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i need a supercharging plan..

alright guys, here is the deal, my local shop told me that i need a plan of action for my engine build (they are helping me for a grad challenge high school thing)...

soo the plan currently is... (2003 ford ranger 4.0 SOHC manual, with JBA shorty heads, K&N CAI, and straight pipe)

grab an engine stand of craigslist and a heater for the winter :(

scrap a old motor out of the junkyard, have one in mind.. 2003 4.0 SOHC with 83K miles....600$ good for that? im gonna try to shop around, but i really want to see the engine run before i buy it, i guess thats just me though AND WOULD A 4.0 explorer engine bolt right up??

Looking for the 300rwhp range

im gonna take it all apart, get someone to hone it, port the heads, get some lower compression pistons i think, around 9:1 i think? and throw in a different cam while im in there (NEED ADVICE ON WHICH ONE AND WHATS INVOLVED, i hear you have to modify some stuff if you go with option A, but can just swap option B in without anything)

internal wise, thats about all im gonna do, not sure if there should be more

sooo after that, gonna start putting it back together and snag a supercharger kit from rpcaster i think...and then snag the charger...(unless someone knows how to mount a better charger, i saw someone on RPS with a MP112)

was thinking about water/meth injecting that, but the local shop said that they could probably rig up an after cooler for it, so i was like, what the hell, that would be good!!...and im planning on putting the smaller/smallest pulley on it

i will be replacing the clutch to complement the power, but have seen people with the stock tranny with this kind of power....i have just been told not to drop the clutch and have the wheels lock up.



PLEASE GIVE ALL THE ADVICE POSSIBLE!! will be starting shopping for an engine tommorow hopefully
 



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heyy guys/gals, soo i put my new built motor in...yadda yadda...with the m112 on it...and the spec stage 5 clutch (i needed the clutch, some said spec was legit..some said they would not goo with spec...at all...some said that they have had some small problems with spec...) soo that was mixed feelings with that..but centreforce didnt have the dual friction clutch for another like 3 weeks..and i HAD to put the motor in...and soo i went to spec and scoped that out and got the stage 5 because the rep told me that it would hold the most torque at 510 at the flywheel...stage 4 was 420...stage 3+ was 370 stage 3 was like 320...and i was planning on putting about 300whp down, which would hopefully be about 360ish wtq...which is somewhere above/around 420..soo to be safe on that i went to stage 5....PROBABLY OVERKILL...i notice that now.... :(..

but onto the problem...the setup only has 110miles on it now..soo i guess its kinda hard to judge the problem, but anyway...i ahev to like relearn how to drive cause the clutch is like sooo sticky that WOW...but anyway again

when i left the tuner shop (they tuned the fuel trims to make it driveable) i heard this like chirping noise as if i was breifly spinning the tires...and the tuner was like, waoh i was not hearing that on the dyno...and he thought it was coming from upfront...soo we were guessing the clutch or something to do with the clutch

soo i drive it around blah blah and its just SCREAMING (chirping) but like really whinning and high pitched when i pull from a stop...more soo when i ride the clutch alittle..but i dont think the tranny will be able to really take me just dropping the clutch, and that will be hard on all the joints....but it chirps in 1st...then i shift to second and it slightly chirps..and sometimes it chirped going into 3rd....now after driving it alittle...i started to realized if i try to rev match the shifts and slowly let the clutch out...SLOWLY it wont do it...just coming out of a stop it will...WIERD....but driving today...i went through all the shifts and IT DIDNT DO IT..AT ALL...not even from a stop....

then when i get home, im pulling onto the lawn and its making the chirping sound when my foot is nowhere near the clutch...this also happened when i was breaking while the truck was still in gear...just foot on the break..and it was like chirping....soooo that throw out my thoughts about stuff that had to deal with the truck just starting up or whatever...like the clutch being like too good and the clutch making contact with the flywheel and making a chirp or something? i dk..

anyone have any ideas for me? thanks
 



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Is it possibly the throwout bearing? They can chirp, whine, or squeal, and will get worse as time and miles go by.....did you re-use the stock throwout? that clutch may be too much for it to handle.
 






the squeling is a lot less than it was 50 miles ago....the throwout bearing came with the clutch and pressure plate and pilot bearing...

