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Installing TM headers tomorrow any pic requests?

Did he use the stock gaskets?
 



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get pics of the header to steering clearance
I am curious to see the different steering intermediate shafts and where they end up in relation to the TM headers...

on my truck that was a nighmare, the 96 with TM headers and a 3" body lift that had been neglected, the steering bolt was IN the header tube basically

Do these show what you are asking for?
 

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Did he use the stock gaskets?

I should have said the driver side MANIFOLD is off

The leak was in the stock gasket--yes--on the stock manifold--

Both headers are in. We need to eat and drink some beers before ttacking the upper manifold--:D
 






Headers are done!
Intake spacer done!
starting it up now!!

13 hours---Boy!!

The Torquemonster EGR tube was all wrong--seemed to be made for a stock manifold-
it was exactly 1" too high--

I had to bend up his stock one to fit--that was a bummer.
 






Techieman33 just left--
we got hung up for about an hour--now his hood release will not work--

His truck runs great, and the sound--just right IMO
 






One tip I can give right now--

Don't loosen the top motor mount bolts--rather remove the starter harness retainer nuts on the passenger side motor plate, then you can access the engine plate bolts, ( from under the engine)--They are much easier to get a wrench on. You might need to do some prying to get the holes lined back up.
 






hey pics would be great! and is it true that you need to pull the ac compressor to get the driver's side exhast manifold off?
 






hey pics would be great! and is it true that you need to pull the ac compressor to get the driver's side exhast manifold off?


No--we did not disturb any accessories-

The most used tool for this job, is a 6" wobble extension. You guys need to get one--
It will get you on the #5 cylinder front bolt--the inboard collector bolt, both driver side collector bolts, the #5 tube joint bolts (using a mile of extension behind it) and almost all of the header bolts.
It is also handy to get a pack of "Spectre" brand header bolts with the "allen" socket heads, (comes with a socket)
These bolts can't be used in all locations, but where they can, it really works out well--
 

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Well I finally got home, it's been a long day. I've been up for about 29 hours now between work and the install. So needless to say I'm pretty beat, but it paid off in the end, the headers and spacer are amazing. It sounds great, and there are definetly a few more ponies under the hood. I didn't really feel it until above 20mph, then it's like flipping a switch and the thing just takes off.:burnout: Oh, did I forget to mention I got 23mpg on the way home:D My previous best was a little under 20mpg. That alone is worth the cost of headers and spacer.
 












The hood pop cable on mine got burned when I installed my headers, I had to get another one and re route it.

Oh --LMAO!!! That would explain the burning smell we were trying to open the hood to look for--
it went away--the smell that is--
 






Oh --LMAO!!! That would explain the burning smell we were trying to open the hood to look for--
it went away--the smell that is--


Making mental note of this for when we do mine.
 






One tip I can give right now--

Don't loosen the top motor mount bolts--rather remove the starter harness retainer nuts on the passenger side motor plate, then you can access the engine plate bolts, ( from under the engine)--They are much easier to get a wrench on. You might need to do some prying to get the holes lined back up.

DITTO X2

14MM(9/16) nuts then the studs are 13mm(1/2). and those studs are in there GOOD, they will let go suddenly so dont loose a knuckle or elbow, be ready.

I didnt have to loosen the one on the Drivers side....
hey pics would be great! and is it true that you need to pull the ac compressor to get the driver's side exhast manifold off?
I loosened the AC compressor so I could get to the ft bolt on the left side alittle easier with a socket. This is just to make it easier to remove and install, You dont HAVE to, but it DOES save alot of time and frustration fighting with things...;) Everybody does it their own way, 15 years of turning wrenches has tought me my way :D :thumbsup:
 






DITTO X2

14MM(9/16) nuts then the studs are 13mm(1/2).

I didnt have to loosen the one on the Drivers side....

We didn't loosen the drivers side either, just the passenger side.

I loosened the AC compressor so I could get to the ft bolt on the left side with a socket. This is just to make it easier to install, You dont HAVE to, but it DOES save alot of time and frustration fighting with things...;)

Of course I dont have the GT40P heads....

That's what the header bolts with the allen heads are for you don't need to get a socket on it that way.



I got my hood latch cable changed out $42 with tax from ford. It wasn't to hard to pop the hood open either, after I took the inside bracket off, I put a crescent wrench in front of the ball at the end of the cable and managed to break it loose. I'll post pictures of the damage in an hour or so. I have to go get spark plug boots and a haircut.
 






That's what the header bolts with the allen heads are for you don't need to get a socket on it that way.

Good call. :thumbsup: Helps alot when theyre going back in I Imagine.
 






Good call. :thumbsup: Helps alot when theyre going back in I Imagine.

definetly, the allen head is a ball, and the bolts lock on to it so you don't even have to worry to much about dropping them. It can be a pain to get the allen driver off though.
 






You must have worn Jon out. I haven't seen him on at all today.

Spark plug boots & a hair cut. That's an interesting combo :D
 






You must have worn Jon out. I haven't seen him on at all today.

Spark plug boots & a hair cut. That's an interesting combo :D

<<<<<<< = toast
 









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