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Is it worth it?

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johnvosh

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Stony Plain, Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Sport
So as most people who have my posts know, I have a '93 Ford Explorer 2dr, 5spd, 4x4, manual windows/locks, cruise control, A/C with 303,000 KM's (188,000 miles). I am planning on selling my Cobalt and using this thing as my daily driver. Try and get my debt load under control. With the mileage on it would it be worth it to fix up and use as a daily driver? Right now I am averaging between 15-21 MPG depending on the driving I do. I have replaced the starter and CAT back exhaust so far. The following list is everything I figured I would take and replace.

Now some of the stuff is probably okay and doesn't need to be replaced, but I want to replace it so I know it is good since I have no idea what has happened to it before I got it. I am also replacing the rear diff fluid and rear axle seals when I do the back brakes. Am I going overboard? The prices below are from Part Source, but can probably get better pricing since my dad works for a FORD dealership. The list below is around $2,200 before taxes.

The body is in really good shape with next to no rust. I plan on also undercoating it this Spring/Summer and changing the grill and headlight trim to chrome. Plus I also have to figure out what is wrong with the cruise control and fix it and replace the A/C compressor (picking up from pick n pull).

Thermostat $15.00
Disc brake hardware kit $25.00
Drum brake hardware kit $13.00
Rear brakes $48.00
Rear drums $188.00/pr
Front brakes $77.00
Front rotors $226.00/pr
Serpentine Belt $53.00
Rear shocks $78.00/pr
Front shocks $78.00/pr
Fuel filter $13.00
Tires 4 @ $74.00 235/75r15 CT brand AW
Front semi-loaded calipers $52.00/pr
Lower ball joints $64.00/pr
Upper ball joints $56.00/pr
Radius arm bushing $50.00/pr
Rear defrost repair kit $13.00
Fuel pressure regulator $166.00
Coolant sending unit $11.00
temp sensor $62.00
Tie Rod inner RH $108.00
Tie Rod inner LH $59.00
Outer tie rod $150.00/pr
Windshield $250
 


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Spook

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'93 XLT
What colour are your grille and headlight trim now? I have chrome on my '93 and was going to black it out. Maybe a swap...
 




johnvosh

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'93 Sport
What colour are your grille and headlight trim now? I have chrome on my '93 and was going to black it out. Maybe a swap...

I have Black right now and I will probably change the bumper(s) to chrome as well!

(dead links)
 




92exp4x4

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92 XL 2-door and others
First of all, its worth doing if you plan on keeping the truck. All of mine will be with me for as long as I can keep them, so long term thinking goes into every rebuild or repair I do. Plus doing the work myself saves lots of money and one can afford to do extra work. As for a daily driver, definately do most of those things. Brakes and tires are the most important parts of a vehicle, don't skimp here.

It is never a bad idea to change filters and fluids. I would flush everything:

*Air filter
*Engine oil and filter
*Coolant, with thermostat (motorcraft part is highly recommended), check hoses for swelling, and remove and clean the radiator inside and out. You would be amazed at what comes out of the fins.
*Trans - uses auto trans fluid in the 5 speed (wierd isn't it)
*T-case - uses auto trans fluid as well
*Both diffs - don't forget the friction modifier if they are traction lock.
*Brakes - definately replace all hoses and rusted lines.
*Power steering - easier than it looks
*And last but not least - major tune up. Plugs, wires, PCV valve of course all motorcraft parts

I also changed all the seals in the rear axle along with the brakes and p. brake cables on my last brake job. I turned the drums and rotors. They still had plenty of life left.

If the ball joints and tie rods have loosness or slop then yes, but if that stuff is good, I would wait. Factory ball joints had no grease fittings, replacments do. This may tell you if they have been replaced previously. Make sure any front end slop isn't because of the wheel bearings either loose or bad. With that mileage, more than likely you need a steering box and/or steering shaft before the tie rods, but i'm not looking at your vehicle either. Usually the tie rods have been replaced by then.

Sending units and sensors, I would hold off unless they are difficult to get to later. They never usually fail, and they are fairly easy to replace most of the time. With the radius arm bushings I would also do the axle pivots. Not usually fun, but could cause alignment issues later.

All in all I agree with your list. It sounds like you maintain your vehicles very well, GREAT! I did most all of your list plus some on my last purchase.

