If it’s not one effing thing...

[intheric]

Clean the idle air sensor.

I went ahead and replaced this valve. I also ran some seafoam thru the system. The truck runs great. It’s still a little off when I start it. But when I put it into gear it smooths out. I’ve driven it around the neighborhood and it’s fine. No stalls when I stop or slow down. But when I get back home and drive up the drive way to my spot, it wants to conk out. That was before I replaced it tho.

ive run the Code reader again and get the same 3 codes. Do I need clear these out And try it again?

 

[allmyEXes]

How many miles are on your truck? By the way, When my IAC connector was unplugged it wouldn't run at all.
ADDED-Is that the 4.0 SOHC?

 

[MrQ]

Surprised no one has mentioned this... vacuum leak. Grab a can of starter fluid and spray it around the upper and lower intake and vacuum lines/tree. If the engine speeds up or bogs down, you have found your leak.

If you have a large enough vacuum leak the IAC cannot control the idle as there is un-metered air getting in from somewhere else, thus your last pending code.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Feel better soon Donalds.

 

[intheric]

How many miles are on your truck? By the way, When my IAC connector was unplugged it wouldn't run at all.
ADDED-Is that the 4.0 SOHC?

I believe so.

 

[intheric]

I believe so.

As for the mileage it’s up there. 250 plus. Can’t think off the top of my head. Just home from work and it’s raining. I’m gonna take it out again tonight and put some fresh gas in it. I last filled up right before quarantine not knowing I’d never drive again for 2 months

 

[intheric]

Surprised no one has mentioned this... vacuum leak. Grab a can of starter fluid and spray it around the upper and lower intake and vacuum lines/tree. If the engine speeds up or bogs down, you have found your leak.

If you have a large enough vacuum leak the IAC cannot control the idle as there is un-metered air getting in from somewhere else, thus your last pending code.

Ok. Ill give it a try when the weather lets up. Thanks for the tip

 

[intheric]

Surprised no one has mentioned this... vacuum leak. Grab a can of starter fluid and spray it around the upper and lower intake and vacuum lines/tree. If the engine speeds up or bogs down, you have found your leak.

If you have a large enough vacuum leak the IAC cannot control the idle as there is un-metered air getting in from somewhere else, thus your last pending code.

So I took it out for a drive outside the neighborhood. Ran great. Idled pretty good. No burps or anything. Figured I’d put some gas in since it’s been since March and it needed some. When leaving the gas station, and waiting for every idiot driver to stop running the red light so I could turn left, it just stalled. Started up and sputtered some and stalled. Again started it up and put it in neutral and then drive as I was clear to turn. Kinda hesitant on accelerating, then something kicked in and it started to run fine. Got home, drove up the drive way and it didn’t stall when I parked like before I put the seafoam. I let it sit in park and run to see what it would do. Idled fine. I saw my ODB reader and decided to run it again for any codes. Pushed it in and connected it to my phone. Then dropped my phone. In picking it up I managed to hit the clear codes button. Didn’t figure anything would happen but like clock work the car stopped running. Tried starting it up. Gave it some gas and it ran for like 10 more seconds, then stalled again. Tried it once more and it happed again. Did clearing the codes do something? The 3 codes from before don’t show up now. Didn’t try starting it again as I didn’t want to mess it up anymore

 

[allmyEXes]

Mine ran pretty bad before I replaced the upper and lower intake O-rings/gaskets.

 

[intheric]

Mine ran pretty bad before I replaced the upper and lower intake O-rings/gaskets.

I saw a YouTube video about that. Some videos are right on with the same truck and some are different years and I can’t match things up to check it out. I’ve looked at all the hoses and tubes that I can see and nothing looks cracked or broken. Guess I’m gonna need to take it back to the shop again. I’m pretty limited on knowledge of cars as it is. A few things I’ve done myself but can do only so much. Taking that part off to change them is well beyond my grasp! Thanks!

 

[allmyEXes]

Here are several options on the intake gaskets.
Click here>1997 4.0 SOHC parts

 

[intheric]

Mine ran pretty bad before I replaced the upper and lower intake O-rings/gaskets.

Went out to tinker with it some more after an hour or so. Def cooled down and it started up better then before. It didn’t stall. Let it run for a few min. Wondering if it’s something to do with a temp sensor? I’ve noticed the gauge on the top right goes all the way over when I start. I thought this was something to do when we pulled the cluster out and switched everything to LEDs.

 

[intheric]

Back at it again


I downloaded another app for the veepeak scanner for a second opinion (ODB2 expert for the veepeak ODBCheck BLE) to see if there’s anything else it can tell me. There’s something about a catalyst that comes up red. There’s no info for this app but red generally means not good to me. So having one converter replaced, could the other one be bad as well? The guy at the shop said there were 2 on the truck and in the back of my mind I wondered why wouldn’t you replace both, since the other one was so far gone he said it was glowing.

