I need threads/tips on Clutch Replacement on a 4X4 SPORT | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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I need threads/tips on Clutch Replacement on a 4X4 SPORT

fast_dave

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Hey guys,

RE: 1998 Explorer Sport 4x4 w/ 4.0 OHV and 5 Speed Manual Transmission

I'm pretty sure that after 100,000 miles on my 1st replacement clutch, it is on the way out.

I do 50/50 city highway driving, and the factory original lasted 90,000 miles.

So, last night I ordered from Amazon:

Flywheel: LUK LFW155

Clutch: LUK 07-139

Slave Cylinder: LUK LSC003

Master Cylinder: LUK LMC346

The reason why I'm posting here is I need SPORT specific tips, as well as any threads, that deal with this subject (on this Forum as well as others and You Tube, etc...)

With your help. I plan to write and photograph the definitive thread on replacing a clutch on a 2nd Gen. Explorer Sport.

I have a two week vacation beginning this Friday, so I might possibly be starting the tear down this weekend.

Thanks in advance -
fast_dave
 



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fast_dave

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'98 Spt 4.0 OHV 5 spd 4x4
On a SPORT 4X4: Can the transfer case be separated BEFORE transmission removal?

Macgiobuin and Explodr94 - Thanks for the threads - lots of good info in them ;-)

OK - It's been established in many threads that the M5OD is a VERY heavy transmission, and a "proper" transmission jack is recommended.

For ease of removal, some people have recommended first separating & removing the Transfer Case from the Transmission.

With that said, APPARENTLY the SPORT 2 Door undercarriage layout presents some unusual problems when compared to the more common 4 Door layout.

Specifically, on the SPORT, I've read that the distance of the "rear/tail" of the Transfer Case to the "front" of the Gas Tank is very close.

And, if I read correctly, this makes it impossible to fully remove the Transfer Case from the Transmission.

If that is the situation, it would seem that on a SPORT 4x4, the only way to remove a Transfer Case from the Transmission is to first drop the gas tank.

Please comment, discuss, contribute to this ;-)
 






Macgiobuin

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As I recall, I took out the rear drive shaft, front driveshaft, trans crossmember, then with those parts out, I took out the transfer case (heavy, tricky) but with the fuel tank still in. Tricky because you can pull the transfer case back about 1/2" or so to release it from the mounting studs, then you can spin the transfer case counterclockwise 90 degrees or so and then it slides right out.
 






imp

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For ease of removal, some people have recommended first separating & removing the Transfer Case from the Transmission.

This is an ABSOLUTE! Take out the TC first. imp
 






fast_dave

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For ease of removal, some people have recommended first separating & removing the Transfer Case from the Transmission.

This is an ABSOLUTE! Take out the TC first. imp

Thanks for the tip!

Yeah - The reason for my post is I'm just trying to confirm that this is possible on the SPORT model (specifically) without dropping the gas tank.

Apparently the Transfer Case has to be pulled out a bit before it fully disconnects from the transmission, and (I've read on one post) that there can be an interference issue with the gas tank.

The poster went on to say that there differences in clearance (transfer case to gas tank) between a 2 door SPORT and a "regular" 4 door Ex.

Any views on this subject are welcome! :)
 






Turdle

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Threads merged, and cleanup. One thread per topic helps others keep up.

Loosening the gas tank strap, and moving the front gas tank bracket might be all that is needed.
 






ifergusson

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On my 97 Sport I removed the transfer case bolts and let it rotate on the output shaft before pulling it off.Instead of using a transmission jack I welded a couple of pieces of flat strap into a V shape with a base and attached it to the saddle of my floor jack as the transmission is oval and tended to easily fall off a regular floor jack saddle.I find a couple of ratchet tie downs are handy as you can attach them to the frame and use them to lift the transmission or transfer case high enough to get the jack under it.They are also useful as a safety device if you position them to catch the transmission if it falls off the jack so it can't hit the floor or yourself.
 






fast_dave

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Just wanted to update this thread with a "full circle" reply as to what path I took.

For a variety of reasons, I took an easier path forward.

First, I wound up ordering all of the necessary parts myself (100% LUK brand),

Second, I had a professional transmission shop perform the install of all the parts, over a 4 day period in between his other jobs, for a negotiated price of $500

All is now well ;-)
 






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