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Intercooling the 4.0 ohv/sohc with Ford Supercouper M90

I figured I better start a new thread, as my old thread goes on forever detailing my 4.0 ohv M90 install, motor rebuild (Funny thing about that), etc. Here's the original thread that brought me to this point: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345617

The issue I am currently having with my M90 install is that I am attempting to increase boost, but cant get the intake charge cool enough. I tried water/meth and had limited results. James with Henson performance just cant do anything more with the tuning till iat's come down.

So, Ron at RPCaster (Building an intercooler for me), and Tim (Vroomzoomboom) who is going to perform some magic on a hood cowl (It was either that, or a body lift to get the additional height for the intercooler). These are the two components I am not able to do myself.

I have detailed logs of my iat's, and am going to do a dyno session before and after install. This will give some great real world numbers.

I'll detail the whole thing as I go (The good, the bad, and the ugly).

For starters. Here is what Just came in the mail.
 

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CDW6212R

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The pumps like the OEM 03/04 Cobra's would be very good, I plan to get that kind also. If there are choices, pick one that has inlet/outlet like you prefer, for hose size, fittings, and angles.

I doubt that an cooler for ATF or oil would work well as a heat exchanger for a blower. Generally the heat exchangers are all similar in design to a radiator, with very thin fins and full coverage thin tubes. It would be about heat transfer efficiency, if you can find some specs on that, then maybe. That's why radiator type coolers seem to cost more, the thinner and multiple parts used, I think.

Some aftermarket heat exchangers can get very expensive. Try to find a use unit from say the Cobra or Lightning.

I have a large Super Duty trans cooler that I plan to install, and it may require cutting the center support in front of the radiator, which mounts the hood latch.
 


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Dono

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Be careful on the ebay pump. The picture of the one I purchased looked really good, and the description sounded good. Then a toy shows up in the mail.

I read another thread where a transfer cooler was used with great success. I'd probably be included ed to try it. Worst case you have to swap it out at a later date. Using the trans cooler is a low cost, and low time investment to try.

Is your iat sensor going post m90? I'm sure that's a stupid question to even ask you. But, with that iat sensor after the blower you can log temps when your truck has been pushed for a while. Another easy check would be just feeling the temp of the intercooler water in the tank.

For the driving I do, I'm sure an atf cooler would work fine.
 




Dono

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So, the answer on the atf cooler is 'maybe'. Don is correct, but I still say give it a try since its already there(and you did such a great job of mounting it).
I tried to find a few threads on other forums that I read about guys having success with atf coolers, but I couldnt find them. Guys are using them, and they are working. It is all about heat transfer. Here's the only blurb I found with a google search.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=867195
 




CDW6212R

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Part of why I'd avoid the ATF cooler for the blower exchanger is due to size. Almost no ATF coolers are big at all, compared to a real radiator or heat exchanger.

The huge OEM ATF cooler I have is as wide as a radiator, and I think at least 20" high. The used cooler I have was a good $120 I think from eBay, it's been years. I want to mount it where the AC condenser is, and move the condenser forward to be in front of it(thus cutting the center bracket).
 




jd4242

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No way would I use a atf cooler!!!! To me its to small and doesn't hold enough fluid. Also as far as I know bosch only makes one pump for SC applications
 




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CDW6212R

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Well it does look like people use them.they list the coolers as oil or water.this is where Don and I got ours from

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=15&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a

I would prefer this first larger thin($150) version, versus the thicker($180) one below;
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1002&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1026&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a


This one is similar to what I found, there are several versions/sizes for the big truck coolers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmissio...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac552b079&vxp=mtr

I think the truck coolers would be the closest to a real heat exchanger, but they still are a bit smaller on average. They are cheaper though, $100 is way better than $300+ etc.
 




jd4242

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I would prefer this first larger thin($150) version, versus the thicker($180) one below;
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1002&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1026&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a


This one is similar to what I found, there are several versions/sizes for the big truck coolers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmissio...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac552b079&vxp=mtr

I think the truck coolers would be the closest to a real heat exchanger, but they still are a bit smaller on average. They are cheaper though, $100 is way better than $300+ etc.
Problem I see will the oil cooler is you gota buy a remote filler for it.
I run this one with great results, its thicker but doesnt block the whole front end.plus my trans cooler was on one side so no real room for the full size 1" thick one.both hold same amount of fluid. Think Don will be running the same one
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1062&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a
 




CDW6212R

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Problem I see will the oil cooler is you gota buy a remote filler for it.
I run this one with great results, its thicker but doesnt block the whole front end.plus my trans cooler was on one side so no real room for the full size 1" thick one.both hold same amount of fluid. Think Don will be running the same one
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...=1062&osCsid=c9de7a626c4b8e5b1b1372ecc829042a

True, mixing the various parts to fit into the space is important, and these engine bays are tight already.

