with a hole in each one. It bolts to he four holes one the end of the rearend pinion. I found tons of them in the salvage yard but they were all conected to driveshafts, which they want me to buy the whole shaft just for that piece. I looked at all the rearends also and none of them had the piece on them. I bought the rearend 150 miles away so I can't really go back there and request the part that they didnt give me with my purchase. Hey 410Fortune, how much you want for one of those? The rearend I have is a 1997 out of a 4.0 explorer. I already have a driveshaft ready to go, just need that one piece.

 

[410Fortune]

they didnt sell it to you because it is parts of the d shaft, not rear end

$15 + shipping and its all yours
You should be able to pull one at any junk yard for $5 though, just a thought. Heck even a 8.8 Mustang will have this part...

 

[tennerv8]

they didnt sell it to you because it is parts of the d shaft, not rear end

$15 + shipping and its all yours
You should be able to pull one at any junk yard for $5 though, just a thought. Heck even a 8.8 Mustang will have this part...

If you got one i'll take it. They wouldnt sell it to me at the salvage yard. They wanted me to buuy the whole driveshaft for $50.

 

[tennerv8]

they didnt sell it to you because it is parts of the d shaft, not rear end

$15 + shipping and its all yours
You should be able to pull one at any junk yard for $5 though, just a thought. Heck even a 8.8 Mustang will have this part...

Personal message sent.