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Inner Tie Rod Removal and Replacement (Pictures)

Hey man awesome write up. Just one question...my truck has been making this God awful squeaking over bumps and it groans real bad when I turn the wheel and it is a constant groan that lasts thru the entire turn, also there is an occasional pop during some turns..would that ball joint in the inner tie rod be the source of all that noise? I'm thinking maybe its just a little dry and needs some grease. I've replaced the LBJs, stabilizer pins/bushings which leads me to believe it is a bad tie rod. Also I can feel a little slack and a faint vibration in the steering. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The noise is so bad I don't even wanna drive the ***** lol
 



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Anyone have pro/con concerning Motorcraft Tie Rods ? I was leaning towards MC because the inner's include the boot & clamps and outer's can be greased.

MOTORCRAFT Part # MEOE33 {#F57Z3280AA}
Front Inner: 2 x $36.79 = $73.58
MOTORCRAFT Part # MES3302 {#F5TZ3V13, F5TZ3V131A}
Front Outer: 2 x $40.79 = $81.58

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
 






Those aren't complete Ford #'s, or we could search them for a cheaper price. I put four new Ford tie rods on my Mountaineer two years ago, I'm sure it was less than $150.

Try TascaFord.com, you can buy almost any Ford part there for the lowest price. Figure about 10% in shipping costs.

The McQuaid-Norris suspension parts are getting higher quality reviews than the Moog or Ford parts. Evidently they are a little stronger, good for offroading.
 












The Ford part numbers are in three distinct parts, having a space or dash between them, or left out is the same thing.

This part # you mentioned "F5TZ3V13" doesn't do it. The "F5TZ" is the first part, four characters is normal there. Then there is a base part number that you didn't list. The "3V13" doesn't look like anything for a base or suffix code. The third part is a revision of the part, such as AB, or DA etc. Those are changed for for each revision of each part.

Go to TascaFord.com, and browse for an application to find any part. The part # is what you need to search online over the entire web to find a certain part, and they don't like to post that. Without the proper part number, you have to enter the vehicle information on each website and browse for that one part. That takes forever.

Find the full part number to start with, and then you can very quickly compare sources and prices around the world.
 






I checked TascaFord and they want about $75 for two tie rods, so depending on shipping the set of four might be $140 there. I think prices have gone up, I'd look into the McQuaid-Norris parts then. If the price is right, get the best part.
 






When I click on the TascFord Visit Our Service Dept link, I get

"500 - Error
Sorry, but there was a Server Error loading this page."
 












Thanks, got to referenced page. ITRE: $36.78 OTRE: $39.99. Didn't list a p/n. Just for grins I used the F p/n from Rockauto quote in the tascaparts site, search by p/n found the ITRE, but not the OTRE.
 






I got $28 for the 99 OTRE, and I noticed a Mountaineer was $60 or so. I would call them to verify which tie rods are needed, since they should all be identical from 95-01 for either an Explorer or a Mountaineer.

That's another good reason to deal with the big Ford dealers, they will be more able to sort out odd application differences. Rock Auto etc, cannot do that, they are following a book written by obscure Ford people. The dealers know how to decipher that weird stuff.
 












That may be, but you do know that Raybestos is not a suspension company? They are selling parts from someone else, which is fine of course, but they didn't develop the parts. McQuaid Norris is like Moog an old trusted suspension company, it's just a matter of how high quality or cheap their products are becoming. Moog has had some slip ups, and I'm sure all companies do.

I'd get the parts if they are the same as McQuaid Norris.
 






The large steel clamp is a crush clamp, a special $15 tool makes that tight. Evan used a screwdriver to pry them open/loose. I noticed that he didn't get new clamps with his ends, and used a zip tie to replace the steel clamp. That should work fine, I bought my tie rods from Ford(with clamps), and I had the tool from doing axles prior.

That vent pipe should easily slip or pull out of the boots. Take your time and keep everything clean. Good luck,

I bought Motorcraft ITRE, which came with "The large steel clamp is a crush clamp, a special $15 tool makes that tight." Do you know a google search term to find this special tool, or better yet, a source ?

Also ITRE didn't come with grease for boot, is Valvoline Durablend, Moly-Fortified Synthetic Blend Grease, meets NLGI #2 GC-LB Lithium Complex EP Grease, OK ?
 






I think I bought that odd tool at a local parts store, I'll bet you can find it too. That grease will work, It's usually good to hunt the better greases, the difference in price is not much.
 






i think it is the right lower ball joint. (been there, done that) they screem when it's time to replace them.
 












If you don't find the tool readily, I gather people do fine with a good strong zip tie as well.

I've got a picture of the tool hanging from the clamp on mine;
 

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CDW6212R; RED tool, WHITE truck, & BLUE jack stand, almost wanted to salute. :salute:
 






I think this is the fourth posting I have read from you that has saved me loads of $. The tips are priceless.
 



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You think it might be a vent for the Bellows when it compresses/extends? Just a thought. This writeup is very good.
 






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