I need some help diagnosing what this is?

[Jacky12]

I have a 2010 Ford explorer XLT, it has 150k miles. A few weeks ago it started to jerk while driving. Like it would do it 4 or 5 times or until I let off the gas and then it would be drive normally again. Then it started to drop in rpm's in stop and go traffic (From 500ish down to 250 then back up to 500 within 2 or 3 seconds). When I start the car up it would jump up and down in rpms for about a minute then be fine and then when the car warmed up it would randomly do the same. I thought maybe a vacuum leak but both shops I took it to said there wasn't a leak. Now today I was driving to work and a check engine light came on??

So I have a p0455 code with half a tank of gas, rpms jump up and down while sitting at idle and it jerks or lunges while driving. I need help please.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Ok the p0455 code is going to be a seperate issue its not causing your problems. next thing we need to know is do you have the v6 or the v8? both engine can have the same symptoms but completely different fixes. also what maintaince has been done to the car specifically drivetrain related?

 

[Jacky12]

Ok the p0455 code is going to be a seperate issue its not causing your problems. next thing we need to know is do you have the v6 or the v8? both engine can have the same symptoms but completely different fixes. also what maintaince has been done to the car specifically drivetrain related?

v6 and no drivetrain maintenance within the last 50k miles or so. I have kept up with oil, trans fluid, and all other fluids according to the maintenance book that came with the car.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d stop driving it until you figure it out. My first guess would be you’re having a fuel delivery problem, or you have some sort of issue with your transmission.

 

[Mbrooks420]

After it warms up, you might want to look under to see if any of your cats are glowing.

 

[Jacky12]

I’d stop driving it until you figure it out. My first guess would be you’re having a fuel delivery problem, or you have some sort of issue with your transmission.

I assume its got something to do with my fuel delivery system also. But I'm not sure how to go about checking or anything like that. I dropped it off at my friends shop today so hes looking at it no charge thankfully.

 

[Rcflyer330]

It could alse be a misfire caused by plugs and wires. It is something to check along with fuel pressure. Hopefully the shop will figure out the problem. Let us know what they find.

 

[Jacky12]

It could alse be a misfire caused by plugs and wires. It is something to check along with fuel pressure. Hopefully the shop will figure out the problem. Let us know what they find.

I replaced my spark plugs and wires not to long after it all started happening. So I doubt its a misfire. I will report back when I know more.

 

[Jacky12]

So it turns out to be my ECM. so good news is that I have now know the problem... the bad news is I'm not sure where to get a new or refurbished?? EMC from. Ford has them on backorder/discontinued -haven't checked AutoZone or o'reillys yet though. How can I go about getting a new ECM? Don't they need to be like vin/mileage specific? Ugg a whole new problem to research lol.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

So it turns out to be my ECM. so good news is that I have now know the problem... the bad news is I'm not sure where to get a new or refurbished?? EMC from. Ford has them on backorder/discontinued -haven't checked AutoZone or o'reillys yet though. How can I go about getting a new ECM? Don't they need to be like vin/mileage specific? Ugg a whole new problem to research lol.

JY? if its just tied to pwoertrain, not sure if its tied to other systems

 

[07EddyB]

I take it that your friend with the shop diagnosed it as the ECM correct? I'm not sure if the 2010 has the same wiring issues as the earlier models but I would be closely inspecting all wiring before I dropped another ECM in it. I would probably also ask my friend how he came to that conclusion - it could range from he 'tested the ECM and it was bad' to 'I can't find a problem so that's probably what it is'.

 

[Jacky12]

I take it that your friend with the shop diagnosed it as the ECM correct? I'm not sure if the 2010 has the same wiring issues as the earlier models but I would be closely inspecting all wiring before I dropped another ECM in it. I would probably also ask my friend how he came to that conclusion - it could range from he 'tested the ECM and it was bad' to 'I can't find a problem so that's probably what it is'.

I pray that hes right lmao. its been checked out by 2 different shops both times they have came back to tell me "nothing wrong" when clearly something was. But yeah I trust him. I will definitely ask him to run me through his process though. But for now I have to find a ECM

 

[Supertech22]

Has anyone hooked up a scanner to it and driven it how you were driving when it happened? If they are just letting it idle it might not come back. It could be a random misfire that is not setting a code.

I recently had a coil pack go bad on my work van. It would run fine until the engine got warm and was driven for a while. Then it would start to misfire and got worse as I drove it. When the engine was cool everything was fine.

I have a scanner that can see the misfire info. Once the engine warmed up the misfires would start but only when driven at speed. Cylinder #1 misfire. Swapped coils to verify. Mine got bad enough before I could get to the store that the check engine light started flashing. NOT GOOD.

 

[Rod's Repair]

I have a 2010 Ford explorer XLT, it has 150k miles. A few weeks ago it started to jerk while driving. Like it would do it 4 or 5 times or until I let off the gas and then it would be drive normally again. Then it started to drop in rpm's in stop and go traffic (From 500ish down to 250 then back up to 500 within 2 or 3 seconds). When I start the car up it would jump up and down in rpms for about a minute then be fine and then when the car warmed up it would randomly do the same. I thought maybe a vacuum leak but both shops I took it to said there wasn't a leak. Now today I was driving to work and a check engine light came on??

So I have a p0455 code with half a tank of gas, rpms jump up and down while sitting at idle and it jerks or lunges while driving. I need help please.

I would still be looking towards the P0455 code. You can unplug and cap the EVAP hose (intake side) and see if it runs properly. If the valve isn't closing, it creates a large vacuum leak.

 

[1Neptune]

Be advised Ford no longer supplies ECM's other than so called reman's. Scanner Danner has had terrible luck getting an ECM that actually worked for 4th gen Explorer's . Apparently a ton of other tech's echo the same thing on Scanner Danner's website. Good luck with that.

 

[Jacky12]

Be advised Ford no longer supplies ECM's other than so called reman's. Scanner Danner has had terrible luck getting an ECM that actually worked for 4th gen Explorer's . Apparently a ton of other tech's echo the same thing on Scanner Danner's website. Good luck with that.

I have looked online and I have 2 options - grab one from the JY or use some sketchy service to get a remanufactured one. Do you know of any trusted services to get a remanufactured one?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

imo JY, its OE stuff, and 99% of the time the modules arent bad (i mean every X on the rosd has good modules) so imo JY unit... but if someone has another source, that may also be good!

 

[1Neptune]

Based on what I have been hearing about Reman and supposedly new after market, I'd go the JY route . Know that it won't be a plug and play operation exactly. Ford Tech Makulocal has an good video on YT about doing that.

 

[1Neptune]

My trusted source use to be Ford dealer, You think you're getting a good fresh unit and it set codes you never had before or you get the same problem back. The short of it is you end up chasing your tail going down one rabbit hole after another. After several exchanges and many hours and days later you MIGHT get one that works correctly. It"s a sad affair now getting good parts from anywhere now.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

yeah, im finding that at times, JY parts are if better quality, as every manufacturer has cut costs and a tad bit of quality for profits, and atbthe JY you know probably they work, as its not super common for that kind of thing to go bad, and someone had to drive on it fir years... also i swear these oil filters seem to deel smaller and smaller overtime