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install sub to factory stereo?




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With a line output convertor hooked to one of your speaker's wires, yes.
 


















That line output converter will definitely work...but will restrict your sound system...Invest another $100-150 dollars and get a legitimate HU with a sub line output...youll be glad you did.

Used to work at Best Buy as an installer, customers would constantly complain about the bad quality on those line output converters....not to mention they mess up your fade and balance. They came back and put a HU in...Do it right the first time and ull spend less haha.
 






line output converters work fine if you are just adding a sub. i put one in my fiance's hummer and it worked great until i got her a new head unit because she wanted navigation. how would a l.o.c. mess up fade/balance? if you are looking to save a little cash and get a budget system, a l.o.c. is a great way to do it.
 






If you tap into the speaker lines....impedance changes...although its not much...it is taking a load..laws of physics.

On a budget yes they work...if your not an audiophile i guess it wont matter.
 






Agreed. I've had LOC's in about 5 vehicles now, some with amps and subs, two with Bazooka tubes. If you're looking to fill in some lows and have a nice sounding full range system, there isn't anything wrong with them.

They will change your fade and balance because one of your speakers will have the sub hooked to the signal. If you're LR for example, if you balance to the right or fade to the front, you will lose some of your sub.

I've changed my balance and fade exactly never in my Ex. Just my personal thoughts, but I'd put one on a stock system in a heartbeat. Besides- I think Braden has a Gen III, late model- those are very nice head units to start with.
 






Yes, you're right....I Have been told I'm to picky when it comes to audio :/
 






Nah- nothing like that tek- not trying to poke and prod at all... just my opinion on what I've done. I've done the expensive systems when I was younger, and the shortcut systems while broke. It's all personal preference, I guess I just come from the "non-decibel competition" crowd where every level is measured and graphed- I just want "Seventeen" to rock HARD at traffic lights... LOL!

KipWinger.jpg
 






That line output converter will definitely work...but will restrict your sound system...Invest another $100-150 dollars and get a legitimate HU with a sub line output...youll be glad you did.

Used to work at Best Buy as an installer, customers would constantly complain about the bad quality on those line output converters....not to mention they mess up your fade and balance. They came back and put a HU in...Do it right the first time and ull spend less haha.

tekgarage's recommendation on buying a nice headunit is a good idea. I hate how the OEM headunit I have cuts bass at higher volumes :thumbdwn:

I wanted to keep my OEM headunit since I did not want to sink a bunch of money into the vehicle, and to avoid the minor/major headaches of switching to a non-OEM headunit.
 






It also converted the factory Ford 5V remote to a 12V remote, with turn-on delay.

please do tell . . . i'm using speaker inputs and it turns on automatically with a very slight thunk. . . i thought of switching over to 12v enable wire might fix it.
 






Can you use the headunit power wire to be your system turn on lead?
 






Stock HU is only 6v and it will NOT turn on my pioneer sub amp. . .i need to step it up to 12v.
 






Any other ideas on where to get a 12v accessory turn on lead from? The idea of a hardwired switch just makes me wanna cry:rolleyes:
 
























yea, that should work too, i went the lazy method, bought the box on fleabay, wires and ready to go, no guess work.
 



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I actually just found a 12v accessory lead behind me radio but if not i would have just just run the 5v back to the amp, rig the 12v side of the relay into the amp, ground it, then use the 5v as my turn on for the relay then the 12v out on the relay goes to the amp remote. Basically creating a very complicated switch.

for the record the relay was 5 dollars:)
 






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