Good luck, and I would do this before getting rid of the Cobalt, Its easier to not have to walk to the parts store!:D
 




johnvosh

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'93 Sport
It is never a bad idea to change filters and fluids. I would flush everything:

*Air filter
*Engine oil and filter
*Coolant, with thermostat (motorcraft part is highly recommended), check hoses for swelling, and remove and clean the radiator inside and out. You would be amazed at what comes out of the fins.
*Trans - uses auto trans fluid in the 5 speed (wierd isn't it)
*T-case - uses auto trans fluid as well
*Both diffs - don't forget the friction modifier if they are traction lock.
*Brakes - definately replace all hoses and rusted lines.
*Power steering - easier than it looks
*And last but not least - major tune up. Plugs, wires, PCV valve of course all motorcraft parts

Air is a K&N so I cleaned it and reoiled it and cleaned the MAF at the same time. Oil and filter was changed just after I got it. Will probably go with the Motorcraft thermostat. What temp do I want to get as they usually always list 2. Trans and t-case was done before I took it on a 1,500 KM trip (colours were good with next to no grey in them. Doing the rear diff when I change the brakes and seals, open diff's so I am just using standard 80w90 gear oil. Plugs, wires, and PCV were all replaced before I got it and I did check them and they all look good. I will be most of the work myself and getting my dad to help me. Then I have him do the 4-wheel alignment for free!

I am going with the Motomaster AW tire for the spring to fall and then find a decent set of winter tires.

Another question, the sensor on the transfer case that has a magnet on the end of it, what is it for? It has popped out on me a while back while I was driving and didn't seem to affect anything. For some reason I was missing the bracket to hold it in. Also do these things last much past 300,000 KM's? I've seen quite a few in pick-n-pull that have at most 350,000 KM's (auto and manual).
 




FarmTruk

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94 XLT 4x4, 172k miles
fyi, just spot-checking some of those parts prices....you can MUCH better prices than you have listed.

example... Over $400 for 2 rotors/2 drums? Highway robbery, imo.
 




johnvosh

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fyi, just spot-checking some of those parts prices....you can MUCH better prices than you have listed.

example... Over $400 for 2 rotors/2 drums? Highway robbery, imo.

You are probably right, but do remember these are Canadian prices. My dad has some connections so I should be able to get most parts cheaper than what I have listed here. The ones I have prices for also aren't the cheapest ones, I went with the more expensive ones. For drums and rotors is it really worth it to go for the more expensive ones or will the cheaper ones work and last just as long?
 




Spook

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'93 XLT
Interesting the difference between the 2 grilles. PM me if your interested.
 




92exp4x4

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92 XL 2-door and others
That sensor should be the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Its used by the computer for various reasons, mainly for determining the shifting of the auto trans (you don't have obviously), for the cruise control and some other things. Also I would choose the 195 degree stat. As you live much further north and I'm sure its quite fridged these days (10 degrees as i write this). The cooler ones are for use in say, Arizona and hot climates like that.

Any vehicle will last if it is taken care of, and it sounds like yours was. Most of my vehicles have more than 170,000 miles. One of the explorers has 235,000 miles on it and it still runs like a champ. Don't get me wrong, it's worn, but until it blows I'm gonna leave it aloan. My Diesel F250 has 217,000 miles on the 'all original' engine and it runs perfect even the trans is original. But again it was well maintained by the previous owners.

Do a search, there are a few 300,000 mile plus explorers on here. Don't beat the hell out of it and keep up on maintenence and i'm sure you will get lots of use out of your truck.

BTW I would go with the more expensive drums and rotors. There have been issues with bad steel coming from China lately. Alot of parts have failed recently because of this. I would go with the name brands. You will most likely warp the cheap rotors very quickly or they may crack or fail.
 




FIND

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You could probably do that list at half that cost or less ordering most of those parts from rockauto.com


I've put a bit more money than that into my 92 now..... but, some of that money is in things like an electric fan, parts for my custom front, interior LEDs, rebuilding my rear axle and a bunch of other stuff. I've picked up your whole list of parts as well except the windshield and tie rod ends. I might get some machining done on my heads and replace rockers/pushrods by the end of this summer too. All of this on a truck I bought in august for $400.
 




OneLever

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There is a forum discount code for rockauto.com as well here: Link
 




johnvosh

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'93 Sport
I would choose the 195 degree stat. As you live much further north and I'm sure its quite fridged these days (10 degrees as i write this). The cooler ones are for use in say, Arizona and hot climates like that.

