Installing the FS10 Clutch Assembly for AC?

[beach]

Lo and behold another thread of mine, just doesn't end with this truck lol. So got a new clutch assembly to put on since mine is bad both bearing wise and clutch wise, FS10 replacement for this truck. Yet instructions nor videos say anything about installing it (basically just put back on, not mentioning the design difference). So on the left you have the original clutch and plate and design, so how the heck do you bolt on the new one? New one doesn't have a clutch plate like the original does. On Advance Auto site this what showed fitting this truck. Do you just use the old bolt and bolt it on, like maybe this is the new clutch design vs old one? There are models like the old one looks, but those don't fit the truck for whatever reason.

Here's the link for the Explorer version:
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...embly-w-coil-47881/18891068-P?searchTerm=Fs10

 

[beach]

Nobody has put a new clutch assembly on their compressor? Can't wait any longer, guess I'll just see what happens.... if it doesn't work, truck is going to the junk yard :roll: lol.

 

[beach]

Couple hours later, one broken snap ring plier, two broken bits, still can't get the snap ring out of the $&#*@ pulley. Moved transmission lines, pullies etc.... one again almost no room once grabbed to pull it out b/c of the angle. Cannot figure it out. Neighbor has a mechanic working on his boat right now out back, had him come over to try, even he could get it out and was kinda stumped. Cleaned it out with brake cleaner to get rid of grease, have tried filing the tips to grip better, no go.

After the last month working on this truck, who would have thought an American Truck would be harder then a foreign exotic to work on:scratch: lol

 

[beach]

Mother of god, finally got it out. Problem was only one side would budge, so no matter what you did with snap ring pliers only one side would pop. Took guy working on neighbors boat and myself and neighbor holding mirror same time while slowly pry with a flat head and the pliers. Would have been easier if the holes were facing up towards the side vs bottom where you almost can't grab even with angled tips.

Now another problem, can't get the pulley off and none of the auto parts stores have a rental puller that fits, nor one to buy. Even if bought, don't even think any will fit except a small one b/c of how little space there is. But the small ones mouth are too small for the pulley. Any ideas? Saw a vid of someone slowly prying and pull G with a pry bar, but not having luck doing that. Even let it set with PB oil.

Mangled snap ring culprit

 

[beach]

3:30 and still trying to pry this $&#@"* off

 

[beach]

And in the continuing saga of these trucks. Of course the new replacement assembly that "fits" these trucks, does not fit, not even close. The new field coil is about a centimeter and half too small. All part #s are correct. Advance said it has to fit as its labeled as, showed them and the guys were like ughhhh?!? Went to two other auto stores, same exact thing, how the f' does an "exact replacement" assembly not fit? No need for a new compressor as mine was tested and in perfect working order. So pissed, little stuff like this makes me want to have a perfectly working truck taken to the junkyard b/c of normal maintenance items that have turned into a nightmare, think this is the 4th or 5th time having incorrect "replacement" parts or sourcing parts.

 

[koda2000]

I did the clutch on my 2000 5.0 Mountaineer about 2 years ago. Hardest part was getting at the snap ring, but I didn't have same issue as you encountered. I bought the new clutch from Advance on-line. Came the next afternoon and fit perfectly. I usually shop AZ and I had looked at the AZ clutch, but there was something about it I didn't like (don't recall what).

You removed the small (10mm?) bolt from the center of the pulley, right? The pulley/clutch assembly just slides on the front of the A/C housing. I just wiggled mine off with a couple of long screw drivers. You don't need a puller. Try spraying the front of the A/C housing where it goes into the clutch with penetrant.

Tip: When installing the new pulley and clutch, there are an assortment of small spacers that keep the two pieces separated when not engaged. The instructions give you a measurement you're supposed to follow, which I tried to do, but I ended up having to re-remove the pulley the next day to add a thicker space. I think the clutch part moved forward a hair after installation. It was making a grinding noise and creating metal filings when disengaged.

All-in-all, I'd rate the job about a 3 on the difficulty scale, with 10 being the most difficult.

