This is a basic writeup. I'll include any tips and explanations I can think of so that anyone with any level of wiring experience can install these. My truck has an 8ft bed and the way I installed everything, you cannot see any lights or wires (or the switch) without having your head below the bed rails. Hiding them was a priority for me, but I still wanted the switch to be easy to get to inside or outside the bed and obviously light up everything.
1M long light strip with switch
1M long light strip without switch
1. Determine where you want to mount the lights. If you use my version with the 39" long strips I would suggest just centering 1 on each side of the bed (8ft bed). Orient the lights so that the wires coming out of them will face the rear of the truck. This creates less stress on the wires (no sharp bends) plus requires less wire.
a. After figuring out where the lights will go you can go ahead and mount them but I always wait to mount things until I get it all hooked up and confirm everything works.
2. Determine where you want to mount your switch. The strip from SBLs has ~2ft leader between the light strip and the switch. Put this light on the passenger side with the 12V outlet. If it can reach, run the extra wire to the 12V access hole. If there isn’t enough, don’t worry about it until Step14.
3. Determine where the rear end of each light will be and where the wires can go through the bedside without kinking (probably an inch or so from the light itself).
4. Drill a small hole just large enough for the wires to fit through. Keep in mind you will want the connectors to fit through too (So ~3/8” or so).
5. Remove the 12V housing from the bedside. I'm not sure how to do this on the 2nd gen STs but on my 1st gen the housing is only held in by a couple screws that you can access easily from the bed.
6. Pull the housing out and this should expose the 12V wiring in the back of the plug.
7. Figure out which wire is hot (12V) and which is ground. I actually think that this plug is protected by a fuse from the factory so you really don't need an inline fuse.
8. Using the T-splices, tap into the appropriate wires. I would run red=hot, black=ground for easy convention. Run a short ~3” pigtail out of each.
9. Run the red and black wires on the driver side between the bed wall and the rear fender out the access hole you drilled in Step 4. Pull enough so that there is ~6" extra. It's always best to have a small service loop in the event that you need to cut a connection and resplice it down the road. This also allows you to easily work with the connections in the open. You may need a wire coat hanger or some other form of a fish tape to feed the wires through.
10. Use a butt splice (or solder) to splice the red and black wires to the light strip on the driver side (the one without the switch). Heat shrink or wrap the connections in electrical tape.
11. Pull the excess wire through the hole and down the bedside over the wheel well liner to the rear.
12. Route the red and black wires around the rear of the truck and up to the 12V outlet access hole and secure with zip ties as you go where the wires will not get damaged.
13. If there wasn’t enough wire in Step 2, go ahead and repeat step 11 on the passenger side. Then feed the wires between the bed wall and fender out the 12V access hole.
14. Splice all 3 ground wires together. The easiest will be to put the ground wires from the light strips together in one side of the butt splice and crimp them down. Then, slide the other end onto the ground pigtail that was created in Step 8 and crimp that down. Your lights should now be grounded.
15. Splice all 3 hot wires together. Use the same method as Step 15. Your lights should now have a complete circuit!
16. Now would be a good time to test and make sure everything works. Flip the switch and hope to see the light!
a. If they don’t work, go through and check all connections. If all connections are good, check to make sure the fuse for the 12V outlet is not blown.
17. Once everything works, use rubbing alcohol and a rag to clean off the mounting areas of the lights and the switch.
18. Heat up the tape on the strips and the switch until it’s tacky and stick to the bedside. This lets the tape bond better.
19. Feed all the wires back into the bed wall and close up the access hole.
20. Enjoy being able to see in the bed at night!
1M long light strip with switch
1M long light strip without switch
1. Determine where you want to mount the lights. If you use my version with the 39" long strips I would suggest just centering 1 on each side of the bed (8ft bed). Orient the lights so that the wires coming out of them will face the rear of the truck. This creates less stress on the wires (no sharp bends) plus requires less wire.
a. After figuring out where the lights will go you can go ahead and mount them but I always wait to mount things until I get it all hooked up and confirm everything works.
2. Determine where you want to mount your switch. The strip from SBLs has ~2ft leader between the light strip and the switch. Put this light on the passenger side with the 12V outlet. If it can reach, run the extra wire to the 12V access hole. If there isn’t enough, don’t worry about it until Step14.
3. Determine where the rear end of each light will be and where the wires can go through the bedside without kinking (probably an inch or so from the light itself).
4. Drill a small hole just large enough for the wires to fit through. Keep in mind you will want the connectors to fit through too (So ~3/8” or so).
5. Remove the 12V housing from the bedside. I'm not sure how to do this on the 2nd gen STs but on my 1st gen the housing is only held in by a couple screws that you can access easily from the bed.
6. Pull the housing out and this should expose the 12V wiring in the back of the plug.
7. Figure out which wire is hot (12V) and which is ground. I actually think that this plug is protected by a fuse from the factory so you really don't need an inline fuse.
8. Using the T-splices, tap into the appropriate wires. I would run red=hot, black=ground for easy convention. Run a short ~3” pigtail out of each.
9. Run the red and black wires on the driver side between the bed wall and the rear fender out the access hole you drilled in Step 4. Pull enough so that there is ~6" extra. It's always best to have a small service loop in the event that you need to cut a connection and resplice it down the road. This also allows you to easily work with the connections in the open. You may need a wire coat hanger or some other form of a fish tape to feed the wires through.
10. Use a butt splice (or solder) to splice the red and black wires to the light strip on the driver side (the one without the switch). Heat shrink or wrap the connections in electrical tape.
11. Pull the excess wire through the hole and down the bedside over the wheel well liner to the rear.
12. Route the red and black wires around the rear of the truck and up to the 12V outlet access hole and secure with zip ties as you go where the wires will not get damaged.
13. If there wasn’t enough wire in Step 2, go ahead and repeat step 11 on the passenger side. Then feed the wires between the bed wall and fender out the 12V access hole.
14. Splice all 3 ground wires together. The easiest will be to put the ground wires from the light strips together in one side of the butt splice and crimp them down. Then, slide the other end onto the ground pigtail that was created in Step 8 and crimp that down. Your lights should now be grounded.
15. Splice all 3 hot wires together. Use the same method as Step 15. Your lights should now have a complete circuit!
16. Now would be a good time to test and make sure everything works. Flip the switch and hope to see the light!
a. If they don’t work, go through and check all connections. If all connections are good, check to make sure the fuse for the 12V outlet is not blown.
17. Once everything works, use rubbing alcohol and a rag to clean off the mounting areas of the lights and the switch.
18. Heat up the tape on the strips and the switch until it’s tacky and stick to the bedside. This lets the tape bond better.
19. Feed all the wires back into the bed wall and close up the access hole.
20. Enjoy being able to see in the bed at night!
