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jamest's "RE-SAS"


james t

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... or SAS pt.II, or SAS redeux, or axle remix thread. :p:

As some of you know, ive recently got a 94 sport that is the typical fullwidth HP44 with coils/arms, fullwidth 9" type swap. Its currently on radial 36" Iroks.

Right now im lowering it down 4" and extending the wheelbase a couple of inches. It wheels great but its just too tall for what i want to do. Ive got some Bilstein 7100's in the mail and my general idea is to make this more of a dual sport type rig that can get it on the rocks and also be able to blast some fire roads and play on the sandbars here in the summer.

Currently the truck has 4" blocks under the back and a "W" shaped set of hybrid 4 door packs. Im going to take the blocks out, throw on a freshened set of low mile 4door leaves with the overload removed, run anti-wrap pertches with the holes redrilled to move the rear back on the springs 2".

Pic below is why you DONT run shock boots. This was an Arizona rig and never really saw any mud after sureshot40sw bought it-
 

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james t

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Pic 1- I tore the junkyard leaves down, hit them with the wire cup and then 80grit flap disc and painted them. Gathered up the good teflon pads from both sets of leaves to have enough for my new set. Standard 4 door pack with no overload. The stock strap that goes around the leaves limits flex as it bands the leaves together, so i grabbed some .25" plate i had laying around and bent these up. There is a chopped piece of a bolt welded through them that fits through the stock hole. I slid them in place and tacked them. NOTICE- its really stupid to weld to a leaf spring but im thinking (hoping) a little tack isnt going to hurt anything. :p:

Pic 2- Here you can see the leaf pin bolt going through the new hole in the ubolt plate. This lines everything up for moving the rear back. Original hole in the middle, some other random hole... well i have no idea what that was for.

Pic 3- Done and on the ground, now i just need to fab up some shock mounts. Holy crap i forgot how there is no room for long shocks under the back of these things. :( Anyhoo, here it is prerunnered with the front still sky high.
 

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FROADER

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Right now im lowering it down 4" and extending the wheelbase a couple of inches.
Nice James. That's going to look soooo much better.

4" blocks... :eek:
 




james t

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[singing]

Mr. Crazy FedEx driver bouncing off the revlimiter guy

You come down the street sideways, in a cloud of smoke, amongst hundreds of barking dogs to deliver your packages. Your main objective is to get from the hub center to our homes in less than 30 seconds. Your truck, overweighted with our goodies, leans through each turn like a one legged man doing powercleans. With a childs bookbag and an owl pinned in your front grill, you put out a vibe that says to all GET THE HELL OUT OF MY WAY.

Id like to raise a toast to you, bringer of the smashed box, because i can now say that ive seen an 86 year old woman jump OVER a mailbox. And thats just cool.

Mr. Crazy FedEx driver bouncing off the revlimiter guy

Sierra Nevada, Chico California
 

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CodePoet

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How much total lift did you have before? Just wondering, i'm comming in at less than 5-6 inches running the same combo you have.
 




SVO

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WTF?!!! you gots an Exploder???






Jeff - :navajo:
 




james t

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How much total lift did you have before? Just wondering, i'm comming in at less than 5-6 inches running the same combo you have.
No idea... it was sagging 4door pack missing the 3rd leaf with 4" blocks... id guess 9" before and will be 5-6" after.

WTF?!!! you gots an Exploder???
Ayup, ive had it a while, traded the bronco for it. :)


Im afraid im going to have to re-do the rear inner fenderwells now. Not really what i wanted but... no biggie.

Back to the garage!
 




section525

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Bad ass!
 




james t

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Noob moment... i know better. :rolleyes:

objects that arent bolted down + sitting on bumper + great-grandpa's railroad BFH of doom

MAN DOWN!! MAN DOWN!!1! :mad:
 

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james t

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The coil towers were just as difficult as i imagined to get off the frame. Cant get to half the weld with any kind of cutting wheel... if only i had a plasma. Got 'em off anyway... cut one side out with the wheel and then bang it back and forth with the hammer until it tears off.

First pic is the stupid spacer thingy on the driver's side dip in the frame, second pic is me repairing coil tower that i got into with the cutoff wheel. Pardon the crappy flux core welds... maybe Santa will bring me a bottle.
 

