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I think it finally died

you can get the same price new from whitebear in Minesota. That's when I ordered all my OEM parts. Even with shipping to Canada it came close to 1/3 less than local.

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/

wow!!! these are great prices. This link is a keeper!! I'm asking my buddy who woks for VW to see if he can get a dealer discount buying direct from Ford. If he gets a better deal, the parts arrive either same or next day.
 



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As for chains, gears and guides, if you need them rock auto has a killer deal on the Cloyes timing kit. It comes with all the gears now, not just the cam gears. It would have saved me a couple hundred if they had it when I did mine. I had to buy all the secondary gears from ford.
 






Got an update guys....

I had about an hour of free time today, took off the top and got to the driver side valve cover. The guide on this chain is smoked and chain is straight hanging. I also noticed that this guide had a metal lining, which is all familiar looking to what was in the oil pan. This also aligns with what was said earlier in this post "if front chain guide is not blocking an oil path hole, then there is no oil pressure". The tensioner side of the chain is very tight, so I'm assuming this is the reason that the chain hasn't skipped timing till now.

I'll try to get into the passenger side valve cover tomorrow and by some crazy chance, the rear chain is okay, since I don't need to pull the motor for the front chain.

Until then, here are some pics...

dr-valvecover1.jpg


dr-valvecover2.jpg


dr-valvecover3.jpg


dr-valvecover4.jpg


Short video clip of the chain slack

Looking at the pics now, they look kinda crappy. I'll take more pics tomorrow if I get to the pass side valve cover.

Last edit, I promise... I'm thinking I should try and take the shop to small claims court. The miles on the truck from the time the chains were changed to now are insignificant to destroy these guides I'm thinking its under 500 miles.
 






Update:

I finally got to the passenger side valve cover. Took me an hour to pull it off once I unscrewed everything due to the EGR sitting right on top of the valve cover and I didn't know what size wrench I need. Finally figured out that the nut on the EGR is 1-1/16"

Got the passenger cover off and long and behold....... The chain and guide look perfect, new and undamaged. I wonder if the front just somehow failed on its own? The tensioner in the front is tight and the chain on the tensioner side is also tight. The other side is the one that is completely loose and guide is missing.

My next task is to pull all the front items off to get the timing cover off and see if anything else in the front was affected.

Is it really possible that the low oil pressure is due to the failed guide as mentioned before? Also, how can the guide just fall apart like that? Should I change out the oil pump if I pull the trigger on changing the front chain and anything else associated with front timing chain cover?

Here are some pics as always:
ps-valvecover1.jpg

ps-valvecover2.jpg

ps-valvecover3.jpg

ps-valvecover4.jpg

ps-valvecover5.jpg
 






I've fixed the pics of the driver side valve cover and here are a few more of the driver side.

dr-valvecover5.jpg

dr-valvecover6.jpg

dr-valvecover7.jpg

dr-valvecover8.jpg
 






cassette guide

The cassette guide on the passenger side looks good but to be sure pull upward on the guide top (traction side) to make sure it isn't broken at the base.
RearCstPiece.jpg

It should only move about 1/8 inch upward. You can also try to deflect it sideways (away from the chain) with your finger or screw driver.
RCssttV.jpg


You have to remove the block cradle to replace the oil pump. But it isn't necessary to remove the block cradle to replace the front cassette. Since you've already removed the oil pan, cleaned out the oil pick up screen and reinstalled the pan you could just assume that the low oil pressure was due to the screen being clogged. I know of only one member (in Europe) that had a piece of the front cassette guide trapped in the oil passage to the oil pressure switch.
JackKeep.jpg

The arrow indicates the port in the passage that is blocked closed when the primary chain guide is installed.
Exp019.jpg


The following thread may help with removing the timing cover: SOHC V6 Primary chain tensioner replacement
 






The cassette guide on the passenger side looks good but to be sure pull upward on the guide top (traction side) to make sure it isn't broken at the base.
View attachment 85340
It should only move about 1/8 inch upward. You can also try to deflect it sideways (away from the chain) with your finger or screw driver.
View attachment 85341

You have to remove the block cradle to replace the oil pump. But it isn't necessary to remove the block cradle to replace the front cassette. Since you've already removed the oil pan, cleaned out the oil pick up screen and reinstalled the pan you could just assume that the low oil pressure was due to the screen being clogged. I know of only one member (in Europe) that had a piece of the front cassette guide trapped in the oil passage to the oil pressure switch.
View attachment 85342
The arrow indicates the port in the passage that is blocked closed when the primary chain guide is installed.
View attachment 85343

The following thread may help with removing the timing cover: SOHC V6 Primary chain tensioner replacement

Update:

Was going to tear into the motor from the front, went to Autozone to rent tools and the inexperienced sales rep gave me the wrong tools and like a fool, i didn't bother looking until i got to the house. Anyhow, looks like this is going on the back burner for a few weeks as I have a trip planned for next week, then a few things after that. I'll keep this updated.
 






good luck
keep us posted.
 