I'd "wish"(maybe for racing) to build a blower reservoir that goes where the battery is. Make one big enough to install an AC evaporator inside of it, and run the cold AC line through that.;)
 




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True, mixing the various parts to fit into the space is important, and these engine bays are tight already.

I'd "wish"(maybe for racing) to build a blower reservoir that goes where the battery is. Make one big enough to install an AC evaporator inside of it, and run the cold AC line through that.;)

Lol that would be AWESOME. .I know people at the track fill there cooler full of ice water.no ice just really cold water.they also make ice box coolers for air to air setups
 




CDW6212R

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Yes, those aftermarket cooler methods got me to thinking, and it would work well for any AC vehicle.
 




Dono

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Cooling the water below ambient would be fantastic. I have to wonder if running an ac core as an intercooler would give you net gains after the losses of the air conditioning pump load or not.

I think using an ATF cooler could work well, depending on the driving you are doing and the size of the cooler.
I'm sure you would be more prone to heat soaking the water if your doing high loads, then not moving for a while. StreetRod is planning a reservoir tank so that would help prolong the time for the water to heat up in conditions such as quarter mile track running, or dyno testing. Day to day driving, I'm 95% sure his current atf cooler and a reservoir will do the job.
Only thing is, you really need that reservoir outside of the engine bay where its cool.
I will not be running a reservoir as it does create other complications, and Im pretty sure the front rad I have holds plenty of water for my application.

I can hardly wait to get going on this. Tims at AFN, then he has another project to complete. Im still really busy with other things, so I wouldn't even be able to think about it for another 3 weeks. The timing might work out pretty good. Just not as soon as I would like.
I was kind of curious why my water/meth tank wasn't really going down. Turns out I had a blown fuse. It was a 10 amp, but after reading it should have been a 20. Seems pretty high to me. Anyway, I sure can tell the difference with that meth spraying. I'm hoping with the awic and meth I will see below ambient temps under boost. It would be best case scenario.
 




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Hey Don,

Is your meth on a hobbs switch?
 




Dono

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Hey Don,

Is your meth on a hobbs switch?

No, its on a progressive spray (They call it a stage 2 kit).
I used a medium jet (Probably too much for my motor currently) and initiate spraying at about 1 lb boost, and am at full spray at about 14 lbs boost. Since I'm only seeing 6 lbs boost currently, this jet never see's full capacity.

I was using full spray at about 8 lbs boost, but I would get the odd stumble and was going thru a ton of water/meth (Id have to fill up my reservoir twice per tank of gas). What I have now seems to be more realistic for my motor and driving style.

I could have just gone with a hobbs switch with a smaller jet, and boost of around 4 lbs. It is better to initiate spray early and ramp w/m flow up as air flow increases though.
 




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I am sure I missed the part where you mentioned, but your jet is mounted how close to the TB?
 




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The jet is mounted just after the TB.
 




vroomzoomboom

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k, don. i started playing around with the hood tonight. its decision time for you

i have a template for the hood cut out for the curvature

IMG_2012_Medium_.jpg


and have marked the hood for both where it needs to be cut

IMG_2013_Medium_.jpg


now if you look at the pic, you can see in black how big the hole needs to be.
here is where you need to decide what you would like. i have marked with the masking tape (the outer edge) on how wide it would be if i followed the body lines of the hood.
pros and cons of it are, it follows the lines in the hood, but will be pretty wide at the back. it would also run right on the edge of the factory bracing as well. if you want, you can measure it at home. follow the body line on the hood, and measure 7 1/2 inches out. thats how big it will be. or, i can make it so its only as wide as the hole. it wont be as wide near the back, but i think i would have to cut the brace under the hood.
 




Dono

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I'm gonna say, follow the body lines of the hood.
Btw, welcome back Tim!
I can hardly wait to hear a few stories.
 




vroomzoomboom

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have a few more rough pics for you don

IMG_2042_Medium_.jpg


IMG_2046_Medium_.jpg


IMG_2047_Medium_.jpg


IMG_2048_Medium_.jpg


as it sits, the back of the cowl will/would be 4 1/2 inches tall. if i was reading you text right the other day, i can lose a inch from the highest point, correct? if that is the case, i can bring it all down another inch, and we should still be ok.
 


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Dono

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Yup, that's correct. And it inch can come off.
I see what you mean about it looking really tall. It will look great.

So, this house I'm helping with just had all the copper stolen out of it. Can you believe it? I didn't know if my buddy was going to laugh, or cry. Hopefully it won't take long to run new pex. Amazing. Lol. They even took the water meter.
 




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