I'm looking for an Aerostar.

[SurfVan]

Hello -

I'm going to check out a couple of 97 vans in my area & I'm wondering what I should be looking for on Aerostars. I know the basics like checking the engine fluids, & visual inspection. But what are the quirky things that I should check for with this model? The typically failures that might be a pain to find the parts for or might take some money to fix? I know rust is a problem on these but I don't think its something I need to worry about here in Texas.

My last van was an 87 Toyota that I was restoring until a drunk driver smashed it while it was parked.... of course that was right after I sunk loads of money into it & the insurance company didn't really see the value in my van... It was hard to find parts for the Toyota but searching through the junkyards was kind of fun.

I'm hoping the Aerostar can be a good replacement van. It's similar in some ways & seems much easier to work on. After some research it seems like nearly all of the modern vans made today, outside of the Sienna, are pretty unreliable. I like that the Aerostar was made for so long & used technology that hadn't been changed for some time. Reminds me of the volvo 240 in this regard.

& the Aerostar still has that 80's space radness to it. I guess everyone was just so into Star Trek, Star Wars, & Nasa back then.

Someday I would love to have an old 60's era econoline club wagon but right now I just need something a little newer...

Does anyone know the cargo dimensions in the van? I've searched for them but it's hard to find. The toyota was able to take my 9'4 & 9'2 surfboards inside. Since I live a few hours inland - this is kind of an important feature because they are fiberglass & suffer a lot of abuse from traveling on roof racks. I get the feeling that the worst case scenario is I load them on the side w/out the bench seats & up between the front seats.

But I'd like to build a bed in the back or maybe find the fold downs - my Toy had them & they were so comfy - especially when one is use to sleep in the back of crumby station wagons.

Also, I know I've seen these lifted... do they have adjustable torsion bars that can raise the chassis a little bit? sure makes nice to be able to clear the sand that big trucks leave on the beach.

Other than the interior are there any changes or differences in the Cargo panel version? I'd assume it probably has a better rear end suspension? I think they are pretty cool looking & might go with the cargo version but I'm not sure what I might be missing out on. Maybe some insulation? Louder ride? No rear a/c?

Anyway, thanks for listening, I'm pretty excited right now about having a van again, so sorry about that.. & thanks to anyone who helps point me in the right direction.

 

[rv4fun]

Welcome to the forum!

Pretty much all short the Aerostar have a GVW right at 5000Lbs plus or minus a few pounds (VIN=1FMD... over 5000Lbs / VIN=1FMC...under 5000Lbs) . The sticker on the driver's door should give you specifics. I put 10' lengths of conduit and plastic pipe in my shorty all the time - although they stretch from the backdoor to under the dash. I even haul a 20' extension ladder inside (w/o any passengers). You can't beat the Aerostar for long life. Rust is the major problem - open the passenger door and look at the threshold for early signs of rust as well as the rocker panels. I've got a '97 full of tools with over 280k and it's still runs great. I've had to replace the a/c compressor and emissions few hoses in the past year. Keep the fluids changed on time and you should get good service from them. The first row of seats can be swapped for two buckets that individually snap into the holes the bench seat used - if you can find them. The Aerostars don't command a high price but let's keep the secret of their usefulness quiet - until (heaven forbid) we try to sell them.

Good luck with your search.

 

[mmerlinn]

Having owned two Aeros, my criteria are 1) automatic, 2) 3.0L engine, 3) 1990-1995, & 4) reasonable visual condition for the mileage. The only thing I would worry about is the transmission because they DO have a bad reputation, which based on my experience with Aeros and based on 30 years of selling parts for those transmissions is largely UNdeserved for Aerostars.

Bottom line is if it starts, runs, and drives well for its mileage, buy it. Decent Aeros around here with 150,000 miles can be had for $1000 or less if one is patient, though the going rate seems to be about $2000. Regardless, you will not find a better deal for a decent van with any other model.

Is rust a problem? I have no idea. I have never seen a rusted out nor rusty Aerostar, and i still see several driving around every day. Even those in the junkyards are not rusty. And this is Oregon where it "never" stops raining, or so it seems sometimes.

