Inline fuel pump for BII project | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

Inline fuel pump for BII project

stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
Hey guys, im working ever so slow on swapping a 95 4.0 into my 85 BII. Instead of trying to find all the fuel injection parts from a newer BII i am going to go with a inline fuel pump and regulator kit. I started searching today for what i could find and the list is endless. Is there any one out there that can help me figure out what kind of or size of inline fuel pump setup i need. Thanks
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
There is a regulator on the fuel rail.
This isn't going to be easy, (on me that is). In the past I have read posts where people have done what you are about to do, some with good luck, most with not such good luck.
To begin, you are going to have to install a return line to the tank from the fuel rail on the engine, no mater what pump you use. That pump needs to develop at least 40 pound of pressure to get the engine to run.
Next, in 86 when the B2's became injected they had 2 fuel pumps, (I would guess that Ford didn't have the technology at that time to do it with one pump), one pump in the tank for feeding the high pressure pump mounted on the frame rail under the drivers feet. The pump in the tank has always been a real problem, you have to drop the tank to change that pump, they don't go out too often, but when they doo, you are looking at a four plus hour job to change it. I have fixed that problem by cutting a hole in the rear floor of the B2. I'll go into that later.
I am rejuvenating an 86 B2 by using a 92 Explorer for a donor, it has made life somewhat simpler than having to go to the wrecking yard for all the parts. And having a vehicle that is already injected made life even easier than yours.
Installing an electric pump of any make on the frame rail is a hit and miss, some have had it work out, but most have not, as trying to pull fuel from the rear to the pump puts a real strain on the pump, so most have had to install an in-tank booster pump to keep from burning out the inline prematurely. That involves running wiring from the front pump to the rear, dropping the tank, installing the in-tank pump from an 86-90 B2.
When I started my project, one of the things I had to do was replace the in-tank pump and clean the tank, that meant dropping it, I did it, while I had the tank out I was trying to figure out a way of eliminating the second pump on the frame rail, at that point I had no idea what to do.
Now, however, that has changed. I have installed the in-tank pump from the 92 Explorer and removed the pump on the rail, all seems well.
What I suggest, and it is only a suggestion, get an in-tank pump assembly, (that comes with the sending unit) for a 86-90 B2 and just the pump itself, for a 92 Explorer, (91-95 i believe will work, you can find them online) and swap the stock B2 pump for the Explorer pump and install it into the tank. The plug for putting power to the pump can be purchased from this link:http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...8976&shopid=100001&pageid=12&_requestid=26450 for the wiring schematic post a request or try to find it in a manual.
You will also need to change the sending unit from your existing unit in the tank to the new unit, fairly straight forward. Ford changed the ohm rating between some years, I don't know when it was, but to be on the safe side, change it.
GET 2 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS!!!!!!
Now to the fun part, cutting a hole above the tank sending unit. First and for most, make sure you cannot smell, see, feel, or any other sensory, GAS. Crawl under the rear of your truck, in front of the rear axle and look up and back from the differential, you should see a line coming from the tank and a black corrugated split loom, use something to push the split loom down and hold as close to the tank as possible, (wedge it in). Next, put the back seats down, remove the strip that holds the carpet in place at the very rear and remove it, roll the carpet forward and remove the piece under it, then on each side and the center of the carpet in front push it forward and remove the carpet, also remove the piece that held the front of it in place. You should now see a bare floor with 9 ribs running lengthwise, go to the center one and place a mark with a felt marker, then go about 4 inches on each side of that rib, that should put you on the top of the next rib, and put another mark. To the front, where the slope to where the rear seats mount, measure back about 5 inches and place another mark, (The piece of tin that held the front of the carpet was screwed down in the middle, you will want to cut an inch or so behind that screw hole). and another 8 inches and another mark. Connect all the mark to form a square, or rectangle, this is what you are going to cut out, I used a grinder with a cut off disc. Take your time and cut just deep enough to get threw the metal. When the cutting is completed and the piece removed, you should be looking down at the top of the sending unit.
Clean the top of the tank to get rid of the years of dirt buildup, paying close attention to the top of the sending unit. Unplug the wire and the fuel line, or lines, it may have 2, and using a hammer and screwdriver, remove the lock ring by tapping it around, hint-the tabs on the ring that fit under the tank tabs, have a stop, turn it the other direction, (don't laugh, a fellow I know, ruined his tank because he didn't pay attention) remove the sending unit from the tank, swap the fuel gauge sending unit to your new pump/sending unit assembly and reinstall the assembly in the reverse of the removal.
Now you need to route your return line from the engine back to the tank. The wiring portion of the job is going to require you to use a schematic for a 86-90 B2 and the donor vehicles wiring harness, (the wiring harness for the engine you have) you will also need an inertia switch if you don't already have one.
To replace the plate you cut out of your floor, either cut a larger corresponding piece from another rig or add a lip around the outer edge to support the cutout piece, silicone and screws or pop rivet in back in place and reinstall the items you removed to get to the floor.
I think I got it all, if I missed something, pos your ? here, PM or email me, I'll try to get it right.
To all B2 owners. If you haven't had to remove your fuel tank you don't want to. It took less time to get to the sending unit/pump assembly by cutting the floor out and patching the hole for a later removal, than it does to remove the skid plate and get the wiring/fuel lines disconnected.


