intermittent start to no start! help! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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intermittent start to no start! help!

Texasbaby

Member
Joined
July 27, 2015
Messages
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City, State
San Antonio, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer Sport
I recently had my radiator and hoses replaced now my poor trucks temp gauge goes all the way up to almost overheating and back to normal while driving. She will also go to a low idle and stall with a sluggish acceleration at times (not all the time). My heater would blow cold air and the ac was not blowing cold anymore then low and behold my truck wouldn't start. Upon evaluation it was discovered the serpentine belt was not turning. Belt was taken off and the ac compressor was the culprit. I then did some measuring, due to low funds, and discovered 71.5 was the number to bypass the ac. While waiting for assistance to put the new belt on o was able to replaced spark plugs 5&6, gapped at .054. Once my night on shining armor helped with the tension the new belt was installed. The truck started with much hesitation but she started and actually sounded a bit better but temp was still goin from hot (gauge illuminated) back to normal with hesitation (at times) while idling or at a stop. The new radiator still had to be filled upon every stop. Starting the truck was a difficult task to start the next few times, she sounds like she wanted to buy just wouldn't. After multiple try's and several gas peddle pumps she would catch. I would have to give lots of gas to get her to catch. Today she started this morning and I was able to drive a short distance to the corner store and back, she sat for a few hours and when I went to start her again it was a no go. There truck turns over and sounds like she almost wants to start at times but won't. Please help this newly educated Texas girl to diagnose!!! Thank you!!!
 



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You have to find out where the antifreeze leak is and others will comment on other things about your problems
 






It's the house that ruins along the top of the radiator. When it was installed it was clamped to tight, I'm assuming, and our cut into the hose. Would this be reason enough for it to crank and almost start?
 






I did take the passenger side air bag out looking for the keyless code and disconnected some wires on the left, ecu maybe, but plugged them in as it was put back together. World this have anything to do with the problem? Could I have tripped the inertia?
 






No, that goes to your reserve tank. Mine is cut in half and I don't even use my reserve tank. As long as there is antifreeze in radiator and filled up its fine. This has nothing to do why your engine runs weird. Hope you didn't overheat it enough to do damage to engine and that's whats causing the problems. I over heated mine a few times and almost sounded like a diesel engine but after it cooled down it was fine ever since a few years ago. Is your check engine light on in the dash? If so have the codes read. Its free at advance auto parts and some other parts stores to see what the codes say. It could be something as simple as bad plugs, plug wires or coil doing it.
 






I disconnected the battery when I went into the dash to look for the codes and no check engine light is on. When I crank the truck the rpms don't go up either but it still sounds as if it wants to start, it just don't catch.
 






I did change two spark plugs (5&6). Could I have installed them wrong causing the issue? How would i know? As a side note the fuel pump is engaging and the starter relay for does click when the key is turned.
 






I posted that last reply while you were posting that reply right before mine so I didn't see that one when I posted my last reply.

Disconnect the battery for 5mins and try again. If you gapped plugs right then its fine unless you rethreaded them into head which I doubt. I doubt you triggered the fuel shut off switch. But you can search these forums to read about it if you did.

I would disconnect the battery like I said. If runs rough run a fuel pressure test Just because you hear fuel pump doesn't mean everything is working properly in fuel line pressure. You would have to drive it around for check engine light but you said there wasn't one. Also like I said before about the plugs and wires and coil
 






Thank you! I will try that tomorrow!!
 






not in numerical order

i did change two spark plugs (5&6). Could i have installed them wrong causing the issue? How would i know? As a side note the fuel pump is engaging and the starter relay for does click when the key is turned.

Cylinder%20key%204_0%20SOHC.jpg
 






I apologize for my ignorance but please explain diagram. I'm very new at this and trying to learn. Thank you so much!
 






I posted that last reply while you were posting that reply right before mine so I didn't see that one when I posted my last reply.

Disconnect the battery for 5mins and try again. If you gapped plugs right then its fine unless you rethreaded them into head which I doubt. I doubt you triggered the fuel shut off switch. But you can search these forums to read about it if you did.

I would disconnect the battery like I said. If runs rough run a fuel pressure test Just because you hear fuel pump doesn't mean everything is working properly in fuel line pressure. You would have to drive it around for check engine light but you said there wasn't one. Also like I said before about the plugs and wires and coil

I disconnected the battery, switched out the relay fuses and turned the key a few times and still nothing
 






Ignition wire routing

If you look closely on the top of the coil pack you find the cylinder numbers stamped there. Many members don't notice that 5 and 6 are not in numerical order. That is because of the firing order and that Ford uses a waste spark ignition system. The cylinders are paired. One cylinder fires on the compression and the other cylinder in the pair fires at the same time on the exhaust stroke.
CylCoilNumbers.jpg

Make sure the wire from each cylinder (as numbered) goes to the coil pack terminal with the matching number.
 






I attempted to check oil on a slant and there may be to much. Worked this cause it? I can't be to certain because it's in such a slant.
 






The wires have never been taken off until I changed just the 5 & 6 the other day. Would the car have ran the entire time and then stopped starting all of the sudden?
 






I checked and they are in corresponding order. The oil possibly being overfilled is bothering me. Again I apologize, I Sn trying to learn on a slim budget. Thank you for your patience.
 






If you look closely on the top of the coil pack you find the cylinder numbers stamped there. Many members don't notice that 5 and 6 are not in numerical order. That is because of the firing order and that Ford uses a waste spark ignition system. The cylinders are paired. One cylinder fires on the compression and the other cylinder in the pair fires at the same time on the exhaust stroke.
View attachment 85212
Make sure the wire from each cylinder (as numbered) goes to the coil pack terminal with the matching number.

I checked and they are in corresponding order. The oil possibly being overfilled is bothering me. Again I apologize, I am trying to learn on a slim budget and a child with disabilities. Thank you for your patience
 






Would i have messed anything up disconnecting the wire cluster closest to the drivers side when I took out the passenger air bag looking for the factory keyless entry code?
 






No the oil wouldn't of messed up the way it runs if its a lil over especially the way you says your runs. If the plug wires are in the right order then that eliminates that running like crap. It seems like you need your fuel pressure checked but the whole thing of your check engine light not coming on is weird. Your vehicle should be throwing codes and having a code reader to read them codes would help in the direction to take to fix it.

How about we start from the beginning. How did this happen? Did all of a sudden it run like crap or did it gradually start doing this more and more and the check engine light never came on and you never had the codes read?
 



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It did come on but when I went to have it checked they said there was no power to the plug under the dash so they couldn't check it. That's when the overheating started and I replaced the radiator. The temp gauge still went all the way up to the H and it would then go down to normal. It would fluctuate. I also had the oil changed and pulled out the passenger dash for the code at this point. The next day, driving across town to pick my child up, truck then stalled and wouldn't start . Went back the next day and jumped the truck came home and parked it. Wouldn't start the next morning because there belt wasn't turning at that point the serpentine belt was taken off and battery disconnected. After examination the ac clutch was the culprit. I then measured and found a belt to bypass the pulley, at the same time I was able to change spark plugs 5&6. Reconnected the battery and after much hesitation the truck started but check engine light never came back on. I was able to drive it that night but truck hesitated and was seemed to be idling low, almost to dying point. It kept fluctuating temp grin very hi back to normal and I did have to add water. The next morning the truck started with hesitation and I drove it a short distance and parked it. A few hours later I went outside to start it again with no luck. It cracks slightly sluggish, rpms do not rise, and sounds like it wants to start so often but won't turn over.
 






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