Installing a flat screen on a recessed model

[Jason Ferris]

I have a 2012 Ford Explorer. How hard is it to modify the brackets so you can use a flat screen vs a recessed one. Upgrading from Sync 2 to 3. I just want to know what level of difficulty it is before I spend the $$ on all the parts. Thanks!

 

[Zane8]

Hi Jason,

I just did this on my '16. I'll give you a few bullet points from my memory of doing it:

• I had a choice of modifying some brackets that came with the flat screen (unknown vehicle) or my '16 brackets. I chose to modify the '16 brackets since the four bracket holes (that mount to the dash frame) that came with the flat screen did not have the same hole center spacing. I would have had to come up with a method to secure the brackets down to the dash which would also come with the increased risk that the screen would not be centered correctly.
  
• The '16 brackets have dimples on the inside that are used as alignment guides for attachment to the recessed screen. Those need to be filed off as there is no corresponding holes in the side of the flat screen. Leaving them would prevent the bracket from sitting flat.
• The flat sided screen has dimples on the outside as alignment guides to whatever bracket came with it. These needed to be accommodated on the '16 brackets. I chose to create holes for them on the '16 brackets rather than grind or file on a new screen. I'd rather wreck a bracket than a screen.
• The mounting holes for the flat screen are in different locations that the recessed screen. There was no choice but to remove the Sync 2 unit and sit it next to the Sync 3 unit and carefully plan and measure the locations to drill into the '16 bracket. This is the hardest part.
• There are pin guides at the bottom of the brackets that go into the dash. Others have ground those brackets off, but I chose to keep them. I think they help secure the unit to the dash and certainly helped with checking alignment during trial fits.
• The '16 brackets mounted to the flat screen push the locations of the four bracket dash holes out since the flat screen is about 1/4" wider. The result is that you have to slot the bracket holes back to the inside to allow the bolts to attach to the dash.
• The flat screen bracket was attached with T-8 screws that were flat head. The '16 brackets use T-20 for countersunk holes. The thread size was the same.
  I ended up using the T-8 screws so I didn't have to countersink the bracket holes. The original hole locations on the '16 brackets have a bit of material that has to be filed off just like the alignment guides mentioned above. Again, this is to ensure that the '16 bracket sits flat.

So, degree of difficulty depends on what you think of my example of the level of work.

I think if you take your time and measure carefully, it can be done without great difficulty.
Others may have better ideas. To me, it was worth the effort to save considerable money versus a more plug-and-play recessed screen installation.

Z

 

[RhinoQuartz]

I can't believe I get to use this -

 

[Zane8]

I can't believe I get to use this -

You're right. Mods - feel free to delete my worthless post.

Z

 

[RhinoQuartz]

You're right. Mods - feel free to delete my worthless post.

Z

I'm just kidding, sorry. It is a really informative post actually, so thank you for your contribution!

 

[peterk9]

As mentioned, it is still an informative post, although pictures would have been helpful.

Peter

 

[Zane8]

No worries. In hindsight, it would have been good to take a few.

 

[BlackHelmet]

I did this, I posted pictures in my thread here: Sync 3 bracket modification

I hope that helps.