Ideas For My Cage | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Ideas For My Cage

Burns

Elite Explorer
Moderator Emeritus
Joined
October 20, 2004
Messages
8,984
Reaction score
37
City, State
Pulaski, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer/2002 F-250
I have been building and wheeling my explorer for the last few years. It is time that i take time from the mods to do on that i hope i never have to use. I just sold my old al4d auto tranny out of the explorer and it is going to support the cost of a roll cage. I am in the process of planning this out so i can get as much done when i get started working.

I have been doing my reading.

California cage building party thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181552&highlight=roll+cage+party

Installing a cage into DWD's Explorer(old thread but good info)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136119&highlight=roll+cage

Cage Building Overview at TRS:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rollcage.htm

Chop saw notching 101 (With pictures):
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456800

Now here are my questions:

1. When i go to notch the tubes should i go ahead and get a tube Tube Notcher or should i just go with the Chop saw notching?

2. Should i go ahead and use all 1.75" tubing with a .120 wall or will the weight be a big factor here?

I plan on patterning after DWD's cage.

Please give me any info you have.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





1. Yes buy the notcher. but remember to think it over a few times before cutting. measure twice, cut once:thumbsup:

2. We used 1.75 for the "B" and "C" pillers. The rest is all 1.50. Well all but my 1.25 dash bar:rolleyes:

I'll see if I can get all the numbers from Jefe and post them up. He had them all mesured out and written down. That way you could just bend it all up and weld it in ;)
 






1. Yes buy the notcher. but remember to think it over a few times before cutting. measure twice, cut once:thumbsup:

2. We used 1.75 for the "B" and "C" pillers. The rest is all 1.50. Well all but my 1.25 dash bar:rolleyes:

I'll see if I can get all the numbers from Jefe and post them up. He had them all mesured out and written down. That way you could just bend it all up and weld it in ;)

Ok that would be great. I would love to have ylls measurements. I can compare that to what i have from DWD's thread that was done by tdavis i think.

On the tube notcher i might have a friend with one. He has the bender and everything so i might luck up there.

Um...So do you think that using the 1.75 everywhere will be that much more?
 






Use whatever size (outer diameter) tube that fits what you're building and its design. A cage doesnt really weigh that much, and the weight difference between 1.5 and 1.75 tubing is maybe a few pounds. :)
 






Tha weight comes with tubing type, and wall thickness. mine is gonna be pretty heavy, because the rules say my main hoop and supports have to be 2 in O.D.x.120 wall, and i'm using 4130. but mild steel 1.75 x.90 will build a great cage that will keep you alive, and won't weigh that much....
 






we used .120 wall mild steel. it 's good for a roll or two, and by them you'll be 86ing the body anyway:rolleyes:

The reason why we used 1.75 on the main hoops and 1.50 on the reast is because we were trying to push the cage out of the way as much as possiable. We really shaped our to the insides of the truck. you will not find a tighter cage.;)
 






Ok im gonna just go all 1.75

If its a little tight oh well.
 






Ok well this is going to be stopped for a few weeks. Just enough time to get all the materials. I am still calling on the tube tomm. Decided to go with all 1.75 .120 wall.

We just had 1 of out 4 explorers go down. We only have three taged and with insurance so it will be cheaper to fix the one that is down. My moms tranny started to slip in 2nd so we will not let her drive it any more. Me and dad got the tranny out and have already tore into it. The first band was worn a little but the fluid was dark. It was changed with less than 2000 miles and it alread black. My dad will be having shoulder surgery tomm so this rebuild is up to me. The cage can come later. I got to get here going with in two weeks.

I would still like to get all tips and info you can give me tho.
 






if you do all 1.75, jefe mesurements will only help you a bit. Using 1.5 for the "A" pillars made so we could run the cage on the side of the dash, instead of infront of it.;)
 






Well i can use everything that yll did except the "A" pillar measurments. I was sitting in it today thinking how i wanted to run it and i decided that i am going to run it infront of the dash.

Not totally worried about the room. I have the seat all the way forward now and if i need i can notch it back a few. Also if i rub the cage getting in thats ok with me.
 






Hey burns I'm going to fallow this thread with you very closely. I am in the planning stages of my cage also so I need a ton of ideas. I also plan on using all 1.75" .120 wall mild steal. I ended up chopping my roof of so my design will be a little different then yours. Anyways, hopefully we can help eachother out.
 






My biggest reason for not running it front of the dash, is I was worried about a dash bulb burning out, and never being able to replace it:(
 






dash bulb burning out????


Uh im not following you there.
 






The lights behind the dash. for your tach, speedo etc....
 






Ah well thats not gonna be a prob with my first gen. Thought so.

Im editing a photo now to show what i plan on doing for the front around the dash.

Oh and colindo put in any idea you have. I need as much ideas as i can get.
 












Lines are not striaght and true but you can follow what im thinking. Im working on another version now.
Try-One.jpg



Also thanks the the quote from Froader i just noticed that he said he ended up chopping the roof. Pic Also
 












I don't think you'll need all those tubes around the glovebox. just go down each side, across the dash, and bring one up the middle of the windshield. that's a major flex point in a rollover....
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





email me that picture without the lines will you?
 






Back
Top