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If it’s not one effing thing...

intheric

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Ok. So. Here’s what I’ve had done so far.

Replaced the cat converter, the tail pipe and muffler and the sensor that goes with that (down air?). Had a full tune up done. Also the pressure feedback sensor and the tubes (I did that myself once i figured how to get these man hands to attach the hoses to the metal stem things in such a tight space). And a new battery.

Took the explorer on a drive tonight to pick up a package from a friends. Started a bit weird but seemed to level out. I let it sit for a few seconds just to see if it would act funny. Let all the new parts settle in.

I’m cruising down the road and come to a light. It starts to sputter some but the light turns green and I accelerate and start thinking about all the crap that’s going to go wrong now after spending a bunch of money on the parts. I come to another light and it’s acting like it wants to die. So I read somewhere on here to put it in neutral and slightly give it some gas. Lite turns and I put it in drive and make a left turn. It wants to accelerate. But not so much. I think to myself “did they change the oil? The transmission fluid like I asked. ??. I paid 125 for a tune up but not sure if that included fluids”.

Feeling like it wants to die, I pull into a parking lot and the trucks coasts as I’m barely pressing the pedal. Nothing has cut off. Power steering is still working. All the lights are on. Engine light comes on. Then goes off. I park and shut it down. Let it sit for a few minutes. Starts back up easily. Into drive. It seems ok. Accelerates ok. Another red light. Into neutral. It’s idling ok. No need to press the gas. light changes. Little hesitant. I feel like I have to lift my foot off the pedal slightly for it to change gears and get more speed. It’s only 40 mph so none of that. Maybe it needs an oil change. This happened once when I got it.

so from there to the house it was fine. It was only 35 on the road. Keeping my foot even on the pedal to maintain 35 it felt like it was sputtering.

On the way back home it cut off again twice at the light. I did the neutral thing again. I then asked my dad for green lights all the way home, which I got ☺

got back home and when I came to a stop it did its “I’m gonna cut off again just kidding thing” the engine light came off for a second or two. Then I shut it down for the night.

I did notice when I got out, there was a weird sound. Say like a finger flicking a metal drum type sound. At some point I smelt something that reminded me of maple syrup (weird). I didn’t know if because of all the new parts, there’s a new part smell that needs to be driven off?

I got a wild hair the other day and bought a engine code reader from amazon. Veepack OBDCheck Ble. I tried messing with it but I was at my wits end and didn’t have the patience to set it up.

any takers? You guys have been a tremendous help so far. Thing is, this car ran perfectly before all this happened. hopefully it’s something as easy as an oil and transmission fluid change. Maybe some other sensors. When I get the code reader set up I’ll post the findings. Gotta research what app works best with it.

thanks again!
 


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gmanpaint

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Best to wait for the codes, as it could be a number of things from what your describing.

Check your fluids in the meantime. There is an oil pressure gauge and a warning light that comes on If you had a bad leak, or was extremely low. That wouldn't be causing hesitation.

Plugs and wires, fluid top off, and a general inspection is all I would assume you got for 125 bucks.
 




donalds

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Check y fuel pressure as well
 




Mbrooks420

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An oil change shouldn’t effect runability. The place to start is with the codes as suggested above.
 




koda2000

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Gotta have the codes. If the check engine light has been coming on the ECU is unhappy about something. The codes will point you in a direction of what to look at. If it were me experiencing your issue the first thing than would come to mind might be... did the put they plug wire on correctly? In my experience when you have a vehicle that was working okay and you've work on it and experience a problem, the last thing that was touched is likely where you f'd up.

Not changing your engine oil or trans fluid would not create drive-ability problems. If you paid a mechanic only $125 for a "tune up" I doubt they did fluids or even plug wires, but what does your receipt say they did/charged you for?

If I do a full tune-up and engine/trans service myself, it would cost me over $125 w/no labor...
- Spark plugs around $5-7 a piece V6 or V8? say $36-$42
- Plug wires $60-$90
- 5 Qts engine oil $20-$30 depending on type used
- Oil filter $4-
- 5 Qts Mercon V trans fluid $40 (enough for a pan drop and filter change only)
- Trans filter $25

That comes to around $200 right there not including labor costs.

