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Inspection Failure

steveazulay

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February 7, 2011
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cuberland RI
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 expoler eddy bower
Looking for help... I have a 96 Ford Explorer, 4.0. Check engine light was on. I had the code read - code was EGR valve low flow. I replaced the flow sensor, disconnected battery and the light went off. Drove 50-75 miles and went for inspection. Inspection failed due to heated oxygen sensor not ready, evap sensor not ready, oxygen sensor not ready, and catalytic converter sensor not ready. I followed the specific instructions (thru a drive cycle)on how to get these "ready" and sensors still not "ready" after a total of 750 miles. Only one of the sensors (the evap) is ready. Any thoughts??
 


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ejscarfo

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Islip, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Explorer XLT
750 miles and its still not ready? Something is seriously up. What concerns me is that you cleared the code by disconnecting the battery. Do you not have a code reader? That is actually the proper way to clear the code, but I'll stop the lecture. I am wondering if disconnecting the battery may have screwed with the readings of the PCM and the PCM may need to relearn everything now.

75 to 100 miles is usually enough to get a ready reading from the PCM for inspection. Did you try to have the PCM flashed? Or maybe try a different inspection station?
 




RomeovilleIL

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Illinois
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98 LTD, 00 XLT
Heres a link for the required driving to get your computer to run the tests: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//archive/index.php/t-263285.html

Basically, you have to engage in a number of different driving patterns including highway, traffic, etc. You may have driven a substantial number of miles but didn't have the "right kind" of driving to trigger a systems test.

Different inspection stations will get the same result from the testing equipment as it is done with computer readings as opposed to tailpipe tests.
 




Mbrooks420

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1998 Mountaineer AWD
There’s nothing wrong with disconnecting the battery to clear the codes. The computers will learn what they need in shot order. (Way before 750 miles)

I’d get under it and see if you can find any damaged wiring.
 




J_C

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Florence, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT 4WD 4.0L SOHC
^ Decade old topic, but, if you have to complete an elaborate drive cycle, wouldn't it be more right to use a scan tool instead, if you have one?

I vaguely recall something about forscan app for OBDII dongles won't reset codes with the free/trial version (will with paid version) but torque app will with the free version.
 








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