Well it does get down to -35 Celsius in the mornings sometimes and can get as hot as plus 35 Celsius in the summer time. With the A/C running, would the 195 degree stat still be okay? I know some people change the stats in both spring and fall, which is something I don't really want to do.
 




johnvosh

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You could probably do that list at half that cost or less ordering most of those parts from rockauto.com

Yes, but I would also then have to pay customs fee's which can be quite expensive. I would rather buy locally. My dad does have some connections so should be cheaper than what I have found for prices. The websites for Canadian stores isn't quite what it is for their American counterpart, which kinda of sucks!
 




FIND

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Yes, but I would also then have to pay customs fee's which can be quite expensive. I would rather buy locally. My dad does have some connections so should be cheaper than what I have found for prices. The websites for Canadian stores isn't quite what it is for their American counterpart, which kinda of sucks!

Ahhh I see

Well it does get down to -35 Celsius in the mornings sometimes and can get as hot as plus 35 Celsius in the summer time. With the A/C running, would the 195 degree stat still be okay? I know some people change the stats in both spring and fall, which is something I don't really want to do.

Hotter or colder thermostat has nothing to do with the climate you live in. Using a different temp thermostat is just for... well tuning basically.

I have a 195 degree thermostat in mine, and I put one in my ex wife's when I changed her thermostat. My explorer sees temps as low as -40 F (-40 C) and as high as 105 F (40 C), and I never have any problems with heating or cooling. Your A/C condenser is mounted in front of your radiator, and your cooling fan SUCKS air in through it, so the temp of your radiator doesn't really have much to do with it. As long as air is moving through it, you are set.

By the way, I fully agree with what 92exp4x4 said. Get the premium brake parts. Brakes are one part of your vehicle you never want to go cheap on.
 




92exp4x4

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I have always had the 195 degree stats in my vehicles. I have seen the other thermostats listed as a "winter" or "summer" in some parts catalogs.

It really is more for tuning and emissions reasons. But, the cooler stat will help keep the engine closer to the operating temp of 210-220 easier in hotter weather. This is what I meant by comparing climates.

You will be fine with the 195 degree stat. It normally ranges from about 0 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit here, which is probably about the same as where you are. I'm not sure how the celcius numbers equate to this.

I like your signature, FIND.
 




FIND

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I have always had the 195 degree stats in my vehicles. I have seen the other thermostats listed as a "winter" or "summer" in some parts catalogs.

It really is more for tuning and emissions reasons. But, the cooler stat will help keep the engine closer to the operating temp of 210-220 easier in hotter weather. This is what I meant by comparing climates.

You will be fine with the 195 degree stat. It normally ranges from about 0 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit here, which is probably about the same as where you are. I'm not sure how the celcius numbers equate to this.

I like your signature, FIND.

Cooler stat won't keep it closer to 210-220.... Shadetree knowledge and misleading advertising is what is getting you here, don't worry, happens to the best of us. A 195 degree thermostat opens at 195 degrees, a 165 ad 165 degrees. Once you are past either of those temperatures, your fan/radiator is all that is important when determining what temperature your car will run at. Only thing a 165 degree thermostat will do is make it easier to get under 195 degrees... which like I said, is for tuning purposes. Basically making more ponies...

btw, thanks.... the second quote is from Catcher in the Rye... or more recently Ghost in the Shell SAC. The third one is a Jeremy Clarkson quote.
 




johnvosh

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Well I guess I will go with the 195 t-stat then. I figured also since I will have the housing off I would change the 2 temp sensors as well since who knows when they were last done. I know house thermostat's do go off after a few years so I figure this is the same with these sensors.
 




OneLever

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I figured also since I will have the housing off I would change the 2 temp sensors as well since who knows when they were last done.

While I do agree with changing the thermostat regularly I do not think you need to change either of the temperature sensors. If the Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor was bad you would likely get a DTC thrown. If the Engine coolant temperature sender was bad you would likely see the dash temp gauge acting erratically.

Edit:
You may have different purpose sensors though since you're running a 1993.
 




johnvosh

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Well got my grill and light trim changed over to chrome today. Had to since someone hit my driver side marker light and broke it and the trim. I didn't take it apart before I went and got the parts and it turns out they did more damage than I though. I have to replace the whole bracket for the headlight since they cracked and broke it and so it can't be adjusted anymore. This was from sitting in our apartment parking lot, I am so ticked off as I wasn't wanting to replace it yet. Will post a pic of the new grill once I take it!
 


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