It started. No stalling. Idling funny. Drove it around the yard. Kinda wonky. Parked it. Didn’t stall. Let it run some. Ran the live data option on the car scanner pro app. Things seemed level. No ups or dips outside of revving the engine some.

still need to take it back to the shop but trying to learn what’s causing it to run this way as it didn’t before.

attached pic of screen shot and also the gauge that’s been flipping all the way over when you start.

 

[MrQ]

You are running rich; that kills cats faster than anything.

 

[410Fortune]

DID YOU EVER CHECK OR REPLACE YOUR 02 SENSORS?

the first page you posted up engine codes, 02 sensors are not switching...you need to address these codes before you can expect the truck to run properly.

1132 and 1532, those codes need to be addressed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL NEVER RUN PROPERLY without properly working 02 sensors......

So far I see you cleaned the IAC
Cleaning the IAC is not going to fix faulty oxygen sensors........
lack of switching = check your fuses like suggested earlier, you are checking any fuse that has to do with the HEGO (heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor)

 

[intheric]

DID YOU EVER CHECK OR REPLACE YOUR 02 SENSORS?

the first page you posted up engine codes, 02 sensors are not switching...you need to address these codes before you can expect the truck to run properly.

1132 and 1532, those codes need to be addressed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL NEVER RUN PROPERLY without properly working 02 sensors......

So far I see you cleaned the IAC
Cleaning the IAC is not going to fix faulty oxygen sensors........
lack of switching = check your fuses like suggested earlier, you are checking any fuse that has to do with the HEGO (heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor)

Thanks for the reply, I didn’t get a alert saying you responded till now.

as for the sensors, no, I didn’t replace them. But if it’s something easy I could do I can do that. There was one sensor the guy replaced with the catalytic converter but that was called a down air sensor or something like that.

where would these be located. I guess I could google it myself but sometimes I don’t have the best of luck lol! Appreciate you responding. I’ll let you know how it goes!!

 

[intheric]

DID YOU EVER CHECK OR REPLACE YOUR 02 SENSORS?

the first page you posted up engine codes, 02 sensors are not switching...you need to address these codes before you can expect the truck to run properly.

1132 and 1532, those codes need to be addressed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL NEVER RUN PROPERLY without properly working 02 sensors......

So far I see you cleaned the IAC
Cleaning the IAC is not going to fix faulty oxygen sensors........
lack of switching = check your fuses like suggested earlier, you are checking any fuse that has to do with the HEGO (heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor)

And I actually replaced the IAC myself.

while I have you. Apparently my explorer has 2 catalytic converters? I replaced the one under the passenger seat side but not the other one. Wouldn’t it be fair to say it would be better To replace both? If one was that bad off I couldn’t imagine the other being any better. I’ll try the O2 sensors first. I don’t mind doing preventative maintenance as I’m learning things about the car now.

 

[intheric]

DID YOU EVER CHECK OR REPLACE YOUR 02 SENSORS?

the first page you posted up engine codes, 02 sensors are not switching...you need to address these codes before you can expect the truck to run properly.

1132 and 1532, those codes need to be addressed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL NEVER RUN PROPERLY without properly working 02 sensors......

So far I see you cleaned the IAC
Cleaning the IAC is not going to fix faulty oxygen sensors........
lack of switching = check your fuses like suggested earlier, you are checking any fuse that has to do with the HEGO (heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor)

I haven’t checked the fuses yet either. Going back to work and our hours being wonky I’m not going in at my reg time (6am) but later so by the time I get off It’s around 6 instead of 2. But I’m going to get a fuse tester and check those. I was thinking mapping out what I need and switching them all out for new ones. Not sure what you mean by HEGO sensor but I’ll look into it. Thanks!!

 

[410Fortune]

HEGO is heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor or 02 sensor. or oxygen sensor, they call them by many names
Your truck has 4 of these sensors
There are two banks, drivers side and passenger side. Pass side is bank 1, drivers is bank 2
There are two sensors upstream of the cat converters (engine side of the converters) These are bank 1 sensor 1 (B1S1) and bank 2 sensor 1 (B2S1)
and two sensors downstream of the cat converters (exhaust side, after the converter) These are bank 1 sensor 2 (B1S2) and bank 2 sensor 2 (B2S2)
Your mechanic was talking about the downstream 02 sensor, they can be referred to as "catalyst monitors"

the two upstream sensors are responsible for telling the computer how much air remains in the exhaust and the computer uses this info to tune the amount of air and fuel needed. These two sensors are also "pre heated" by the computer at start up, so instead of waiting for the exhaust to get hot for the 02 sensor to function properly the truck uses battery power to pre heat them/ It is quite common for things that have a heating element in them to wear out or short. So HEGO sensors usually last 100-200K miles before they melt down, the heating element goes out, or they cause a dead short and blow fuses. Either way once a HEGO heater circuit has a failure we get codes from the computer
Now this does not mean you run right out and replace all 4 02 sensors............. the 02 sensors are sometimes just dong their job. In your case they are reporting a very rich condition