I have never measured the insides, but the stretch Aero will easily haul full sheets of plywood, and I think even the shorty might be able to haul them also. I know that I regularly haul a 2000 plus pound payload in my shorty (springs bottomed out) and still get 26mph highway at 380,000 miles.

Aeros are notorious for a water leak above the window behind the driver's seat. Look for water damage above those windows.

 

[SurfVan]

Really appreciate y'all responding. I do see some lower mileage (100Kish) vans here in my area but sometimes the low mileage almost makes me concerned there is a problem with them.

How reliable / unreliable is the transmission? Its not Honda Odyssey unreliable is it? Other than fluid changes is there any other maintenance involved with the tranny's to keep them healthy? How many miles can I expect out of the tranny?

& why the preference for 90 - 95 years? What are the 96 & 97 lacking ?

I can't believe the gas mileage you are reporting.. That's great!

The Aerostars do seem to be holding their value well for cars their age, but are still a good deal. & even more useful than the Ranger...

 

[rv4fun]

I've had 5 Aerostars over the years (I still own 3 of them) as you can see from my signature. They've all been the short models with 3.0L automatics. I've never had any motor or transmission trouble. I just change the oil/filter every 3,000 miles or so and grease them at the same time.

I prefer the '97 model with the '96 close behind. The only major difference I can find is with the cruise control. The '96 has a vacuum powered cruise that looses speed going up steep hills while the '97 has an electric cruise that pretty well maintains the setting going up hills. Both the '96 and '97 have the ODBII computer used on today's cars. Production of Aerostars ended after the 1997 model year.

Many of the extended vans use "automatic all wheel drive" and almost all have 4.0L engines. The transmission on these models is more problematic than the short vans.

Sure, the doors aren't motorized and there's only one slider, the seats don't store in the floor but they are easily removed (even easier with some help). So, there are a few things you'll have to give up by going with an Aerostar but for reliability, they're hard to beat.

I had to replace a couple a/c compressors, front rotors & pads, tie rod ends, even a whole rack & pinion for the steering but the price for those things doesn't compare with what I be paying monthly on a newer van.

 

[SurfVan]

Thank you for the run down on the trannys. I was hoping there wasn't a problem with the 5 speed in the 97's - I assume it gets a little better gas mileage on the highway. & I'm glad to hear it has the electronic cruise too... Unlike the rest of Texan drivers, I love cruise control.

Rack & pinion isn't too bad of a job.. I find that they sometimes need to be replaced if a car has been sitting a long time & the seals dry out & start to leak... also if the front suspension isn't maintained then they can take a beating. All the things you mentioned are kind of typical.

Does anyone have some info on roof racks for them? In photos I've seen some have as many as 4 cross bars (very cool for hauling longboards). It's too bad the van doesn't have rain gutters for a rack system.. but it looks like there are some, kind of expensive, aftermarket racks available from places like JC Whitney. What about pulling a factory rack from another vehicle - is this an option? or is too complicated, pulling down the headliner & all that?

I've been reading a lot info in this forum... It's a great place & I'm appreciative that its here.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could put any kind of roof rack on that you like just as long as it's sealed properly. You don't want to get water damage. The 5 speed transmission is the 5R55E which is an updated version of the older A4LD. The hard parts are made a little better. Take a look in the transmission section for a thread called Project Frankentranny. It explains how to update the older A4LD with 5R55E hard parts. The extended models have more cargo space if you really need the extra space. Check to see if there are trouble lights such as a check engine light, ABS, SRS, etc.

 

[cgbier]

Rust issues? I don't know much about the Aerostar, but my '95 has solid rust holes at the rocker panels and the doors. Rusted rocker panels would never hold me off from buying a car (if it is not too bad), as it is pretty easy to replace them, even if you aren't a welding virtuoso. Just make sure to seal your welding spots properly.

I'm living on a tropical island, so salt spray is always an issue. There are still some Aerostars driving around here. Actually, more than Japanese vans of similar vintage or Windstars. From my experience, it looks like Ford trucks have better, more rust resistant, bodies than Toyota and Cie. Dunno about GM, as there never have been many here.