 

[beach]

I did the clutch on my 2000 5.0 Mountaineer about 2 years ago. Hardest part was getting at the snap ring, but I didn't have same issue as you encountered. I bought the new clutch from Advance on-line. Came the next afternoon and fit perfectly.

You removed the small (10mm?) bolt from the center of the pulley, right? the pulley/clutch assembly just slides on the from of the A/C housing. I just wiggled mine off with a couple of long screw drivers. You don't need a puller. Try spraying the front of the A/C housing where it goes into the clutch with penetrant.

Tip: When installing the new pulley and clutch, there are an assortment of small spacers that keep the two pieces separated when not engaged. The instructions give you a measurement you're supposed to follow, which I tried to do, but I ended up having to re-remove the pulley the next day to add a thicker space. I think the clutch part moved forward a hair after installation.

I had to pry mine off with a bar, yeah the bolt was easy, all i did was use a flat head to hold the clutch and get the bolt off, clutch/plate came off easy. Snap ring was a royal beotch as it was upside down at an angle, ended up having to buy another snap ring plier and multiple tips to get at it. Rate my experience an 8 out of 10 lol, took over an hour of prying to get the pulley and coil off, already let sit with penetrating oil, wouldn't budge.

Yeah already have my flat feeler gauge to set air gap, thought I was almost home free...till I went to install the new assembly, only to find the coil doesn't fit like in the pic above your post, its like dead even with the compressor vs fitting into the gap. Went to two different other auto stores, same assembly (FS10 #47881 for Explorers), all the same issue, the coil is too small. Advance wasn't much help, online tech said I'm missing the master clutch slave cylinder that goes with it.... huh?!?! Sends me the part #, I'm like man thats a transmission slave cylinder. Have to have my local store call manufacturer and see what they say, god knows how long this will take especially since autozone and pep both carry the same exact thing for this truck, and same ill fitting coil.

 

[koda2000]

I had to pry mine off with a bar, yeah the bolt was easy, all i did was use a flat head to hold the clutch and get the bolt off, clutch/plate came off easy. Snap ring was a royal beotch as it was upside down at an angle, ended up having to buy another snap ring plier and multiple tips to get at it. Rate my experience an 8 out of 10 lol, took over an hour of prying to get the pulley and coil off, already let sit with penetrating oil, wouldn't budge.

Yeah already have my flat feeler gauge to set air gap, thought I was almost home free...till I went to install the new assembly, only to find the coil doesn't fit like in the pic above your post, its like dead even with the compressor vs fitting into the gap. Went to two different other auto stores, same assembly (FS10 #47881 for Explorers), all the same issue, the coil is too small. Advance wasn't much help, online tech said I'm missing the master clutch slave cylinder that goes with it.... huh?!?! Sends me the part #, I'm like man thats a transmission slave cylinder. Have to have my local store call manufacturer and see what they say, god knows how long this will take especially since autozone and pep both carry the same exact thing for this truck, and same ill fitting coil.

I'll see if I still have the part number from the assembly I used.

Found it. It shows Part No 47881

 

[beach]

I'll see if I still have the part number from the assembly I used.

Found it. It shows Part No 47881

Yup I have the 47881 assembly, doesn't fit. Coil is like 1-2cm too small (like pic in post #6 above), measured at Autozone and Pepboys also. Same issue, even brought the original with me to show and they were all stumped like yeah thats not gonna fit....

Even Ebay and Amazon list this as exact replacement. This is totally odd and even more odd that two different stores also had the same assembly that won't fit. Compressor is factory, never been replaced, I'm the original owner.... unless my truck somehow has a 1 of 1 unique compressor from the factory :scratch: lol

 

[koda2000]

Have you tried looking up a year newer or older to see if it lists the same part #?

 

[beach]

Have you tried looking up a year newer or older to see if it lists the same part #?

Yeah, 47881 is the model for all 96-01 5.0 Explorers/Mountaineers

 

[Bobmbx]

I notice your high side fill valve is missing its cap. You'll want to get one.

And that leads me to this question: You're absolutely positive the compressor has never been changed? I don't doubt you, but I suspect its not a factory unit. Was there maybe some warranty work early on? BTW, what year/model is it?

