Installing new deck with factory amp removed. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Installing new deck with factory amp removed.

IB Pimpin

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It wasn't plugged up because the pins on the back of the radio are not there anymore, Apparently someone broke them off at some point in the past. My question is can I install a new deck without reinstalling the factory amp? Someone told me that I needed an amp bypass. Why do I need to bypass an amp that wasn't hooked up in the first place and that isn't being reinstalled? I don't need the amp. I have just been listening to the radio without the sub. I previously thought that I needed a new sub but the amp isn't even hooked up to the back of the radio. Radio still works fine aside from not having much bass.
 



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If your getting sound from the speakers with your headunit, then someone must have already bypassed the amp.

Or they could have just possibly ran all new speaker wire to each speaker, but if your wiring was right, then youd need the connector to bypass the stock amp.

What year and trim level is your ex?
 






If your getting sound from the speakers with your headunit, then someone must have already bypassed the amp.

Or they could have just possibly ran all new speaker wire to each speaker, but if your wiring was right, then youd need the connector to bypass the stock amp.

What year and trim level is your ex?

I hae a 2000 Explorer Limited with the factory amp and sub. The amp is completeld disconnected and sitting in a trash pile. I still get sound from the other speakers. In fact on the factory radio where the amp connector hooks up there aren't any pins coming out if the radio. It was "plugged" in but wasn't doing anything because the pins are not there. At first I thought the sub was blown. So I tried to hook another speaker up to it and nothing happened. So I pulled the radio out and discovered the problem with the connector and pins and connector on the back of the radio. I think there were three connectors on the radio. The amp connector is the smaller one right? I think it had four or five wires on it.
 






Im not sure what years the headunits changed in, but I know the 95's headunit was basically a "controller" and the "amp" that was in the back was the brains, the antenna hooked up to it even. I believe they changed that and made the stock amp, just an AMP in the newer model years like yours, but maybe the amp is only for the sub?

Can you get a picture of the connections you have behind your headunit deck? (Pic of the harness, AND the back of the unit)
 












If your getting sound from the speakers with your headunit, then someone must have already bypassed the amp.

Or they could have just possibly ran all new speaker wire to each speaker, but if your wiring was right, then youd need the connector to bypass the stock amp.

What year and trim level is your ex?

O and I am getting sound with the factory radio without the amp being hooked up. I haven't installed the aftermarket hu yet.
 






The only thing I can think of, is that your amp is only for the sub. If I remember correctly, both 95's I had that had premium JBL stock systems, had 2 amps, one for the speakers/headunit, and a smaller silver one for the sub.

Thats the only thing that sounds right to me if your wirings not chopped up and modded.
 






The only thing I can think of, is that your amp is only for the sub. If I remember correctly, both 95's I had that had premium JBL stock systems, had 2 amps, one for the speakers/headunit, and a smaller silver one for the sub.

Thats the only thing that sounds right to me if your wirings not chopped up and modded.

I know it is only for the sub. I just want to know what happened to the pins? Is it possible to install an amp and two 12 inch subs by splicing in to the the door speaker wires since I can't splice in to the factory sub wires because they aren't conected to the factory radio?
 






If you are installing a new deck (head unit) the you should just run new wiring for the amp. You will get much better sound than with the factory wiring. If you are keeping the factory deck you can get the signal from the rear speaker wire, depending on your new amp (You still need to run power and ground for the new amp and pick up remote power from somewhere)
 






If you are installing a new deck (head unit) the you should just run new wiring for the amp. You will get much better sound than with the factory wiring. If you are keeping the factory deck you can get the signal from the rear speaker wire, depending on your new amp (You still need to run power and ground for the new amp and pick up remote power from somewhere)

I will be using the factory radio for a few more weeks. I alraedy know about running the power, ground, and control wire for the new amp. Now I just need a way to get the audio signal from the factory radio. When you say rear speaker, I hope you mean the rear door speaker because I can't splice the subwoofer wiring because I can't connect the sub wiring to the factory radio. Someone told me that if I used any other speaker wire besides the rear sub wiring that it wouldn't sound right because the door speakers don't get low sounds. They only get high an mid sounds. Is this true?
 






I will be using the factory radio for a few more weeks. I alraedy know about running the power, ground, and control wire for the new amp. Now I just need a way to get the audio signal from the factory radio. When you say rear speaker, I hope you mean the rear door speaker because I can't splice the subwoofer wiring because I can't connect the sub wiring to the factory radio. Someone told me that if I used any other speaker wire besides the rear sub wiring that it wouldn't sound right because the door speakers don't get low sounds. They only get high an mid sounds. Is this true?
Your head unit is calibrated to use the sub for bass and not the door speakers. If you hook the sub up to the rear speakers its going to sound like ****. You can either open up the head unit and solder new pins (but thats probably more trouble than its worth), buy a replacement factory head unit (that has pins for your plug), or buy an after market head unit.
 






Good point on the head unit only sending mid and highs to the door speakers... I hate factory stereo systems...
 






What is the model number on the original Ford radio? Chances are someone replaced the original radio with a downgraded radio which doesn't have an output for the rear amplifier (small connector). That would probably be the reason the pins are missing and probably not removed. Basically in 98 and up most Ford Explorer radios have an internal amplifier built into the head unit that powers the front and read door speakers. The premium upgrade radios such as yours (Mach unit) have an external amplifier in the rear which is used only for the rear sub woofer speaker. You could tap into the output line wires in the rear where the amplifier use to be (correct low bass output) and add an external amplifier with new sub woofer(s). Such connections for external amplifier with sub woofer have been discussed numerous times on this forum and can be found by doing the "search" function.