Ray
 
<



stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
There is a regulator on the fuel rail.

Now, however, that has changed. I have installed the in-tank pump from the 92 Explorer and removed the pump on the rail, all seems well.

What I suggest, and it is only a suggestion, get an in-tank pump assembly, (that comes with the sending unit) for a 86-90 B2 and just the pump itself, for a 92 Explorer, (91-95 i believe will work, you can find them online) and swap the stock B2 pump for the Explorer pump and install it into the tank.

You will also need to change the sending unit from your existing unit in the tank to the new unit, fairly straight forward. Ford changed the ohm rating between some years, I don't know when it was, but to be on the safe side, change it.


GET 2 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS!!!!!!

Clean the top of the tank to get rid of the years of dirt buildup, paying close attention to the top of the sending unit. Unplug the wire and the fuel line, or lines, it may have 2, and using a hammer and screwdriver, remove the lock ring by tapping it around, hint-the tabs on the ring that fit under the tank tabs, have a stop, turn it the other direction, (don't laugh, a fellow I know, ruined his tank because he didn't pay attention) remove the sending unit from the tank,

swap the fuel gauge sending unit to your new pump/sending unit assembly

and reinstall the assembly in the reverse of the removal.

I think I got it all, if I missed something, pos your ? here, PM or email me, I'll try to get it right.


Ray

Ok so that was actually really helpful, thank you for that. But to make a long story into a super short question....

Since i have a complete 95 explorer that im using for a donor vehicle, does that pump simply fit into the tank from my 85 BII? I have everything and i mean everything from the 95 explorer. Inertia switch, wiring harness, regulator if needed, anything i would need from the explorer is available. fuel pump works.

IMG_1312.jpg


also, does the sending unit on the 95 pump work in the 85 tank?

Im well aware of the multiple fire extinguishers for cutting around the tank, when i was using an acetylene torch to cut the frame rails and tank skid plate i had three extinguishers, a cousin, grandpa, and dad, with extinguishers in hand. most nervous time cutting i have ever had.
IMG_1335.jpg



Thanks for your help. much appreciation.

Stephan
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
You did what I did, bought an Explorer. Yours is a 95, mine is/was a 92. This is the best way I can think of.
Are you going to use the complete Explorer?
I completely stripped my Explorer and am using every part possible, however I did not use the dash itself (wrong color for the scheme I had started), only the wiring harness from it, the dash and interior came from a 89 and a 90 B2 that were in a wrecking yard. The dash and all the wiring from your 95 will fit into your 85 with a little modification and some fabrication. If you are interested in doing this, we can do a Q&A as to what I did.
Now about your fuel tank question, the pump assembly will fit into your tank, BUT, (that big word) the X pump is about an inch shorter than the pump assembly in my 86. I figured that would be about 2 gallons left in the tank. That isn't really a problem, and has an advantage as it won't suck the crud from the bottom of the tank and plug your screen.
Fuelpumps.jpg

The other problem I noted was the direction the feed/return tubes point, they face toward the right side rather than forward to the left, the way they appear in the hole picture.
After I swapped the pumps from one to the other assembly I thought that maybe I could have turned the tubes to a more suitable angle. I am not sure how to go about that, but it could be done by using a short collar to capture the two parts in the correct direction and soldering the assembly back together. If you can make that work, you can use the steel fuel line assembly from the X, this would be a real time saver, and IMO a much better setup than the nylon tubing on my B2. I am still trying to figure a way of making them work on mine, and have an idea but will have to try it before I write it down.
You will need to use the vent and carbon canister, on your X, left side of radiator, plastic container screwed to the radiator support with two rubber hoses, one goes to the engine, the other to the fuel tank. The hose going to the tank has a small pump, from the pump most have a nylon tubing that goes to the tank, X's have a steel line. I don't know if you have a opening for the carbon canister line or not, if not, it needs to be in the upper most top of the tank, above any possibility of having fuel get into it.
That is all I can think of for now, let me know if you have other questions.

Ray
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Thought of something else, if you use the ump from the X, the wiring harness is nearly a direct fit, it just a little long (I do mean a little, 8-12").
I have been thoroughly amazed at how much of this swap has been bolt in or nearly so. Being as our 2 X's are 3 years apart, I am not sure how some of your parts compare to mine, but would guess most parts are pretty much the same.
If you find something that is different than what I say it is on mine, please say so, it may be useful to know other years that will work.

