Intake Gaskets and cam tensioner fix

[rp23g7]

UPDATE, Replaced Intake Gaskets and cam tensioner fix

So, here i am waiting for my 00M12 kit, and just wondering, Is the tensioner spring loaded or does it work off of oil pressure?

Sometimes my chain rattles like heck, and when the oil pressure comes up it still makes some noise.

Other times, like yesterday, come home, change, get in to go to the gym, start the truck, quiet, hmmm, come out from the gym, start it, quiet, hmmmm.

Just got me wondering if they do work off oil pressure, if its gunked up, or a spring in there sticks, or both.



So, i replaced my upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, I added the oil restrictor and new plug, but i didnt do the tensioner.

The replacement looks nothing like the part in the box. The part that is there, looks like the image posted below, not the contents of the box, but the one image that just has a Hex at the top.

The replacement tensioner has the hex then a inch or so long extension.

I didnt want to take the old one out and then be unable to replace it and then need another gasket or something, so i left it alone. It doesnt look like it would clear the temp sensor.

Put everything bacck together, and started it, hmmmmm whats that noise. Forgot the vacume line on the back left manifold. reattached and went for a drive, idled a lot better. Gotta wait till it completely cools off and go start it cold and see what happens.

 

[03silversvt]

its spring loaded and works off oil pressure. I replaced my balance shaft tensioner caue it was broke and i thought tha was my rattle problem but it turned out to be more than just that. it was also the front cam tensioner.here some vid of before the tensioner install and a after the cam tensioner install that i took. It still will rattle every now and then at start up but just for a milli second until oil gets in the tensioner. Mine setimes would not rattle like you stated. The m0012 cured all problems but lik i said, somtimes you will get a slight quick rattle at start and thats it
. Just FYI the old tensiond seemed like it was ok. Spring worked etc. I installe dthe tsb part anyway and it worked so dont be surprised if your old tensioner has good sping tension
Noisy start and idle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3Jo9AbvJA4

inside oil fill
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GNvigGrPg8

after m0012 install
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLJcfTdY3KM&feature=related

 

[rp23g7]

neat videos and info, thanks

 

[rp23g7]

so Fed ex brought my kit today. what is the long rod thing for in the kit? The tensioner looks like it needs a oring around the base of the hex where you thread it into the hole, do i use one that is still on the old one?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Kit should include new compression ring

My kit included a new compression ring for the tensioner. See Ford Genuine Parts
Also, there should have been instructions in the kit. The plastic rod is a restrictor to reduce the speed oil drains from that area.

 

[rp23g7]

My kit included a new compression ring for the tensioner. See Ford Genuine Parts
Also, there should have been instructions in the kit. The plastic rod is a restrictor to reduce the speed oil drains from that area.

oh gotcha, mine has that. No other instructions other than the same sheet in your picture. What did you use for the tensioner, big socket or big wrench?

 

[2000StreetRod]

27mm deep well socket

oh gotcha, mine has that. No other instructions other than the same sheet in your picture. What did you use for the tensioner, big socket or big wrench?

I used a 27mm deep well socket. Some members have used a 1 1/16 inch socket. The tensioner is only torqued to 49 ft-lbs but it took about 75 or more ft-lbs to break it loose. If you have to remove either the engine coolant temperature sensor or the engine temperature sender from the thermostat housing be very careful. They are mounted in a brass fitting in the plastic housing that can easily spin and then leak. The thermostat housing is very expensive to replace (>$300). Avoid removing either sensor if you can.

 

[rp23g7]

Hmm, I havent checked, but is it really a metric or standard size? Any sealer go on that compression ring?

 

[03silversvt]

I wouldnt use any sealant on anything. I think it is VERY critical to use the proper socket and the CORRECT torue spec. The reason i think is becuase the tensioner has an oil hole and it is critical that it lines up with the other oil hole. Maybe im wrong but just use the proper torque

 

[rp23g7]

I wouldnt use any sealant on anything. I think it is VERY critical to use the proper socket and the CORRECT torue spec. The reason i think is becuase the tensioner has an oil hole and it is critical that it lines up with the other oil hole. Maybe im wrong but just use the proper torque

rodger that, 49 ft lbs

 

[2000StreetRod]

Thickness of compression ring

I wouldnt use any sealant on anything. I think it is VERY critical to use the proper socket and the CORRECT torue spec. The reason i think is becuase the tensioner has an oil hole and it is critical that it lines up with the other oil hole. Maybe im wrong but just use the proper torque

The thickness of the compression ring is important because the oil port on the tensioner is very close to the inner sealing face of the hex head as shown below.

The actual orientation of the port is not important because the housing diameter between the sealing face and the threads is reduced enough that oil can flow to the port indepenedent of the orientation.

 

[03silversvt]

The thickness of the compression ring is important because the oil port on the tensioner is very close to the inner sealing face of the hex head as shown below.
View attachment 58956
The actual orientation of the port is not important because the housing diameter between the sealing face and the threads is reduced enough that oil can flow to the port indepenedent of the orientation.

oh ok. thanks for clarifying. i really wasnt sure. it just seemed like it made sense