The two downstream sensors do not do much, they simply monitor the function of the cat converters making sure they are burning up any unspent fuel. The mechanic must have replaced one of these sensors, and as he said they are simply monitors.

Your codes 1132 and 1152
Error Code P1132 is described as Lack of Upstream HO2S (Heated Oxygen Switch Sensor) Rich Bank 1. Meaning, a rich HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor indicates a rich condition at the end of a test that it's trying to correct for over-lean condition

P1152 is the same code for bank 2

READ HERE:

Code P1152 Ford: Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2

The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Monitor is an on-board strategy designed to monitor the HO2S sensors for a malfunction or deterioration that can affect

www.autocodes.com

So the computer is NOT SEEING the two upstream sensors switching.
First thing I would do is CHECK FUSES
The lack of switching on two sensors at the same time is usually a power issue, meaning the HEGO sensors are not pre heating or being "powered up"

Without fixing these codes your truck will not run properly.

CHECK FUSES, especially ones that have to do with oxygen sensors (HEGO)
Check wiring to the two 02 sensor upstream of the cat converters

With your two codes it is not very likely that both upstream sensors have failed at the same time, it is more likely a fuse or wiring issue

yes if I replace one primary converter I replace them in both banks. Although it is possible to ruin one cat converter by dumping raw fuel into them, if you are going to replace one, replace them both.

 

[intheric]

HEGO is heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor or 02 sensor. or oxygen sensor, they call them by many names
Your truck has 4 of these sensors
There are two banks, drivers side and passenger side. Pass side is bank 1, drivers is bank 2
There are two sensors upstream of the cat converters (engine side of the converters) These are bank 1 sensor 1 (B1S1) and bank 2 sensor 1 (B2S1)
and two sensors downstream of the cat converters (exhaust side, after the converter) These are bank 1 sensor 2 (B1S2) and bank 2 sensor 2 (B2S2)
Your mechanic was talking about the downstream 02 sensor, they can be referred to as "catalyst monitors"

the two upstream sensors are responsible for telling the computer how much air remains in the exhaust and the computer uses this info to tune the amount of air and fuel needed. These two sensors are also "pre heated" by the computer at start up, so instead of waiting for the exhaust to get hot for the 02 sensor to function properly the truck uses battery power to pre heat them/ It is quite common for things that have a heating element in them to wear out or short. So HEGO sensors usually last 100-200K miles before they melt down, the heating element goes out, or they cause a dead short and blow fuses. Either way once a HEGO heater circuit has a failure we get codes from the computer
Now this does not mean you run right out and replace all 4 02 sensors............. the 02 sensors are sometimes just dong their job. In your case they are reporting a very rich condition

The two downstream sensors do not do much, they simply monitor the function of the cat converters making sure they are burning up any unspent fuel. The mechanic must have replaced one of these sensors, and as he said they are simply monitors.

Your codes 1132 and 1152
Error Code P1132 is described as Lack of Upstream HO2S (Heated Oxygen Switch Sensor) Rich Bank 1. Meaning, a rich HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor indicates a rich condition at the end of a test that it's trying to correct for over-lean condition

P1152 is the same code for bank 2

READ HERE:

Code P1152 Ford: Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2

The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Monitor is an on-board strategy designed to monitor the HO2S sensors for a malfunction or deterioration that can affect

www.autocodes.com

So the computer is NOT SEEING the two upstream sensors switching.
First thing I would do is CHECK FUSES
The lack of switching on two sensors at the same time is usually a power issue, meaning the HEGO sensors are not pre heating or being "powered up"

Without fixing these codes your truck will not run properly.

CHECK FUSES, especially ones that have to do with oxygen sensors (HEGO)
Check wiring to the two 02 sensor upstream of the cat converters

With your two codes it is not very likely that both upstream sensors have failed at the same time, it is more likely a fuse or wiring issue

yes if I replace one primary converter I replace them in both banks. Although it is possible to ruin one cat converter by dumping raw fuel into them, if you are going to replace one, replace them both.

Is there a fuse tester that you recommend? Looking on amazon and it’s all foreign to me one from another.