Jefe's 700R4 swap | Page 10 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jefe's 700R4 swap

I got tired of the computer deciding when my 5R55E transmission should shift, since it hadn't a clue with all the mods I've done so I decided It was time for a change. The two choices were a manual, or a 700R4 for a lower crawl ratio. I love having an auto in LA traffic (and Its grown on me wheeling) so I figured I'd be the first to put a 700R4 in a 2nd gen. :)

All my pics are here, and I'll link the important ones to the thread.

I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.

The trans arrives:
DCP_4478.jpg


A few weeks before I put the trans in i decided to install the TV linkage. Somewhere between '91-'94 and 2000 the throttle body linkage changed size, so I got to modify it to fit Bowtie's TV setup. I figured since was modifying anyway I mine as well upgrade and so I threw in a BBK TB.

You can see where i ground the linkage down:
DSC00115.jpg


On another weekend I hacked up my center console and installed the B&M Hammer shifter. It sat a little low sitting on the floor, so I welded up a sub-frame for it out of 1" sq. tube. I plan to glass the cover in with the center console so it looks factory. (anyone want to show me how to glass?)

Part way installed:
SANY0017.jpg


The next step was to throw in the transmission in a weekend and hope everything else went smoothly since this is still my daily driver.

Friday night (5 hrs):
The first job was to get the control arms from the SFA out of the way, along with its bracketry:
SANY0001.jpg

SANY0004.jpg


Next, getting ready to take the t-case and transmission out:
SANY0005.jpg

SANY0006.jpg


Saturday (15 hrs):
With help, and a very tall floor jack (or a bunch of bricks :rolleyes: ) remove t-case and transmission. Compare transmisions (AA tailshaft housing was installed previously, and the 700R4 was built with the AA output shaft):
SANY0012.jpg


Bolt AA adapter to engine:
SANY0014.jpg


Bolt adapter to torque converter and install:
I had to grind down the three bolts in order to get them flush w/ the adapter. Not sure if AA dropped the ball or what.
SANY0013.jpg


Bolt up trans:
SANY0015.jpg


Bolt up t-case:
SANY0016.jpg


Connect TV linkage:
SANY0022.jpg


Reroute cooler lines. I used rubber for now. I plan to replace with either braided stainless or hard lines. I had ordered the Bowtie overdrives lines, but they aren't long enough to reach the drivers side tank of the stock radiator, nor are they the right fittings for the radiator.

Sunday (10 hrs):
Wire up shifter. I brought the wires that went to the shift position switch on the 5R through the same hole as the shift cable. By rewraping the wire harness correctly, i didn't have to extend any wires, which was nice.
Wire up torque converter harness. I got bowties harness w/ manual lockup switch, and replaced my shifter handle with one that has a switch. so now I can lock the converter up when i'm climbing in 3rd gear. It works great.

Connect shifter, fill trans and start engine w/o exhaust Y-pipe to get neighbors attention :D

Modify exhaust. I had to crush the pre-cat on the passenger side in order to get the Y-pipe to fit. The O2 sensor on that side is fine. The O2 sensor on the other side clears the adapter plate by a 1/32", so others may need to grind the adapter to get it to fit. I figured I'd then drive it to an exhaust shop and have them remake my Y-pipe to fit better. However I found out that for such a new vehicle the O2 sensors and pre-cats have to be exact stock distances down the pipe to follow guidlines so no one wanted to help me there. I even talked with the local guy for a good 30 mins coming up with crazy ideas to get it to work, like remoting the oil filter and taking the exhaust around the outside of the frame rail. I ended up just using the tube that AA suplies to extend the Y-pipe so that the cats would bolt up sqaure and clear the trans. I may get to have fun when I need to smog this thing :rolleyes:

exhaust pics:
SANY0024.jpg

SANY0033.jpg

SANY0025.jpg


I know I've left out many details, so if anyone has any questions, ask away.
 