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james t

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Rear shocks-

Okay, its going to be new years before i can get some 7100's on the rear to match the front. Right now i have the 9" travel ProCraps that came on it. I really want to run some 14" travel 7100's mounted vertical... ive got to re-do the inner fenderwells anyway. I can either mount up the 9" PC's temp, in a 45 degree angle straight back off the rear, or use the 14" PC's off the front and go ahead and build interior shock hoops.

Only thing is, i REALLY dont want shocks coming through the floor. Im trying to keep this as usable as possible and i hate the idea of losing cargo area.

Any ideas? Crazy super sick gnar gnar cantilevers and run the 9" laying flat? DGAF?
 




section525

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Is this live? You're not working on a Tuesday??
 




james t

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Bday is wednesday, so im off. I had 2 vac. days left, so i took them mon-tues to give me a 5 day weekend. :D

and yes, with the wifi and Brandy's laptop this is live
 








james t

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Can you make the hoop as close to the floorboard as possible and still run a decent size shock?
Not at all. :( I cut out all the spare tire crossmember junk and stuck a piece of 2" square tube up there for new crossmember reference. I then tied one of the 9" shocks off with 4" uptravel showing and with it 1" away from the floor im at 42 degrees. :(

This is the delima. If im gonna pop for the bling shocks i want all i can get out of them. It doesnt have to be 90 degrees... hell id be happy with 60 or so.
 




FROADER

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I don't really know the layout of the sports. Can you go forward with them into the cab so they end up close to the rear seat (inside) and don't take up much of the cargo area?

Pics of where your lower mounts are prease.
 




IZwack

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Hey James, In thanks for the chance :)

EDIT like whoa -- angling the shocks in the rear is no big deal as the rear doesnt have much weight. The stock shock is angled at something like (a guess) 20 degrees or so. Also, to get a larger shock in there, you can try mounting the axle mount lower (a bracket that droops down) but try to keep it as close to the tire as possible to minimize rock rash.
 




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WOW after all the years I have known you, and you let a man go down :eek:



Ok! one of the things I have been thinking about is similar to IZ's idea, of cutting out an access hole in the cargo floor and bringing a hoop through to hang the rear shocks off of, yes you'll loose a little cargo room, but if you stack the sixxers, or in you case the suit cases just right the coolers will clear the hoop, and you'll have just enough room for the chips and dip.


But seriously, if I remember right, isn't the equasion, like a 20deg. angle nets you something like a 30%-40% more travel???




Jeff - :navajo:
 




james t

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I don't really know the layout of the sports. Can you go forward with them into the cab so they end up close to the rear seat (inside) and don't take up much of the cargo area?

Pics of where your lower mounts are prease.
Currently, upper mounts are in the stock location... lowers are welded on right at the ubolt area. Now that ive lowered it, with the 9" shocks, id have 1" of uptravel if i bolted them back up. :rolleyes:

Hey James, In thanks for the chance :)

EDIT like whoa -- angling the shocks in the rear is no big deal as the rear doesnt have much weight. The stock shock is angled at something like (a guess) 20 degrees or so. Also, to get a larger shock in there, you can try mounting the axle mount lower (a bracket that droops down) but try to keep it as close to the tire as possible to minimize rock rash.
I know the angle isnt that big of a deal, but im trying to build a dualsport rig that can sorta "go fast". I know its never going to be fast, but if ive got to plop down $420 for a pair of decent rear shocks i may as well get them really long and as close to 90 degrees as possible to get the most out of them.

Lowering the bracket off the axle isnt an option... its still gotta do rocks without hanging up.

Mounting the shock outboard of the leaves (which is what i really want to do) is going to require going through the fenderwells. :(
 


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james t

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But seriously, if I remember right, isn't the equasion, like a 20deg. angle nets you something like a 30%-40% more travel???
Yes, the more angle on the shock the more travel you get out of it. However, if im going to spend money on bling bling shocks i want to be able to jump this b!tch over 4 kegs at the dunes on Red River.

The shock needs to be close to 90 degrees as possible to get all the valving out of it. THis of course doesnt really make sense because ive been drinking all day. Go to P4x4 main page, scroll down to coilover tech and read it will explain better than i can.

Basically, i dont mind some angle... i just dont want the kicked out to 45 degrees angle. I want somthing more like 60. Or 70. Or whatever is close enough to 90 without cutting thefloor.
 




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