Installing TM Headers, Running into Some Problems | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Installing TM Headers, Running into Some Problems

What I ended up doing was going back, removing the header from the block and tightening the nut. It worked for a while, but I don’t recommend it. Definitely tighten that nut up!

410- I did have to lift my motor to get the header between my frame and block. There was no way to get it in there otherwise.
 



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you can take the ac pump off :)
 












The problem I'm having is I can't actually get an open ended wrench around the nut, let alone a closed offset. The nut is to close to the header and I can't move it enough to get it off the nut.
 












Well the headers still unbolted, but there really isn't to much wiggle room.
 






Tie something to the header to lift and hold it up. You may be able to remove some of the foil like insulation from the heater box to get some extra room. There are 2 or 3 small screws that hold it on. I had to take mine off during my install. Or you can put a bar or something over your frame and under your down pipe and pry it upward. I did that and got the room I needed the second time around.
 






On stock trucks, lifting the engine helps alot. I was able to easily tighten the nut by buying an 18mm offset box wrench, I mention the wrench, and raising the engine, in my writeup (cough cough, you should read it).

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129083

For your ease, here is the wrench In Use:
1342235_retightening_engine_mount_nuts.jpg
 






Oh I've been using both yours and mountains writeups the entire time, and they've both helped. But I just don't seem to have the room you guys must have had. I have my 18 offset wrench and that worked great for the front nut, but I can't get it over that rear nut no matter what I do. I'll probably try mountains two suggestions tomorrow and see how that goes.
 






What I ended up doing was lifting the header, using an open ended wrench and turning the nut in small increments. I bought a flex ended ratchet wrench to tighten the nut after reading V8boatbuilders thread because I couldn't find a offset boxed end wrench. But, I could not get either of the closed end wrenches over the nut. It took a while to tighten it with the open ended wrench, but I got it done. Don't forget to remove the heat shield on the heater box.
 






Here is a picture of the heat shield you need to remove. It is fairly thick, so removing it will help you lift the header up more to access the nut. You can see one of the screws that holds it on in the picture. Good luck.
Day_2_037_Medium_.jpg
 






The easiest way to tighten the rear engine mount nut is to hold the header up as much as possible (tie it up or use something to hold it up). Then use a flat open end wrench (18mm) and come in from the back. You can come accross the chassis and turn the nut all the way over the top of the starter near the block. It's a bit time consuming but works well.

If you don't have a body lift, you will need to loosen the engine mount nuts to get the Header in. Now there are many ways to do things. I've had customers do more radical things like cutting the tops off the engine mount studs so they were even with the top of the nut and another customer took his valve cover off on that side and pulled the front of the Header high enough to get a universal socket and extention down in there to tighten the nuts. I don't recommend the more radical alternatives.

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers
 






rcpasq said:
...and another customer took his valve cover off on that side and pulled the front of the Header high enough to get a universal socket and extention down in there to tighten the nuts.

This actually seems like an excellent idea. If one was able to get a socket and universal to the nuts, then one could also put a torque wrench on the nuts, to assure the are re-torqued to the proper, 95ft-lbs setting.

The VC's removal would also allow for more room to tilt the header into place. Luckily, access to the passenger side VC is "relatively" free once the air intake is removed, so this should be an easy thing to to. Worst case, the upper intake can come off as well. These extra steps might well save time in the long run.

Just remember to put tin foil over the valves, to prevent debris from entering the valve-train and oil paths.
 






I finally managed to get the engine mount nuts tight, thank god. But I've run into a snag while doing the EGR tube. The double threaded piece that connects to the header and tube is stuck on the header. I originally bolted it one way but couldn't get things to line up correctly, so I tried flipping it over and still things wouldn't line up. I've now gone back to one of the writeups and noticed that I had it right the first time, but now I can't get it off the header. Does it have some special threading to make it so it doesn't come off or something?
 






I dont believe that it has any special threading. One end is a flare type fitting that connects to the EGR tube. The other end is a pipe thread type. What I ended up doing was loosely putting the fitting on the egr tube, so that it was threaded nearly all the way in but could still turn. Then start the fitting in the header and tighen to the header. Then tighten the nut on the EGR tube to the fitting.

If you have cross threaded the pipe thread style end into the header, try to leave it alone and tighen the EGR tube to the fitting. Try your best not to take it out. You may never get it back in.
 






As it stands I don't see how the EGR tube will line up, I actually ordered one from Bob that doesn't have the bendable part.

So the threads on either side are actually different?

The thing is it really didn't look like it was going to line up when the thing was the right way up.
 












Well now that the double threaded bolt is upside down it, the tube doesn't even have the hight to reach the connection. Plus it seems like it's a little bit to far back to reach the hole, and this was the same when I had the bolt the right way up. I can't really get a clear shot for a photo.

I guess if there's no way to get this bolt out I'll have to just cap it and hope it'll pass inspections.

At this point though, I don't mind having to buy a new bolt off Bob. So if there was a way to get it off, even if it would destroy the bolt that's fine. As long as the header doesn't get ruined.
 






I had to fit my egr tube at least 7 times to get the bends just right. I used a vice and several trips back and forth, being very careful not to bend the tube in too great of increments, spreading the bend over a span instead of one point. It is tricky, and a little time consuming, just go slow, be patient.

I wish I could see the tube,

Is it the fitting you are having trouble with? Get a wrench on it and tap with a hammer ( not hit) till it loosens?
 



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geesh I bought a new tube from ford and bent it with my hands in about 3 minutes to get it to fit....no problem...
 






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