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I'm building both axles. Verify I'm doing it right please.

tweakedlogic

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I've been running around with 32s and 3.73 gears for a couple of months now. It is way past time to regear.

I discovered that i have a limited slip rear end. I already have Ford Racing clutch pack kit for it. I'm about to pull the trigger on everything else from Summit.
Motive Gear F888456 for the rear. And this rear end rebuild kit.

For the front, I'm going with Superior Axle, mostly due to cost. This rebuild kit is the only one Summit carries and it says it's for the D44. I know they are similar, but will this work? I recently replaced the wheel bearings up front.

I wanted to wait until I could afford a selectable locker up front, but that can't happen at this time.

Please comment on my parts selection. I would like to get the highest quality parts, but I am on a budget of $1000. This includes the Warn HD hubs. and hopefully the 2.5" lift pivot point brackets.
In some cases, one manufacturer had two different part# and prices. Are these more expensive models better than their cheaper brothers?
 


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lounge lizard

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what front axle are you running? high pinion Dana 44?

I maybe wrong but I was told reverse cut gears are for high pinion axles.

did you check 4wheelparts.com to compare prices?
 




tweakedlogic

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I'm running the d35, which I believe is reverse cut. The rear is the 8.8 LS. Both will get 4.56 gears.
I did check 4WP, these are a little cheaper and can get to me faster.
 








tweakedlogic

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finally found what I believe is the right front axle rebuild kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTA-25-2065/ it doesn't include bearings, but I guess I can get those locally.

I just want to make sure these are the right parts before i buy them.
Also, if any of you have noticed one or both of these gear sets are really noisy, please let me know.
Thanks
 




4x4junkie

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Looks to me like you found all the correct stuff. I wouldn't be too worried about the bearings up front... Typically the front diff has 0.1% of the mileage in use the rear has, and they'll probably still be like new.
 




ld50

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Hey, I usually try to share this cheat with guys taking their d35s apart, Don't know if you know already but you can notch a little bit of your radius arm to get at that bolt, otherwise you have to remove the radius arm. I ran mine hard for a few years afterwards when I put an EZ locker in, You will see what I mean when you get after it. Good luck!
 

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tweakedlogic

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what sucks is I just spent $600 on stuff no one can see/hear/feel.
At least my fuel economy will go up as well as my off road performance.
 








ld50

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Don't feel bad, I have spent thousands and thousands.You have 400 bucks left in your budget, how about a lunchbox locker in the front axle! Then everyone can hear you poppin and clicking on the trail...
 




tweakedlogic

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Don't feel bad, I have spent thousands and thousands.You have 400 bucks left in your budget, how about a lunchbox locker in the front axle! Then everyone can hear you poppin and clicking on the trail...

LOL. I would love too. But I still have to get the warn HD hubs and talk Duff into selling me just the axle pivot point drop brackets. I'm also hopping to extend the stock radius arms too. but that may have to wait.
 




Foxracin

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LOL. I would love too. But I still have to get the warn HD hubs and talk Duff into selling me just the axle pivot point drop brackets. I'm also hopping to extend the stock radius arms too. but that may have to wait.

When you call Duff ask for Brad. Tell him Trevor sent you and he will get you what you need.
 




tweakedlogic

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When you call Duff ask for Brad. Tell him Trevor sent you and he will get you what you need.

I wish I had checked this earlier. I had sent them an email, to which they replied they don't split the kit mostly for support reasons. I sent a reply asking them to reconsider and I would not hold them accountable. If that fails, I'll ask for Brad.
Thanks.

BTW: I've been reading about your Ex. You got a lot done in very little time. I'm up to the point where you got your solid front axle purchased.
 




4x4junkie

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Hey, I usually try to share this cheat with guys taking their d35s apart, Don't know if you know already but you can notch a little bit of your radius arm to get at that bolt, otherwise you have to remove the radius arm. I ran mine hard for a few years afterwards when I put an EZ locker in, You will see what I mean when you get after it. Good luck!

BAD idea.

You're asking for a stress crack to form within that notch.

Much better is to grind the bolt's head into a "D" shape, then you can wiggle it past the radius arm (also stick the bolt back in from underneath next time, there's a bit more clearance for it that way).
 




tweakedlogic

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Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep you posted on the progress.
 




lounge lizard

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see!
even I learned some things on this thread.

gotta keep tabs on it now!
 




tweakedlogic

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Well, today I tackled the rear end. Things did not go so well.

I decided to swap over to disks in the rear too, so that complicated things somewhat.

As far as tear down goes, all went fine. It was removing the bearing races on the LSD carrier. We don't have the right puller at the shop (Acura dealership). I went to three different places today to find one. Tried some claw pullers and a press. I had to cut the races and whack them with a chisel and hammer. That took forever.

Then, I noticed the wheel bearings and seals in my master rebuild kit were way too small for the axle.

I spent 5 hours (plus a jaunt for a puller) at work on my day off and all I got accomplished is repacking the LSD with 2 extra friction plates, mounting the ring gear, pressed the bearing and races into their respective slots, and the backing plate and caliper mount on. That's it!

I also think I figured out how to keep the 92 brake hard lines on the axle with the 98 calipers. I just bought another right side rubber caliper line. I'm going to use one of the backing plate bolts to hold the block that the hard line and soft line connect to. I'll post some pics when I get it all together.

Meanwhile, my rebuild kit for the front is on back order. Summit says maybe as late and the end of next week.

Tomorrow morning I'm going in there and kicking that axle's ass.
 




ld50

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BAD idea.

You're asking for a stress crack to form within that notch.

If you seen how hard I rode mine after, you would probably reconsider. If I couldn`t get it to crack, I doubt anyone else can. Just enough to get the nut out mind you...
 




tweakedlogic

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Well, it took over 16 hours, a little blood, and many expletives. But I finish the rear. Well, not really I still don't have a parking brake.

I finally got the bearing races off of the carrier, and the new ones pressed on. my master kit came with the wrong wheel bearings and seals. Bought new ones. I packed the LSD with two extra friction disks.
Had to pull the pinion three times to get the right backlash and ring pattern.
When i was nearly finished, all four caliper bolts walked off some where. So I had to buy new ones. Never did find them.

I am very happy with the gearing. I defiantly have a bit more giddy up. The LSD is so smooth. I can't tell when it unloads.

The front axles comes later. i plan on eliminating the C clip, full snap ring mod and clearance U joint. I could not convince Duff to sell me just the 2" drop brackets for the front. So I guess I will have to do it later with the extended RA. I still have to do the ring and pinion up front, but I'm not doing any bearings and junk. I just replaced the wheel bearings a month or so ago.

2011-05-18142432.jpg

2011-05-19122101.jpg

2011-05-19144016.jpg
 


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tweakedlogic

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rear disk conversion parking brake cable help

I have spent the last two days wasting gas driving all over Memphis to either find one that fits or have one made. I have been unsuccessful.

Does anyone know what car/truck or part number for the intermediate cable? I used the stock petal and petal cable from the 92. The cables that go from the stop to the brakes are from a 98 Mountaineer. the intermediate cable from the Mounty is too short, and the one from the 92 is too long by about 2 or 3 inches.
I drive a 5 speed so I need my parking brake.

Please help.

Edit: I may have found one. It is, of course, a special order part. I spent over an hour behind the Napa counter looking at every brake cable they carry. Unlike the other stores, they have the lengths for every one listed. I found one that is exactly 3" shorter, PN# 649906. I hope it fits.
 




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