Can you find a part number or any kind of identifying mark on the compressor?

 

[beach]

I notice your high side fill valve is missing its cap. You'll want to get one.

And that leads me to this question: You're absolutely positive the compressor has never been changed? I don't doubt you, but I suspect its not a factory unit. Was there maybe some warranty work early on? BTW, what year/model is it?

Can you find a part number or any kind of identifying mark on the compressor?

Lol funny you noticed that, it popped off at some point when I was tearing away at stuff under the hood and have no idea where it went, have it marked down to get another lol. Yeah compressor was never changed or messed with. 2000 rwd Mounty 5.0 , was the dealer car/demo, got it with like 600 miles on it in 01'.

So good news, hopefully. Went back to my Advance store, they pulled their other FS10 clutch assemblies, sure enough all the 47881 were all different. Meaning either at the manufacturer or wherever their assembled somebody/machine royally screwed up in packaging. Here we had my 47881 and 3 others, all completely different sizes. When I measured at Pepboys and Autozone, same thing except I didn't check how many they had, pulled out a 47881 and measure and was different from the one I had and the factory one. If that just happened to me at these stores, just imagine all the others around the country or world, pry thousands of these mislabeled and packaged incorrectly.

I looked at the picture I had on my phone of the measurement and one of them seemed about the same when measured, so hopefully this one will work tomorrow. Checked when I got home, and it seems to be the right one.

edit - happen to know the valve cap part # for high side fill? Can't seem to find on Advance site

 

[Bobmbx]

edit - happen to know the valve cap part # for high side fill? Can't seem to find on Advance site

Junkyard.....any car with a 134a AC system will be the right size.

 

[beach]

Junkyard.....any car with a 134a AC system will be the right size.

Junkyards are way to far, in South FL the only decent ones are way south of me and way the f' out west. And knowing them, being South FL, they'll pry want 30-40 bucks. Junkyards down here are pretty useless, charge same or more then what new parts cost for old beat up parts lol. Plus other truck is being borrowed and wife needs her car, luckily I work from home lol. Had wife's car today as she was home.

Found this, would it be in this?:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0-P?navigationPath=L1*14922|L2*15015|L3*15832

 

[koda2000]

AZ stocked/sold a package of replacement A/C caps. They were inexpensive and should have the one you need in the package. I keep forgetting to pick up a package for my '97, as both the HI & LO side caps are missing. Those valves are notorious for leaking and the caps help prevent this besides keeping the dirt out. Where I live, anything with a hole in it is prime real estate for a mud wasp nest.

 

[beach]

AZ stocked/sold a package of replacement A/C caps. They were inexpensive and should have the one you need in the package. I keep forgetting to pick up a package for my '97, as both the HI & LO side caps are missing. Those valves are notorious for leaking and the caps help prevent this besides keeping the dirt out. Where I live, anything with a hole in it is prime real estate for a mud wasp nest.

Ahhhhh the good ol' Mud Daubers, get them down here. They love garage ceilings for whatever reason.

Advance is closer, wonder if this has the right caps
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0-P?navigationPath=L1*14922|L2*15015|L3*15832

 

[Bobmbx]

Advance is closer, wonder if this has the right caps
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...0-P?navigationPath=L1*14922|L2*15015|L3*15832

Yes. All 134a systems use the same size. You could snag them off a buddy's Chevy if you want

 

[beach]

Well today is the day lol, lets see if this works. This appears to be the right one after measuring. How crazy is it that at multiple (different companies) stores the 47881 clutch assembly was not just the wrong size, it was completely differetn sizes, like I would have thought oh their all X size vs X... nope, they were X, B, Z, D, whatever sizes lol. Some serious issues wherever their prepped and packaged.

Literally four 47881 Ford FS10 clutch assemblies at one store, all completely different sizes... least one of them seemed correct lol

I think the reason the pulley and coil was such a beotch to get off, the bearing had lost like 1/4 of the balls which basically self destructed over time and the metal shavings jammed it, even though it would still spin fine with the serpentine belt, getting it off was a completely different story. Had to go at it from the top left, to right, to bottom under the car on each corner using the compressor bolts as support with the crow bar, what a pain.