 

[cgbier]

On a second thought: In January 14, a lot of guest workers will leave the island. If there is a solid Aerostar around, I might bite.

I'm doing a lot of filming, and shooting a bicycle race or a marathon from a comfortable seat through an open sliding door is more fun than shooting from the back of a pickup truck.

 

[BrooklynBay]

All of my vans are rusted out. It doesn't seem like there is any way to prevent it from happening. There's a link somewhere on this site for a company which makes replacement rocker panels. I've seen it more than once over the past year or two.

 

[mmerlinn]

How reliable is the A4LD transmission in an Aerostar? Well, I have 380,000 miles on my 93 A4LD that has never been out of the van. And I abuse the transmission by overloading the van, then hauling [MENTION=127576]ss[/MENTION] over the mountains.

For some reason, the A4LD in a 3.0L Aerostar has few problems (I have never seen a fried one come across my teardown table) but the same exact transmission in a Bronco II or Ranger can become so bad it literally takes a sledge hammer to smash the case to get it apart. Go figure.

Why 90 to 95?

The 86-89 A4LDs used a 3-pinion aluminum rear planet that tended to grenade. Ditto with 90-95 A4LDs behind a 4-cylinder.

90-95 A4LDs behind a V6 had 4- or 6-pinion steel planets which never grenade.

96-97 Aeros had some version of the 4R44E/4R55E/5R44E transmission which were very problematic in those two years. Later versions of those transmissions (not found in factory Aeros) had most problems fixed.

Basically the first two years of the 4R44E versions were an A4LD with electronics added. Starting in 98 many of the bushings in the 4R44E versions were replaced with bearings radically improving them.

Personally, I prefer the hydraulic controlled A4LD over the electronic controlled 4R44E etc.

Aeros also used two different standard transmissions, both of which will last a long time IF THEY ARE KEPT FULL OF OIL. They tend to be leakers, so checking the oil is a necessity for longevity.

 

[SurfVan]

Wow, Thank you for the very detailed info. It would have taken me a while to sort through the forums to understand the Aero's tranny evolution this concisely.

I would love to get 380K out a vehicle someday. I have more of a problem with people running into my vehicles than I do vehicles with vehicles just giving out. In the last 5 years I have lost a 1991 Volvo 240 (w/ 230K & going strong), 2006 Vespa Lx150, 1987 Toyota Van (190K), 2008 Toyota Matrix - mostly all from drunk drivers.

I did kill a Mercury Tracer hatchback when I was a kid but that was my fault - I knew there was an oil leak & I ran the engine dry. Which is too bad because that was a cool little car - it was blue w/ a stick shift.

I looked up the 5R55E & it seems like the problems that people had with them were pretty minor. Some electronic & gasket problems but nothing catastrophic on a wide scale.

& it sounds like the 3.0L engine is pretty solid too.

I have my eye on a vehicle but I'm waiting for the owners to return to town at the end of the week. Trying to be patient...

Thanks again everybody.

 

[mmerlinn]

The 3.0L motor is darn near bullet proof. Probably the best motor Ford ever used.

I just about destroyed my 3.0 motor last year. Oil pump plugged up. With new pump I only get 5psi pressure at idle using 40W oil, but the motor still keeps running 30,000 miles later without knocking.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you plug in a test gauge to determine that there's only 5 PSI?

 

[mmerlinn]

I have a manual gauge hooked up which reads 50psi cold, 5psi hot at idle, and 17psi hot at drive speeds.

Dash gauge goes to zero at hot idle and stays in middle rest of the time.

It takes 6 miles of driving to get hot enough to get the lower readings.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you try using motor flushing chemicals or Seafoam to remove the sludge which is causing the low pressure reading? Try a low number grade of synthetic oil such as 0-30 or 0-40 to see if the pressure goes back to normal.

 

[mmerlinn]

Will try that on next oil change. 5-30 does not do a thing and has even lower pressures, but did not try your options.

 

[cgbier]

We had a similar issue once with a new generation Mercedes Diesel. As it was a fleet car, it got the same salad oil as the old ones. We switched that car to a premium brand oil and the problem was solved.