Input needed on a very important Explorer related decision.

[Jungleboy084]

Hello everyone. Hope all is well. I’m writing this post in hopes of getting some very vital information here. Over a year ago in the spring of 2016 I purchased a 1998 Ford Explorer for business purposes. I own a mobile detailing business that was at its beginnings at the time and needed a vehicle fast to haul around various equipment all the while looking presentable as I performed work in the field at various customers homes and business. The Explorer is an XLT with a 4.0 SOHC and automatic transmission, non 4wd. With the exception of a few fixable dents and oxidized paint in some areas that I was able to correct due to that being my field of work, the vehicle appeared to be a solid work vehicle and actually one I began to like in general. I performed an exterior and interior detail on it and eventually garnered commpliments on it it cleaned up so well. Solid with virtually no rust being a purchase from central Florida. Because this was my first ford vehicle I have ever owned (I’m a Chevy guy to be quite honest, don’t flame me lol) I had really no info or background on their powertrains and drive trains or anything else. All I saw was a vehicle at a used car lot with only 149,000 and something miles on it with no rust or check engine light. I eventually had to relocate due to some personal things to the northern and much colder state of Ohio and that’s when the problems started.

About only a year and a half later and a few thousand miles issues began to show up, which is to be expected due to the colder temperatures and how gaskets and things shrink. I developed the common intake manifold gasket leak as well as both valve covers. Those were the only issues and I didn’t mind because they were issues that would sideline the vehicle and they were repairs I could do on the weekend which I had planned. The next issue however was catastrophic and had left me in a terrible situation. It being the SOHC 4.0 you’re probably guessing it.....

The timing chain tensions have broken and now the chain its lose but the vehicle is still running. I knew of the issue after getting to know my explorer and it dreaded it happening so much that I would check up on the way the vehicle sounded daily to monitor whether I was going to be a victim or not. Infact I checked it so much to the point I was literally next to the engine near the wheel well doing my daily check up when I heard it happen. CLUNK!! I hear this noise which was likely pieces of the plastic chain guides flying and hitting the chase. The vehicle immediately changed RPM and began to exhibit the very exact dreaded sound that I had heard on so many YouTube videos. It had happened. My $2,000 business investment had substantially increased to now over $5,000.

I have immediately quit driving the vehicle since hearing this happen and during the few miles I did drive it, it drove as normal with no power loss but did misfire as I saw the check engine light blink. The chain is not completely broken and I have yet to have it looked at, so I have no idea of how many of those guides or which ones have taken a crap, all I know is that it happened.

Hard time have hit me and my family and I started up this business because it’s something I have a passion for and also a business that could be started with a small over head. This Explorer was important to me because it was what I thought was a very dependable vehicle with low miles (149,000 at purchase) for the age of it. I had saved substanially on one of the major costs of my business, a workhorse vehicle but now I’m seeing this thing is basically costing me over $5,000 IF I decide to get the work done. (2,000 purchase price plus the 3,000 to likely get the work done). Now I haven’t officially gotten any estimates or even had it looked at to determine what all needed to be done but let’s just face it, the logical repair to be done would be to have one of those complete timing kits installed. From all chains to the tensioners to the guides, or have a reman thrown in under the hood. This is where you all come into play....

Should I get any of this done or what? Currently the truck sits at about 159,200 miles. It was running fine except for slight idle issues on cold days due to manifold gaskets. Then this catastrophe happens rendering it useless. Should I get the repair done or reman engine or should I get rid of this thing? What will I even be able to get out of it with such an issue under the hood if I were to sale it (I would be honest I tell them the facts of what’s wrong with it)? I need help in this decision as I am planning to relocate back to Florida to operate my business after working a job at a company in another state. I’m just beside myself after saving up money to know that a great bulk of it will now have to go to getting another work vehicle or repairing this thing! I may not have been a Ford fan and I’m not bashing the brand. I mean I do like most domestic brands but how on earth could they allow such a engineering catastrophe to happen? I mean the thing was fine and had now been sidelined by castastropic engine failure. It’s crazy to read how this happened to some of these even while the vehicles were younger!

Anyway, keep and repair, junk, if repair, new engine or fix current engine. What is the best financial decision for someone who badly needs this truck for work?

Below are pictures of it. Thank you all for reading as well as your input in advanced!

 

[Centaurus5.0]

That's a pretty clean rig!

Redo the chains on the engine you have if it's repairable is what I'd say. Save you money vs buying a whole new engine. Do VB upgrades to trans and put synthetic in everything then you should be for set for another 100,00 miles (besides the the little things that pop up of coarse) to make your money with it.

If it was rough with over 200,000 I'd say sell it and find a 5.0L in Florida.

Heck, for $2000 you could find a wrecked "low" mileage 5.0L and do a swap.

 

[1998Exp]

I second Centaurus. If you invest the $3000 (hopefully less), you will have a decent vehicle. As is, it's probably worth around $500, so your alternative is buying a used vehicle for about $3500. You may get lucky and find a V8 Explorer or something similar in very good condition for that money, but it's not going to be quick, and moreover, will almost certainly need some repairs to become a reliable work truck. Many of us on this forum keep our 2-gen Explorers as a second or third vehicle, so we have the luxury of working on them cheaply and slowly, but it does not appear to be your case.
I apologize for pouring salt on your wounds, but your experience should be a lesson: before you buy anything, and a used vehicle in particular, take the time to research. It's all available free of charge on the internet.

 

[koda2000]

Personally, I wouldn't fix it. Like many here (including myself) our first experience with the Ford SOHC V6 went badly. You can drop $2,300 'ish into replacing all the timing chain components and end up with the same problem before long. Even if the engine doesn't give you any additional problems, the V6 transmissions are not particularly long-lived either. Are you willing to perhaps need to put another $2,000 into a transmission rebuild?