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I'm betting on input drum again. similar noises. When I started it up and it started clicking with engine rpm I was hoping for something 'easy' like a flexplate. :rolleyes: But the engine still turns over with the starter so it has to be inside the trans.

Do you subscripe to Four Wheeler? I just got my issue in the mail (they are always ahead of the calendar, I think its June) and in the new products section there is a heavy duty input drum for the 700R4. Don't know if they make one for the 60*, but it might be worth checking into.
 



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Here is an article about it with a number to call to see if they have it for the 60*

TCI® Heavy-Duty Input Shaft & Drum Assembly Delivers 700R4/4L60E Transmission Durability
By HSPN News covering TCI Automotive | Published 01/29/2007

Eliminates Input Shaft and Drum Breakage in High Torque 700R4 and 4L60E Transmission Applications

The more horsepower and torque your engine makes, the more your transmission is challenged to deliver. The new TCI® Heavy-Duty Input Shaft and Drum Assembly is built for GM 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions required to handle over 500 ft lbs of engine torque. Featuring a cryogenically-hardened input shaft, the assembly incorporates a specially processed heavy-duty drum with a steel reinforcement ring, which is especially important for transmissions enhanced with raised line pressure for firmer shifting.

The TCI® Heavy-Duty Input Shaft and Drum Assembly is available in two versions: one for ’85-‘97 700R4 and 4L60E transmissions and one for ’98 and newer models. Both versions are perfect for any race or high torque street application.



For more information about the TCI® Heavy-Duty Input Shaft and Drum Assembly or any other TCI® products, call us at 1-888-776-9824, or visit us online at www.tciauto.com.
 






It appears to just be the pump. And it may have been an install error on my part when the new engine went in 500 mi ago. :rolleyes: I never removed the TC when the new engine went in, but it may have been bumped, disengaged the pump, and then shoved in bending the pump 'tabs'. The pump only has one bent 'tab' remaining and the outside edge of the snout of the torque converter is scored. The torque converter was bone dry, which was strange. :wtf: But I guess with the pump not running it spun itself dry? :confused:
 






Considering the jobs you've tackled on your own, rebuilding the tranny yourself shouldn't be a problem. You've got the fabrication equipment to build any tools you'll need... You're set!
I'm positive that I could do it, given enough time. And I've always wanted to do it to learn how. But it'll have to wait for another time because I'm swamped at work, I've still got the roll cage to put in, and Moab is only a few weeks away.
 






Official diagnosis: Broken pump and chewed up torque converter snout. Internals all look good.
 






Official diagnosis: Broken pump and chewed up torque converter snout. Internals all look good.

Thats sounds like my last 700r4. When I last went to bowtie (50k miles ago or so I think) and they rebuilt the trans while I was there, the snout of the converter was pretty much gone which took out the pump. The rest looked ok (they rebuilt it anyway to be safe, and lowered the line pressure some for me).

~Mark
 






Thats sounds like my last 700r4. When I last went to bowtie (50k miles or so I think) and they rebuilt the trans while I was there, the snout of the converter was pretty much gone which took out the pump. The rest looked ok (they rebuilt it anyway to be safe, and lowered the line pressure some for me).

~Mark
This was definitely the pump that broke and started to chew on the converter. I was just going to polish the end of it up, but the rebuilder told me to go new.
 






So what causes the pump to go bad? If it's an allignment problem due to the spacer from AA than we should address it. If it was just a bad pump, than maybe Bow Tie should think about a different pump supplier.
 






I got to drive my truck around tonight. :bounce: Yay! :bounce: Trans is working GREAT, and its quiet unlike the last build. AND the shop found a torque converter that stalls at a decent speed (< 2k rpm).