Update:

I'm back on track taking things apart. Finally AutoZone gave me the correct wrenches to take off the fan clutch, (36mm and 57mm). Got the water pump off and drained coolant. I'm not able to take off the bolt holding the harmonic balancer, assuming I need to pull out the big stuff, like the impact wrench. Hopefully will have the timing cover off before the weekend.

I also double checked the rear chain to see if there is any movement on the guide as was mentioned by someone. The rear cassette is totally solid, no movement.
 






removing front cassette

Around 2004 Ford changed the head or block castings (or both) making it very difficult to remove or install the front cassette with the head in place. However, eventually Ford changed the pivot pin from being pressed in to a removable pin with a keeper.
LftGuide.jpg

7U3Z-6A257-A.jpg

At least one member was able to remove the keeper and pin to disassemble the guide assembly and then reassemble the two halves (insert the pin and keeper) after dropping the halves into position. This is not a job for a fumble fingers guy but avoids having to remove the head.
 






Update:

I'm back on track taking things apart. Finally AutoZone gave me the correct wrenches to take off the fan clutch, (36mm and 57mm). Got the water pump off and drained coolant. I'm not able to take off the bolt holding the harmonic balancer, assuming I need to pull out the big stuff, like the impact wrench. Hopefully will have the timing cover off before the weekend.

Nice big breaker bar will clean that right up for ya. Never hurts to have one around anyway. Especially for those nasty bolts.
 






Nice big breaker bar will clean that right up for ya. Never hurts to have one around anyway. Especially for those nasty bolts.

I tried my breaker bar, but the motor turns when i turn it. Is it reverse thread? I don't think so.....
 






It isn't LHT. It was easier for me because I just chained the flex plate because the engine was out. Gotta find some way to stop it from turning over. I wonder if you put the plugs back in, if there would be enough compression to hold it? Other option, pull the starter and jam something in the flex plate from there to stop it from turning.
 






It isn't LHT. It was easier for me because I just chained the flex plate because the engine was out. Gotta find some way to stop it from turning over. I wonders my only bet now. if you put the plugs back in, if there would be enough compression to hold it? Other option, pull the starter and jam something in the flex plate from there to stop it from turning.

I tried using one of these crowbar type tools used for separating ball joints, bushings and such. Stuck the tip of it in the groves of the harmonic balancer. No good and was afraid to damage the groves.

It's been raining lately so I haven't touched it since. I think the impact gun might do it. That's my only hope now.
 






balancer tools

Most members use an impact wrench. Some members use a chain or strap wrench to hold the balancer from rotating. Some members use a breaker bar and then bump the starter motor. A couple members have used a board with holes drilled for the puller bolts to attach the board and a hole for the socket connected to a breaker bar: Harmonic Balancer Removal posts 21 & 23.
 






Most members use an impact wrench. Some members use a chain or strap wrench to hold the balancer from rotating. Some members use a breaker bar and then bump the starter motor. A couple members have used a board with holes drilled for the puller bolts to attach the board and a hole for the socket connected to a breaker bar: Harmonic Balancer Removal posts 21 & 23.

Thanks. The easiest method was the crew driver in the spark plug hole, though seems dangerous, no?
 












That's why I didn't mention it.

Got the center bolt out using air gun, real easy and fit right in without taking the radiator out.

However, when I went to use the harmonic puller, the bolts were too short, so I had to buy longer ones at home depot. All good, except when I went to pull the balancer. The bolts broke inside.

I'm a bit too fed up with this truck and motor to say the least. Dropped by a few shops to get labor quotes. One said $1300 labor, no warranty. Another said 3month warranty if he buys motor and installs and labor is $55/hr. Have to call him tomorrow so he can check hours required for motor swap. Anyone know the shop hours required for the swap? I want to make sure they don't pull a fast one on me. At least save a few $ here. Thinking if the price is close enough, just have the app find the motor.
 






standard puller

The standard balancer puller doesn't work with the SOHC V6 because the diameter of the puller center bolt is greater than the inner diameter of the balancer. Therefore the puller bolt is pushing against the balancer instead of the crankshaft so the side bolts break. There are several posts on the forum about how to pull the balancer. I'm sorry that you're having so many problems. The SOHC V6 is a unique engine to work on. Lots of special tools and knowledge required.
 



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I was quoted 2 grand labour just to swap the engine up here. 8 hour job just for removal. gaskets and parts on top of that. You are getting a steal of a deal. as for the harmonic balancer, I left the bolt in loose and used it for leverage when I did mine. Worked great.
 






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