Other things I'd do on a full service...
- Cooling system flush
- Replace thermostat
- Check/replace serpentine belt/hoses as necessary
- Rear diff service (plus a front diff service if 4WD/AWD)
- Power fluid steering flush
- Brake fluid flush
 




intheric

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Ok. Hobbled out to the truck and pulled these codes off. Now there is a cable underneath in the back that’s been cut and disconnected but everyone says it’s for an emissions test. But the other one looks like the culprit
 

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intheric

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Best to wait for the codes, as it could be a number of things from what your describing.

Check your fluids in the meantime. There is an oil pressure gauge and a warning light that comes on If you had a bad leak, or was extremely low. That wouldn't be causing hesitation.

Plugs and wires, fluid top off, and a general inspection is all I would assume you got for 125 bucks.
Got the codes pulled.
 

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gmanpaint

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Cool, now you have somewhere to start researching.

The oxygen sensors will mess with the engine if not working, bad, etc... do the free thing first, and make sure they are all plugged in. Check the wires to make sure they aren't cut or burnt.

If they are all plugged up correctly, and found in good condition (wires), then you need to see why your running rich. Intake leak can cause a lean code on both banks. baby steps, baby steps.

IAC might be plugged up as well. Check that too.
 




Turdle

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Under the hood is a fuse panel with relays and fuses of various sizes. Mini fuse #13 15 a is blown, would be my guess.
 








intheric

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Best to wait for the codes, as it could be a number of things from what your describing.

Check your fluids in the meantime. There is an oil pressure gauge and a warning light that comes on If you had a bad leak, or was extremely low. That wouldn't be causing hesitation.

Plugs and wires, fluid top off, and a general inspection is all I would assume you got for 125 bucks.
I was toying around with the code reader today and using other apps and one here pulled some more codes then th
Cool, now you have somewhere to start researching.

The oxygen sensors will mess with the engine if not working, bad, etc... do the free thing first, and make sure they are all plugged in. Check the wires to make sure they aren't cut or burnt.

If they are all plugged up correctly, and found in good condition (wires), then you need to see why your running rich. Intake leak can cause a lean code on both banks. baby steps, baby steps.

IAC might be plugged up as well. Check that too.
I was toying around with code reader today using other apps that can be used with it. This one app for fords pulled more codes then the last one. Any more insight to what’s going on. This app goes into more explanations to of what’s wrong and why but that would be a hundred screen shots. Here’s the overview. I
 

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intheric

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Thought I’d be able to attach a video but here’s some screen caps. I pulled the part off. Nothing came out when I shook it. Plugged in good and tight. Nice snap.
 

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donalds

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How does one do that?
Sorry man I just had a Windom tooth extracted the hard way I'm just a little drug up now I'll try to explain tomorrow or someone else will sorry
 




intheric

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Sorry man I just had a Windom tooth extracted the hard way I'm just a little drug up now I'll try to explain tomorrow or someone else will sorry
Hey. No worries. I managed to some how throw my back out at work using the copy machine. So I’m in no rush right now. Hope you feel better soon!
 




Sager

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Clean the idle air sensor.


Ok. Hobbled out to the truck and pulled these codes off. Now there is a cable underneath in the back that’s been cut and disconnected but everyone says it’s for an emissions test. But the other one looks like the culprit
 




allmyEXes

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@donalds Windom tooth... must be some good drugs...lol
 




intheric

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Clean the idle air sensor.
What’s good to clean something like that out. I’ll probably have to go to the parts store anyway so I was thinking of just replacing it. 44 bucks for a new part doesn’t seem that bad, and it’s easier for me to figure out if I didn’t clean it right, or if it’s something else. Thank you though!
 

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donalds

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@donalds Windom tooth... must be some good drugs...lol
Had to cut my gums then cut the tooth in half to get it out because the roots were wrapped around jaw bone finally scrape off the jaw bone and stiches

Because of my epilepsy he chose to use nothing but novocaine
which sux
 




allmyEXes

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OMG! You know I was just ribbing you. Nothing but nicotine? A couple of shots of jack maybe. Can you not be put under because of the epilepsy?
I have been hesitant to visit the Dentist because of my stroke.
Forgive me for hijacking
 


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donalds

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OMG! You know I was just ribbing you. Nothing but nicotine? A couple of shots of jack maybe. Can you not be put under because of the epilepsy?
I have been hesitant to visit the Dentist because of my stroke.
Forgive me for hijacking
Forgive me for hijacking as well
novocaine I wish I could have nicotine lol

yea the epilepsy worried him a bit just because of the frequency of my seizures

sorry for the bold print
 




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