Ray
 
<



stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
I am planning on using EVERY part i can in this project, the more parts i use the easier it will be. IMO. I am using the complete engine management wiring, body electrical wiring, under hood lighting and other acc wiring. The only things im not using for wiring is the remote unlock. I am even installing rear wipers and washer fluid tank eventually.


Im not too concerned about the color of the interior, i was trying to get to an all tan or mocha, but now i have tan seats and door panels, grey center council and eventually dash, blue carpet, rear seat, and trim pieces. So i guess im going more now for functionality than appearance. Oh well. Maybe some day ill tear it all out again and switch to the interior that best matches the paint i want. Which i dont know what that will be yet.

heres another little issue, the pump you posted a picture of is from the 92, the 95 looks more like this.

explorerfuelpump.jpg


I would not think this is going to create a problem. as the tanks in the 92 and 95 explorers are identical. Just a different pump style.

So i think i am just going to install this pump in my tank and i am going to be running hose for fuel lines. Im not too much of a fan of it. but thanks to my cousin who helped me pull the engine out of the explorer.... The steel lines are no longer useful.


I may want to get your help on the dash swap. If you have any pictures i would appreciate them.


Im hoping in the next week i can get started on tearing into this all. Im doing:

Engine, transmission, maybe transfer case if my manual tcase does not work, drive shafts, rear axle, dash, firewall, and ALLLLLLL the wiring.

Check out my BII forum. Got lots of pictures on there and am putting more on now.
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Found your B2 page, good looking truck.
For the dash removal I'm going to give you a link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=230020
There is another that is for a gen 1 which is what I used, when I locate it again, I'll post that link to.
Real shame about the fuel lines, I think they would have saved you some $ and time.
I don't see any reason why the X pump won't work, it is just a different design, the one thing that is of concern to me, is that it appears to be all plastic, where the 92 pump has a metal pump. I am wondering about the longevity of the 95 pump. Also, I see holes around the plate on the pump, I hope these aren't to secure the pump to the tank.
I have my dash in, but I can get some pictures of what pieces you will need to remove from the X to make the dash fit into the B2. The steering column is something that will require some fitting. I read an article that showed the pieces that need to be removed to be able to fit the steering column support into the B2. I'll try to find that article and link it back to here.
I think you can use the heater box and all, so this is going to be a very time consuming project just to change the firewall stuff.
When you start removing the dash, I suggest you do that job by yourself, there are a few things you will unplug that you will need to know where they reconnect, take pictures.
This site will help you: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DashSwap.htm

Ray
 
<



stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
i actually already have the dash removed. From the Explorer that is. The steering column in this explorer is supported by the dash itself. once i have the dash mounted the rest ill mount up to it. I need to know what parts to cut out of the explorer for mounts and weld them into the BII.

I agree with the plastic thing about the fuel pump. maybe just buying a new assembly from a 91-94 ex would be better, its all metal then and might last longer.
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
The stock in-tank pump in my 86 B2 was plastic and lasted over 20 years, but that is a volume pump and only a few pounds pressure. It might be good to post a question and see how many responses come back about the life span of these fuel pumps.

Ray
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
I just read an interesting article on another forum about fuel pumps. It seems the in-tank pump from a 89-90 is very similar to the pump you show in the picture above except they have the right fuel and return lines headed in the proper direction and use the same electrical plug that is on my 86. They should be a direct fit, and except for the cost would probably be an easier install plus it eliminates the pump on the rail.
I really wish I had known about this a long time ago, I would have eliminated that rail pump about 15 years ago.

Rya
 
<



stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
Back to this post for me for now. I need to do my swap sooner than i thought. I am going to buy a fuel pump assembly for a 90 BII. The pump says it puts out 100-110 PSI. So will this in tank pump be sufficent and i dont need to do any modifications?

The sooner the help the better.

Thanks
 
<



Clem

Member
Joined
August 1, 2009
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Oh yeah! The frame rail mounted inline pump put out 90-110#, so that will work great.
The only question would be the electrical plug.
Other than that, it should be a drop in. Now what about the lines, 85 was carburetor, 86 and newer were injected and have a return line from the engine as well as a carbon canister line that runs from the canister on the left side of the radiator to the fuel tank. The other side of the canister connects to the intake. It seems this is important for drawing the fumes from the fuel tank into the engine for emission reasons.

Ray
 
<



stephan325i

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 6, 2007
Messages
141
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oshkosh Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1985 Bronco II, 2.8, 5spd
Thanks ray, you have been most helpful. As for the electrical plug, i have already ordered a pigtail for the 90 pump. i will be splicing that into the 95 x wiring harness.

Will my fuel line work from my 85 for a feed? just need to figure out a return?


as for the canister, its not going to be used cause im in wisconsin and i dont have to deal with emissions crap, all i want is more power!!!!!
 
<



Top