I need help with bleeding my clutch | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I need help with bleeding my clutch

Pmmayo

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January 18, 2015
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 ford f150
Is there any way to bleed my clutch without using the bleeder scre it is broken and there is an easy out broken off inside it. Abd the only way to drill it out is to remove tge tranny and im trying to not have to do that.
 



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You can pull a vacuum from the rubber hose going to the reserve/fill reservar
 






In that situation, it's worth trying to find another way. Changing the slave is a lot of work.

Vacuum fill might work if you can figure out a way to actually do it. You can't pull a vacuum on the resevoir line because it is just going to collapse. It's also on the wrong side of the master cylinder. You really only need to bleed the slave this way, but the issue is how to connect to it. Most likely, you would need to add a tee with a valve in the middle of the line from the master to the slave. You could hook up a vacuum pump at that point and pull the line down (which hopefully can hold the negative pressure). A couple valves would let you seal off the vacuum and connect a fluid supply to refill the system. You would really have to watch out for air pockets in the plumbing since there isn't much volume in all the lines. But if it works, it might be a good way to get the air out of the master lines too.

If you get something that works, post some pictures for us. I expect you will soon be changing the slave though.
 






In that situation, it's worth trying to find another way. Changing the slave is a lot of work.

Vacuum fill might work if you can figure out a way to actually do it. You can't pull a vacuum on the resevoir line because it is just going to collapse. It's also on the wrong side of the master cylinder. You really only need to bleed the slave this way, but the issue is how to connect to it. Most likely, you would need to add a tee with a valve in the middle of the line from the master to the slave. You could hook up a vacuum pump at that point and pull the line down (which hopefully can hold the negative pressure). A couple valves would let you seal off the vacuum and connect a fluid supply to refill the system. You would really have to watch out for air pockets in the plumbing since there isn't much volume in all the lines. But if it works, it might be a good way to get the air out of the master lines too.

If you get something that works, post some pictures for us. I expect you will soon be changing the slave though.

I bleed mine that way....but use the bleeder also..

It can be done and no it wont collapse the hose and no its not on wrong side..if you apply vacuum to the hose it will suck all the air out..

I use a syringe connected to that line..I open the valve run a hose up thro the floor and hang a bottle off the steering wheel and flush the system out by applying pressure to the syringe. .then close the bleeder..apply vacuum using the syringe(hold for a bit and if you want tap on the lines and MC) and it sucks any remaining air out....never need to press the clutch at all and one person can do it...works EVERY time...

Syringe from walmart

FB_IMG_1409345718592_zpsoibpsd3m.jpg


Best bleeding kit around....trust me it works..

FB_IMG_1409345391798_zpseotcqsiw.jpg
 






So if I understand your procedure ...

- You are starting out by using the bleeder screw and pressure bleeding the system out that way. There will be essentially no air left in the system at that point, but the OP doesn't have that option.
- You are applying a tiny amount of vacuum with the syringe. That's different than the vacuum and refill procedure I was talking about (like vacuum filling a cooling system).
- Using a syringe from the top to pull significant air out of a slave is going to result in it getting stuck in the bends over the frame rail. You don't have a problem with that because you don't have a lot of air in there because you started by pressure bleeding out the bleeder valve.

If you could remount the master to straighten out the master-to-slave tubing (as in bench bleeding the master) while still connected to the slave, you could just about get the bubbles to come out on their own without any other help. With the air caught in the high point you can push or pull on it all day and the air will stay right there.
 






So if I understand your procedure ...

- You are starting out by using the bleeder screw and pressure bleeding the system out that way. There will be essentially no air left in the system at that point, but the OP doesn't have that option.
- You are applying a tiny amount of vacuum with the syringe. That's different than the vacuum and refill procedure I was talking about (like vacuum filling a cooling system).
- Using a syringe from the top to pull significant air out of a slave is going to result in it getting stuck in the bends over the frame rail. You don't have a problem with that because you don't have a lot of air in there because you started by pressure bleeding out the bleeder valve.

If you could remount the master to straighten out the master-to-slave tubing (as in bench bleeding the master) while still connected to the slave, you could just about get the bubbles to come out on their own without any other help. With the air caught in the high point you can push or pull on it all day and the air will stay right there.
correct. .still think a vacuum would pull air out no matter how many bends..just may need to tap on the lines or leave the vacuum for longer time..unless it was just bone dry but think it would be worth a shot..
 






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