im really worried about when i stop in 1st gear at a stop sign, and have my foot on the clutch, it is still engaged and wants to pull me forward....and i cant get it out of first at this point without moviing...

and then when i started my car up today after it was sitting in the driveway in first...i start it and it wont get out of first...i just cant pull it out of first...WTF
 






Can you feel vibration from the clutch pedal?
 






uhhhh not usually....sometimes i feel some weird **** under my foot....

i was told by spec to bleed the slave cylinder and that rangers have a common problem with this or something
 






I have a G-Box from next level, and I think I wired it worng, I am going to try it again since I now know which line is the IAT wire, and I will let you all know what happens.
 






alright guys and girls...i have been posting my troubles up on other forums, but im gonna come see what you all think...

im having a clutch problem right now....the clutch doesnt disengage all the way...sometimes when i come to a stop i cant put it into gear...i need to shut the car off..to get it in gear, then start it back up...sometimes when i come to a stop and keep it in 2nd gear when i stop, it squeels...(it squeels when it slips..) soo its slipping when i have my foot on the clutch...when its supposed to be disengaged....

noow this all started like 100 miles after i put the new engine in......yay..

can the slave leak in on itself? if the slave was gonne south how would i know??...looking up through the peep hole, i cant see any liquid driping from the slave..everything looks good up there...(other than that the throw out bearing barely throws (lacking disengagement..))


i have heard/read that the master cylinder is mounted in such a way that it is almost impossible to get the out of when using the typical bleeding process...to fix this, i was told to take the master out and tip it so the plunger was facing down to force the air up...im still working on that....

are there any good ways to tell what the problem is...master/slave...rather it not be the slave cause i dont wanna take the tranny off..aha :(....but could i drain the system again and see if the liquid is dirty, would this tell me that the seals on one of the cylinders is bad?
 






This forum has the best transmission/drivetrain guys there is. Go to that section and post a general description of what the problem is.
 






That's good advice, people who can help will respond better to a thread titled for the problem. I wish I could help, but I don't know much about manual transmissions.
 






alright!!!

results-
281whp/314wtq, 14 PEAK pounds boost...turns out to be more like 10 driving the street, 12 degrees timing, 125 degree air temps

very conservative, no water meth on that run, didnt have a relay, pump would of fried the hobbs switch

IMG_2163.jpg

IMG_2164.jpg

IMG_2165.jpg


ill get the dyno graph up soon
 






Very nice, I'd like to get you to work on mine. Maybe it would get done.
 






Very nice, well done! How does she feel?
 






A light weight Ranger, good compression and gearing, that truck is fun to drive.
 






yaa it gets up and goes in 2nd gear..tears right through 1st,2nd havent had the balls to get to 3rd, but the tires are gonna have to get alittle fatter out back...but it moves.

probably next summer i will revisit it with the water meth, see what that can make for power.

but its pretty fun to drive...finally has the power that i have wanted...the N/A ranger was **** on the highway...even the m90 4.0...always had to shift to 4th, just keep it in 5th the whole way.....but just cruising around town (besides the clutch problem) it has the neccesary power...or pulling the trailer
 






hey guys/girls, i posted this in the tranny section, let me know if yall got any thoughts




so im back with problems. my truck is stored for the winter as i am at college playing ball this winter so i wouldnt really need it. so im trying to plan what im going to do to it when it comes out in the spring.

the problem. it has a spec stage 5 clutch in it. the problem is, it squeals when engaging (that doesnt bother me.) but it ALSO doesnt disengage fully when im at a light so i cant take it out of gear..and it wants to creep forward.

soo...i would like to put a different clutch in it, but the top two bolts on the bell housing are gonna be a BEAR to get to with the m112 sitting on top (to hard to take that off)

soo my other option is..finding out why it wont disengage..im thinking i need a master cylinder that pushes a little more fluid down to push the slave JUST a bit further...this would be like a cheaper (dont know which master i would need) but its less work then taking the tranny off.

and if i could just get out of gear all the time at stop signs and stuff, i would be a HAPPY camper..i could deal with the squealing and the slightly harsh starting..not that bad in 2nd gear...

but what you all think? anyone know of a master i could try? i hear older style ranger masters were slightly bigger in diameter to push more fluid

thanks
 






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