With the 4.0L SOHC engine, it's not a matter of if, but when the timing chains will get you. Too bad, it looks like a very clean vehicle.

Edit:
For less than it will cost to have your timing chain components replaced, you can probably find a clean V8 Explorer or Mountaineer. The V8's can easily go 300,000 miles and the V8 transmissions are stronger, plus fuel economy is about the same as the V6 (which is not to say it's very good). We love our V8's and but have had trouble with all our SOCH V6's (except the one that we bought already having a rebuilt engine). The only SOHC V6 I have left is my '01 Sport Trac. It has 195,000 miles on it, rattles on startup and makes weird noises if stressed while in reverse. I'm not putting any money into this vehicle and plan to drive it into the ground.

Tip: If you find a V8 that maybe is less than perfect, you can transfer many parts from your green truck into the replacement. The interior parts are largely interchangeable between 1995-2001 on the 4 door models. Also, many of the exterior and suspension parts, tires wheels and brakes are interchangeable.

 

[Jungleboy084]

Thank you all for the input. So how much could I scrap this thing for? Looking to relocate soon and it would likely be more beneficial for me to get rid of this junker.

 

[koda2000]

Thank you all for the input. So how much could I scrap this thing for? Looking to relocate soon and it would likely be more beneficial for me to get rid of this junker.

Scrap goes by the pound. Load it up with any heavy junk you have laying around. I don't know what they're paying for scrap right now. IIRC we got somewhere between $320-$340 for our XLT when we scraped it, but that was in 2012. Usually when the economy is up, scrap values are down.

You can try sticking it on your CL as a "mechanic's special" for $500-$600. Anything you can get over $300 is a profit.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Scrap goes by the pound. Load it up with any heavy junk you have laying around. I don't know what they're paying for scrap right now. IIRC we got somewhere between $320-$340 for our XLT when we scraped it, but that was in 2012. Usually when the economy is up, scrap values are down.

You can try sticking it on your CL as a "mechanic's special" for $500-$600. Anything you can get over $300 is a profit.

Scrap in 2012 was roughly $10/100 pounds, here in SC, now it runs $4.50/100 pounds, so basically, $200. I'd list it on Craigslist for $600, they sell quick like that here, aiming high always gets you what you want. It's also worth a mention, on an entirely different subject, that's a dark green Explorer, I haven't seen one in at least 2 years that had all it's clear coat, I had one that had no clear or paint on the roof, so kudos to you. Now, if you did fix it, you could likely drive the vehicle the rest of it's life with nothing but a transmission rebuild and general repairs all Explorers need eventually. If it was mine, I'd fix it, heck I'm in your boat but with a head gasket, but I do my own work. If you're looking for the most practical thing, find yourself a 5.0 truck, it's clear you like the vehicle, and the 5.0s aren't too expensive when you can find one.

 

[Jungleboy084]

Scrap in 2012 was roughly $10/100 pounds, here in SC, now it runs $4.50/100 pounds, so basically, $200. I'd list it on Craigslist for $600, they sell quick like that here, aiming high always gets you what you want. It's also worth a mention, on an entirely different subject, that's a dark green Explorer, I haven't seen one in at least 2 years that had all it's clear coat, I had one that had no clear or paint on the roof, so kudos to you. Now, if you did fix it, you could likely drive the vehicle the rest of it's life with nothing but a transmission rebuild and general repairs all Explorers need eventually. If it was mine, I'd fix it, heck I'm in your boat but with a head gasket, but I do my own work. If you're looking for the most practical thing, find yourself a 5.0 truck, it's clear you like the vehicle, and the 5.0s aren't too expensive when you can find one.

How much would the labor cost for that, and if looking for just engines do the accessories swap over to the 5.0 from the 4.0? Or should I make sure if I’m buying just the engine that it has all accessories on it? This has got me thinking now.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I'm not aware of any shop that would undertake a 5.0 swap, that's mostly a DIY project. As for swapping it, there's an entire thread on what you need, and it's very clear and concise, link is here. It's an in depth swap.

So you want to convert to a 5.0? 5L swap for dummies

 

[96eb96]

KODA gave great advice.
I can't imagine putting serious money into an Explorer. A few hundred here and there, yeah. But thousands? And the transmission could be on borrowed time too. Unless you can DIY everything, I say get rid of it.

The SOHC issue was known for a long time, I bought mine in 2001 and the PO was a Ford tech and warned me never to buy one. Maybe things improved on the later SOHCs.

Being so pristine, I would test the waters with a mechanics special and look for a V8. I was in a pick and pull once, there was a v8 dropped off with 400K miles and the guys were revving it and it sounded like a new truck.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I have a 263K mile V8, factory engine, running 5K mile oil changes, doesn't use a drop, strong as new. I do think it'll sell well though, or at least if it was local for $400 or $500 I'd at least check it out, which I also have a low mile SOHC sitting in the shed I'm not doing anything with yet I got in a trade. I saw a V8 on the Copart auctions a while back with 702K miles, no clue on how many engines or transmissions it'd seen, but if I'd have had the time, or been licensed enough to buy it, I would've, just to see how it held up.

 

[pjtoledo]

where in Ohio is this Explorer? (don't tell my wife I asked)

 

[RandomNerd2000]

^Lmao I was gonna ask that eventually myself, I happen by trade to have a 136K 4.0 sitting in the shed that'd bolt in. (Not Selling)

 

[Jungleboy084]

It’s in the Canton Ohio area.

 

[pjtoledo]

Canton eh? I'm in Toledo so that means I would have to drive right by Summit Racing to get there. but,,, that means I'd probably spend allll my money at Summit!! not sure I can swing this past my "purchasing agent" so you're safe for now.