Competition Transmissions - :thumbsup::thumbsup: (local one-man shop)
Bowtie Overdrives - :thumbdwn::thumbdwn:

However the rebuild cost more than I paid for the transmission new. :eek: So much for the cheap rebuild theory. :rolleyes:

So what causes the pump to go bad? If it's an allignment problem due to the spacer from AA than we should address it. If it was just a bad pump, than maybe Bow Tie should think about a different pump supplier.
My pump went bad because the torque converter had come unseated from the pump when I did my engine swap. It was obvious that the prongs of the pump had been bent in.
 






:thumbsup: Congats:D
 






I got to drive my truck around tonight. :bounce: Yay! :bounce: Trans is working GREAT, and its quiet unlike the last build. AND the shop found a torque converter that stalls at a decent speed (< 2k rpm).

Who's converter is it and what the application it is listed for (or the model number).

I will be swapping out my engine this summer (350k+ motor for a 120k motor) and that would be a great time to put in a converter that doesn't stall at 2700 (I don't mind the idea of 2200 or so, just not 2700)

~Mark
 






Jefe I've read a lot of your write ups and after reading this throughly your post about just doing a 5.0 swap has won me over.


Just finished reading this entire thread. I've had no 2nd gear (after numerous valve body changes/rebuilds etc.) for 6 months. Luckily I just use my truck about once every two weeks, and manually 1st offroading (all my youtube vids are with no 2nd gear).

I have finally decided to change the tranny since I have a built Dana 44 waiting for action. After only reading the first page of this thread last night I was very excited about the 700r4, but now am for sure going with a 5.0/4w swap. Going to buy my girlfriend a motorless jeep and maybe put the 4.0 in (but than I am screwed on trans again)!!

Don't really know why I just posted this. Oh just remembered, what are my options on transfer cases with the 4w tranny? I want to get a tc low ration of 4:1 or better. I realize I may have to have the output shaft of the tranny changed.
 






700R4 Swap?

Is it possible to do the swap on a 1991 Explorer XLT 4.0? I know it comes with a 4ALD. I have a 700R4 in my GMC pick-up. It was custom built for me by my Father-in-Law, who has owned and operated Tranny shops for about 38 years. It is really low mileage and in good shape. I am not sure if the 700R4 will bolt up to the 4.0., even with some type of adaptor, or does it only work with V-8's? If it can be done, any info on what is needed, how to locate it, and steps to get started will be greatly appreciated!! I am a first timer here this morning, I have been looking at the site for a while and am glad I finally made the move. Name is William, and just want to say "HI ALL".
Thanks in advance,
TrailTamer/William:D
 












I've also done the swap, and am quite familiar with Hydro-Matic transmissions. The TH700-R4 that is in your Jimmy will not work, unless you are talking about a GMC S-15. You'll need to source a TH700-R4 from a 2.8L V6 as the 4.3L V6 and all SBC/BBCs have a larger bell housing.
 






i just converted to a nissan diesel engine and i have an adapter which i made locally but i have a problem the truck reverses but the transmission is not moving the truck even in the slightest gradient
I have to find a way to trick the computer
i dont want to change the tranny since it is a huge investment
i like your project and i wish i could have done that myself but i am already in too deep
 






DWD, Maniak and Bkennedy all did this swap in a first gen. Search those names, and you'll find all you need.

BTW Jefe's truck is not a v8.

Welcome to the site.


Mudd***** also has done this swap, with an Advanced Adapter.






Jeff - :navajo:
 






I should have mine done in about a month also. I'll tell you one thing, there's alot more to it than just a couple adapters and a transmission.
 






did you use a regular truck 700r4? I think i read some where that it has to be a the small 700r4 (behind GM’s 2.8L, 3.4L, and 3.8L) is that really the case? i have a full size regular 700r4 and need a tranny in my 4.0 explorer, just wondering if i would be able to use it or not. thanks
 



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The advanced adapter kit uses the small case 700r4 which is the 60 degree v6, aka the 2.8L one. The large case, for 90 degree engines like the 4.3l V6 will NOT work.

~Mark
 






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