Installing TM Headers, Running into Some Problems

[duke16]

I'm having some issues while installing my Torque Monster headers. Right now I can't for the life of me remove the manifold to downpipe bolt on the driver's side, closest to the center of the truck. It's completely rusted in place, and even with copious amounts of liquid wrench, the thing will not budge. At this point I think it's probably pretty well rounded. I managed to get the other out without to much pain. I think the problem may be that I can't get a straight shot at it because the driveshaft is in the way. But, I also can't get the driveshaft down. I keep bending allen wrenches. I was thinking of holing it out, but again the driveshaft is in my way. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[wpurple]

I used a MAPP torch and heated them up pretty good and they finally came loose.

 

[hunterdan]

Those don't appear to be allen bolts, but rather TORX bolts on the driveshaft. They have more of a star shape than hex shape. If the head of the bolt is to rounded to use a socket, try the sears bolt out if you can pound it on, it should grab and loosen it up.

Dan

 

[duke16]

Pardon my ignorance, but.. what's a "sears bolt?"

 

[Runesai]

http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000...0?_encoding=UTF8&searsBrand=core&mqnodeid=APS

used for getting rounded and damaged bolts out. Works pretty well.

 

[expo5.0]

I had to cut my bolt off- sawzall works just fine!

 

[proftomda]

I have a 2wd so the driveshaft thing wasnt a issue. It looks like the driveshaft nuts are simply regular nuts, maybee I'm missing something. As far as the downpipe bolts are concerned... They are not easy but at this point, short of heating them up with a torch, which is a good idea, you need to be using a 1/2 inch impact wrench, long extensions, a wobble, and maybee try the next smaller metric socket and pounding it on the bolt. Hand wrenches are not going to work. You need the consistant pounding of a impact and make sure the socket is fully seated.. Good luck!

 

[duke16]

Is the hole threaded on the exhaust, or just the header?

 

[expo5.0]

my headers came with replacement bolts, didn't yours?

seriously, just cut it.

 

[duke16]

I had no room to cut, and no sawzall. But I finally managed to bash it out, thank god.

On the passenger side, how did you guys get the manifold to downpipe bolt on the inside off? Did you come from under or from the fender? I just can't seem to get the right angle and torque.

 

[expo5.0]

cut it (i ended up cutting every bolt but one when i did my headers)

the trick to cut the drivers side one was to put the front end up on jack stands and go at it from below. wouldn't help without a sawzall though.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The inner bolt of the passenger manifold can be removed easily. Remove all of the bolts that hold the manifold to the block. Loosen or remove the outer bolt. Then spin the manifold around to make the inner bolt easily accessible.

 

[duke16]

I can't seem to get it to rotate anywhere right now, I'm thinking I may need to remove the remains of my EGR tube. Right now it's snapped in half and I was hoping I could just remove the header with it still attached, because I don't have anything large enough to remove it. Oh well, back to work.

 

[410Fortune]

the passenger side manifold to down pipe bolt on the inside can be gotten with a 1/2" drive, extension and wobbly from just around the side of the cat converter.

I hope the truck is on ramps or jack stands during this process, because the more room you give yourself down there the easier it is to get the correct approach at these bolts.

 

[duke16]

I've managed to get to it now, but I just can't get the torque required. And I can't fit any air gun in there. I'll give it another stab tomorrow. It is jacked up.

I do have one other issue that I've been putting off, a spark plug is stuck. It looks like it's jammed in to far. Does anyone have any tricks to remove it? I have a spark plug socket but just can't get any grip on the spark plug.

 

[Turdle]

I got my bolt like this
MR goodwrench 6" wobble extension, from O'rielly auto parts, ingersoll air ratchet

 

[expo5.0]

jtsmith- that is very similar to how i tightened mine

 

[Turdle]

jtsmith- that is very similar to how i tightened mine

How do they sound BTW?

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

The inner bolt of the passenger manifold can be removed easily. Remove all of the bolts that hold the manifold to the block. Loosen or remove the outer bolt. Then spin the manifold around to make the inner bolt easily accessible.

This is a really clever idea, if the manifold-to-downpipe connection is free enough.

I was able to get a socket and traditional ratchet in similar to how jtsmith used the air ratchet. However, there was some cursing and skinning knuckles, and next time I'd totally use the air ratchet. That's a winner.

Duke,

Only the manifold is threaded, so you could even sawz-all the actual manifold to get it out.

Definitely remove the front d-shaft, it makes life so much easier on the driver's side. The bolts have a Torx-50 head (I think). Any autoparts store will have a Torx bit set. Get it, many bolts on our trucks are Torx.

As for the sparkplug, try removing the metal heatshield first, often times the sparkplug socket can't seat fully on the plug due to the shield's constriction. Friction is the only thing holding the shield in, just yank and twist with some vise grips.

 

[duke16]

Well I finally got the last bolt out. Of course now I can't get that damn spark plug heat shield off. It's like someone welded it to the block or something, all the others came off fine.

I have the drivers side all hooked up but I can't see where the dipstick hole is, does anyone have a picture of the engine block bare so I can see the hole?