tuckman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- December 20, 2009
- Messages
- 157
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Elk Point, Alberta
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 92 Explorer XLT
a little 5w20 or 0w20 isnt gonna make much if any difference.
Let's say you 10w30..... at operating temperature, it acts like a 10 weight, dilute that with a quart with 5 weight after you drain out a quart.... you are gonna have what basically is just a little thicker than 9 weight, 0 weight is just gonna change it to ~9 weight. Any good thin clean fresh quality oil is gonna work, but it has nothing really to do with the weight of the oil. The thin oil just mixes more readily, and the additives are still in suspension, whereas your old oil may have additives that are no longer in suspension, or are worn out.
I do not agree with the oil weight theory, it is just wrong.
At operating temps a 10w-30 does NOT act like a 10 weight it is a 30 weight with 10w cold temp characteristics! Just like a 0w-30 will still have the same viscosity at operating temps as a 10w-30 or 5w-30 but it will still be pourable at much colder temps, easily into the -40's. Where a 10w-30 would be a glob stuck in the bottle at even at -25. That is why a 5w-20 is thinner than a 5w-30 at operating temps but will be similar viscosity at 40 and pourable at -20 and lower.
Once the oil has been in use for a long time the 30 weight starts to thicken into 40 or higher weight oil and cause sludge if not changed at proper intervals. That is where this old trick came from there was not a readily available supply of thin oils other than ATF so it was the choice. If you are using 10w-40 or 20w-50 the light oil is gonna make an even bigger difference.
I do agree with using lighter weight diesel motor oils.
I have a good stash of diesel motor oils for my vehicles and use them regularly. These oils have the strongest additive packs and very good cleaning additives as these oils have to deal with soot.