Here's an post just made by Joe Dirt. It's probably what you should follow for an external aftermarket amp with sub woofer. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292595
 






What is the model number on the original Ford radio? Chances are someone replaced the original radio with a downgraded radio which doesn't have an output for the rear amplifier (small connector). That would probably be the reason the pins are missing and probably not removed. Basically in 98 and up most Ford Explorer radios have an internal amplifier built into the head unit that powers the front and read door speakers. The premium upgrade radios such as yours (Mach unit) have an external amplifier in the rear which is used only for the rear sub woofer speaker. You could tap into the output line wires in the rear where the amplifier use to be (correct low bass output) and add an external amplifier with new sub woofer(s). Such connections for external amplifier with sub woofer have been discussed numerous times on this forum and can be found by doing the "search" function.

Here's an post just made by Joe Dirt. It's probably what you should follow for an external aftermarket amp with sub woofer. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292595

Ok lets say I do have the incorrect radio because of the lack of subwoofer pins and I do tap into the output lines in the rear where the amp used to be. Ho do I go about hooking these wires to this incorrect radio with missing pins? When my brother gets back in a few with the X I will get the part number on the radio.
 






Another point, correct me if im wrong, If it was the correct radio then disconnecting the factory amp would result in getting no sound from the door speakers. Right?
 












I'm sorry to confuse you but I was assuming you have the correct radio (Mach) with the extra sub woofer connection on the back of your radio. Without the correct radio with the sub woofer connection, I know of no way to add the sub woofer connections by modifying the non sub woofer radio. Most people who add an external after market sub woofer either use the Ford radio (Mach unit) which has the built in extra sub woofer connector on the rear of the radio or buy an aftermarket radio which has an separate extra output just meant for an external sub woofer.
The amplifier you have in the rear cargo area in your 2000 Ex is not for the door speakers. The door speakers are powered (amplified) by the radio head unit which has a built in internal amplifier. Most earlier Explorers such as 95-97 had an external amplifier(s) in the rear cargo area which powered the door speaker and a sub woofer if equipped. They were the units that sometimes depending on the model, required the "Bypass" of the rear amplifier. You do not have that system.
I'm guessing someone changed your radio to one without sub woofer output which would mean it plays fine throughout all the door speakers but would lack real bass since it doesn't have a separate sub woofer connection output. So disconnecting the rear amplifier connector doesn't effect the door speakers in your vehicle. In earlier models (not yours) they depended on the external rear amplifier to power the door speakers so if you disconnect the rear amplifier the door speakers go dead. This is where the "bypass" was needed to reconnect the door speakers.
I know this is information about needing an "bypass" or if you have external rear amplifier is confusing. Ford somehow kept changing models and type of radio systems which confuses many people. This is no reflection on you or anyone else on this forum and sometimes the wrong information is passed on because the radios all look basically the same on the outside.
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I'm sorry to confuse you but I was assuming you have the correct radio (Mach) with the extra sub woofer connection on the back of your radio. Without the correct radio with the sub woofer connection, I know of no way to add the sub woofer connections by modifying the non sub woofer radio. Most people who add an external after market sub woofer either use the Ford radio (Mach unit) which has the built in extra sub woofer connector on the rear of the radio or buy an aftermarket radio which has an separate extra output just meant for an external sub woofer.
The amplifier you have in the rear cargo area in your 2000 Ex is not for the door speakers. The door speakers are powered (amplified) by the radio head unit which has a built in internal amplifier. Most earlier Explorers such as 95-97 had an external amplifier(s) in the rear cargo area which powered the door speaker and a sub woofer if equipped. They were the units that sometimes depending on the model, required the "Bypass" of the rear amplifier. You do not have that system.
I'm guessing someone changed your radio to one without sub woofer output which would mean it plays fine throughout all the door speakers but would lack real bass since it doesn't have a separate sub woofer connection output. So disconnecting the rear amplifier connector doesn't effect the door speakers in your vehicle. In earlier models (not yours) they depended on the external rear amplifier to power the door speakers so if you disconnect the rear amplifier the door speakers go dead. This is where the "bypass" was needed to reconnect the door speakers.
I know this is information about needing an "bypass" or if you have external rear amplifier is confusing. Ford somehow kept changing models and type of radio systems which confuses many people. This is no reflection on you or anyone else on this forum and sometimes the wrong information is passed on because the radios all look basically the same on the outside.
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So since the radio doesn't have a sub hook up does that mean it also wouldn't have the low pass filter built in meaning that I can splice into the door speaker wires and get good bass to my two 12s?
 






1L2F-18C868-BB is my radio's part number

So far it looks like this is a radio out of a newer Ford Explorer (2002-2003) without the output connector for an external sub woofer. This is basically one level down from the premium unit which is called an "Mach". The "Mach" units are available but most people didn't know or notice the difference when they went to replace the radio unit. Once again since most of the radios look the same and fitted, most were given the more available non mach radio.
Many of the "Mach" units are known to have trouble with their LED display going bad (going blank, not showing station on display) which caused people to change them out. The end results were probably just like what happen to you, the new owner finding somehow the rear sub woofer wasn't working for some unknown reason (wrong radio).
If you want real bass, then just tapping into the rear speakers will not give you good bass. They don't have the low bass filter built in. Tapping in would be a waste for the two 12's. I know it can be a little intimidating but do a search and you will find many have more exact info on adding an external amplifier.
 



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