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Idler pulley

EK91YJ

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'96 Explorer
What is the part number for the bearing for the idler pulley?
 



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What is the part number for the bearing for the idler pulley?

just change the whole pulley, the bearing will probably cost you more! Change your tensioner pulley too, they are known to break.
 






Thanks for the reply! I will replace the whole thing.
 






how do you know (symptoms) when it's time to change the idler pulley?
 






how do you know (symptoms) when it's time to change the idler pulley?

usually when you know you will be calling a tow truck. They probably make some noise for a while before they go. They will often feel rough and inhibited when you spin them. They usually fail catastrophically.

Best thing is to change them on these trucks if they are over 10yrs old/100K miles. Same for the tensioner pulley, just take off the assembly and swap the pulley.
 






Argh!

My 98 has 140K on the clock... that pulley is coming out! ASAP

What's a good brand to use for the idler and belt tensioner? Looks like Goodyear makes the bet tensioner. I dont want to get a Duralast idler pulley, do I?
 






Argh!

My 98 has 140K on the clock... that pulley is coming out! ASAP

What's a good brand to use for the idler and belt tensioner? Looks like Goodyear makes the bet tensioner. I dont want to get a Duralast idler pulley, do I?



Gates, Dayco or Motorcraft. Cant hurt to call a discount online dealer. Goodyear is probably ok. Anything else..you just dont know
 






Its was sqealing!

Dang!

Just started to make some terrible noises from the idler (117K).
Good thing it was posted earlier... thanks guys!

Replaced the belt (Gatorback), idler, and tensioner for $100 for cost of parts.

Will owe my neignbor 2 racks of smoked racks of ribs!:D:D
 






I agree with replacing the whole pulley. I just changed mying after the pulley came apart and cut the serpentine belt.....
 






Sunny Sunday, good day for a idler and tensioner. The idler pulley has this shim/washer between the pulley and the block. Seems to me that this creates some play in the pulley which I noticed while truck was idling. Bolt is tight as can be. Is there a trick to tightening up that shim/washer prior to installation of the new pulley?

I didn't get to the tensioner because the idler pulley had me scratching my head.
 






The play is a little back and forth motion, along the bolt. Maybe a few millimeters.
 






I've been slapping grease in these bearings for years. The thing you really need to worry about is the tensioner. If it looks a little off angle, white plastic will be more visible on one side, it needs to be replaced. Problem seems to happen after 100K. A really shabby design compared to first gen.
 






So the new idle pulley shimmy is nothing to worry about? I'm at 140k, and I'm replacing original parts here.

I will say, that there was no visible or audible sign of malfunction with the original parts. I'm replacing them strictly as a precaution. The original belt tensioner still has a lot of spring left in it. I had to use a lot of strength and body weight to push it down to release the belt. Tensioner is still very snappy.
 






The springs never wear out, it is he rotating surface they mount on. I went remove mine for some other maintenance reason. When I lossened up the bolt a few turns the whole assembly flew apart. The metal section that retains the arm is very thin and wears through.
 






Mechanic called, said I installed the idler pulley correctly. A few millimeters of play is within spec (which surprises me). They also put in the belt tensioner that I supplied.

The power steering whine is still there. Replacing the belt and pulleys didn't reduce the noise. They said $300 for a new pump and system flush. I actually think that's a pretty good price for this job. I hate working with fluids - I always take a bath. I will hold off on that job for a few weeks though.

I have a big 500+ mile trip coming up for Memorial Day weekend. They said the truck is fine and is good to go. :cool:
 






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