- Joined
- January 26, 2004
- Messages
- 6,113
- Reaction score
- 22
- City, State
- Mechanicsville, Virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2004 Acura TL
Recently, I was having a rough idle and one time a bad stumble that I thought was going to cut off on me. I have cleaned my IAC once, but not really that well. So, after awhile of dealing with it - I decided to op out for a new one. The service writer at my shop told me that NAPA didn't make a IAC motor (or reman. them), so I had to get a Ford Motorcraft Replacement. He also got me a gasket, but I soon realized that there isn't a need of one.
Part Numbers:
F7UZ-9F670-AB - $3.69
YU3Z-9F715-AA - $81.66
EST Time: 10 minutes/
all prices are from Fast Parts Network (please visit our sponsors!!)
Removal:
First off, you will need a 8mm and a 7mm socket (with a small extention or deep well might do).
This is what you'll see when you pop the hood:
You will need to remove the engine cover via 4 small 7mm bolts. Then remove the cruise control cable mount at the top of the engine cover. This will allow you to remove the cover and have full access to the IAC Valve/Motor.
Above is a picture of the IAC Valve. To remove the valve disconnect the connector (push-in type) and then remove the two 8mm bolts.
Once the valve is removed you will see an area like this. You can clean this if you would like with some carb/throttle cleaner or some brake clean. Also, if you notice - this engine (4.0L SOHC) has a re-useable gasket for the IAC. So I will not need the other gasket.
Old Vs. New:
Installation:
To install the IAC Valve, it is basically a reverse procedure of the removal steps (just like in any other manual). However, be careful not to tighten the IAC Valve down too tight. Itis aluminum, just like some thermostat housings; which can break when put in a bind.
The new one installed:
Verdict:
I have not yet to notice a difference in idle, but the PCM regulates the idle via IAC Valve, so hopefully in a few days I'll notice a little smoother idle. Otherwise, I will hook up the scanner and look at misfire count and look at some other vitals. My truck has just hit 80K and this is the first IAC Valve on it. Fords are known for IAC Valves going bad.
-Drew
PS - To learn tips and tricks of the trade, fixes, and more visit the Technician Corner inside this site!!
Part Numbers:
F7UZ-9F670-AB - $3.69
YU3Z-9F715-AA - $81.66
EST Time: 10 minutes/
all prices are from Fast Parts Network (please visit our sponsors!!)
Removal:
First off, you will need a 8mm and a 7mm socket (with a small extention or deep well might do).
This is what you'll see when you pop the hood:
You will need to remove the engine cover via 4 small 7mm bolts. Then remove the cruise control cable mount at the top of the engine cover. This will allow you to remove the cover and have full access to the IAC Valve/Motor.
Above is a picture of the IAC Valve. To remove the valve disconnect the connector (push-in type) and then remove the two 8mm bolts.
Once the valve is removed you will see an area like this. You can clean this if you would like with some carb/throttle cleaner or some brake clean. Also, if you notice - this engine (4.0L SOHC) has a re-useable gasket for the IAC. So I will not need the other gasket.
Old Vs. New:
Installation:
To install the IAC Valve, it is basically a reverse procedure of the removal steps (just like in any other manual). However, be careful not to tighten the IAC Valve down too tight. Itis aluminum, just like some thermostat housings; which can break when put in a bind.
The new one installed:
Verdict:
I have not yet to notice a difference in idle, but the PCM regulates the idle via IAC Valve, so hopefully in a few days I'll notice a little smoother idle. Otherwise, I will hook up the scanner and look at misfire count and look at some other vitals. My truck has just hit 80K and this is the first IAC Valve on it. Fords are known for IAC Valves going bad.
-Drew
PS - To learn tips and tricks of the trade, fixes, and more visit the Technician Corner inside this site!!
thanks
