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Jefe's 700R4 swap

I got tired of the computer deciding when my 5R55E transmission should shift, since it hadn't a clue with all the mods I've done so I decided It was time for a change. The two choices were a manual, or a 700R4 for a lower crawl ratio. I love having an auto in LA traffic (and Its grown on me wheeling) so I figured I'd be the first to put a 700R4 in a 2nd gen. :)

All my pics are here, and I'll link the important ones to the thread.

I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.

The trans arrives:
DCP_4478.jpg


A few weeks before I put the trans in i decided to install the TV linkage. Somewhere between '91-'94 and 2000 the throttle body linkage changed size, so I got to modify it to fit Bowtie's TV setup. I figured since was modifying anyway I mine as well upgrade and so I threw in a BBK TB.

You can see where i ground the linkage down:
DSC00115.jpg


On another weekend I hacked up my center console and installed the B&M Hammer shifter. It sat a little low sitting on the floor, so I welded up a sub-frame for it out of 1" sq. tube. I plan to glass the cover in with the center console so it looks factory. (anyone want to show me how to glass?)

Part way installed:
SANY0017.jpg


The next step was to throw in the transmission in a weekend and hope everything else went smoothly since this is still my daily driver.

Friday night (5 hrs):
The first job was to get the control arms from the SFA out of the way, along with its bracketry:
SANY0001.jpg

SANY0004.jpg


Next, getting ready to take the t-case and transmission out:
SANY0005.jpg

SANY0006.jpg


Saturday (15 hrs):
With help, and a very tall floor jack (or a bunch of bricks :rolleyes: ) remove t-case and transmission. Compare transmisions (AA tailshaft housing was installed previously, and the 700R4 was built with the AA output shaft):
SANY0012.jpg


Bolt AA adapter to engine:
SANY0014.jpg


Bolt adapter to torque converter and install:
I had to grind down the three bolts in order to get them flush w/ the adapter. Not sure if AA dropped the ball or what.
SANY0013.jpg


Bolt up trans:
SANY0015.jpg


Bolt up t-case:
SANY0016.jpg


Connect TV linkage:
SANY0022.jpg


Reroute cooler lines. I used rubber for now. I plan to replace with either braided stainless or hard lines. I had ordered the Bowtie overdrives lines, but they aren't long enough to reach the drivers side tank of the stock radiator, nor are they the right fittings for the radiator.

Sunday (10 hrs):
Wire up shifter. I brought the wires that went to the shift position switch on the 5R through the same hole as the shift cable. By rewraping the wire harness correctly, i didn't have to extend any wires, which was nice.
Wire up torque converter harness. I got bowties harness w/ manual lockup switch, and replaced my shifter handle with one that has a switch. so now I can lock the converter up when i'm climbing in 3rd gear. It works great.

Connect shifter, fill trans and start engine w/o exhaust Y-pipe to get neighbors attention :D

Modify exhaust. I had to crush the pre-cat on the passenger side in order to get the Y-pipe to fit. The O2 sensor on that side is fine. The O2 sensor on the other side clears the adapter plate by a 1/32", so others may need to grind the adapter to get it to fit. I figured I'd then drive it to an exhaust shop and have them remake my Y-pipe to fit better. However I found out that for such a new vehicle the O2 sensors and pre-cats have to be exact stock distances down the pipe to follow guidlines so no one wanted to help me there. I even talked with the local guy for a good 30 mins coming up with crazy ideas to get it to work, like remoting the oil filter and taking the exhaust around the outside of the frame rail. I ended up just using the tube that AA suplies to extend the Y-pipe so that the cats would bolt up sqaure and clear the trans. I may get to have fun when I need to smog this thing :rolleyes:

exhaust pics:
SANY0024.jpg

SANY0033.jpg

SANY0025.jpg


I know I've left out many details, so if anyone has any questions, ask away.
 


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410Fortune

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thats just dumb, irf I want to start in 2 I expect it to start in 2 :)

Sounds Good Jefe, hopefully the Pats wont be a huge mess....I am lucky my 97 5.0L is jsut before the PATs otherwise I would have to re-flash or find an older PCM..

PATS= PITA
 


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DB_1

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I really hate PATS too, every once and a great while it will go off for no reason when I didn't even set it. So I always have to carry to dumb key fob with me just in case.
So you can either re-flash or get a new chip burned to get rid of it?

Sorry to get off on a tangent Jefe ;)
 




410Fortune

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whats a the FOB? Sorry never had pats. :)
I believe you can have the PCM re-flashed to remove or ignore the PATS system.
I also would like to see the PATS system wiring because the PCM is so simple, usually all it takes is a - signal to it to make it think the PATS module accepts the key, you know what I mean?
The PCM probably has two wires for PATS or something simple and it may be easy to fool the PCM, but I have not worked with the PATS wiring yet, thank goodness.
I know the PATS system includes the key/and or key switch, the PATS module and the circuit in the PCM.
I wonder if Mustang guys have figured this out yet.....
 




Jefe

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Well since you asked Jamie, and since I've done my research here:
This is for PATS II. PATS I ('97) is more simple.

The PATS module sits on the data transmission lines (sorry can't think of what they call it) that come out to the OBDII port (as do a few other modules). So the PATS module and PCM communicate to each other via a serial link. In order for them to talk to each other they have to have exchanged ID's with each other back when they were programmed. In KOEO PATS and PCM exchange info to check ID's with each other. If they don't match both modules throw codes PCM is a hidden code, PATS flashes the Theft light). Assuming all communication is good, when you go to start up the car the PATS module checks the key transponder and communicates to the PCM whether the key checks out or not.

The PATS module can be programmed with the PCM ID by a locksmith with the proper equipment (as well as clear old keys or program in new keys) ($1,000 equipment). It can also be done with the proper sequence of key on, key off, pat your head, rub your belly sequence.

The PCM is a little harder. When a PCM is new (never been used) from what I can tell, the first PATS module it communicates with becomes the ID it stores. That way if your PCM dies, it can be replaced w/o the help of a Ford dealer with their $3,000+ progammers. If you put in a tuner chip programmed correctly before the PCM has this ID, then you can disable PATS for good. After the PCM has an ID, it is a bit more difficult. It seems that Ford is able to reprogram the PCM to accept another PATS module, but I never got this confirmed.

I tried to get Ford to put in a used manual computer (even offered to pay for a new one) and have them program it so it worked with my truck, but they declined saying they can't change to a different PCM from stock for emissions reasons.

Now I have thought about using my OBDII scanner hardware and programming some software to 'log onto' the cars serial link and monitor what gets transfered back and forth between PCM and PATS, and even researching what strings of code need to be sent to PCM or PATS to reprogram them correctly. But that would be a lot of work just to get my car to run with a manual computer.

In other words, this system is setup very well to prevent theft. And this is coming from a programmer/engineer ;) Now there are ways to do it, but I won't get into that here for obvious reasons.

BTW Dave, PATS is completely separate from the factory keyless entry / alarm stuff.
 




DB_1

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So can the keyless entry/alarm be disabled? After that last reply, a simple yes or no answer or monkey sign langauge will do :p lol
 




410Fortune

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I see a serial link.....

So easiest way to do conversion is to get the module, cable, and key from the donor.
 




Jefe

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DB_1 said:
So can the keyless entry/alarm be disabled? After that last reply, a simple yes or no answer or monkey sign langauge will do :p lol
you a little :confused: ?

:D

I never had the alarm, but I assume its part of the keyless entry module, and I'd tell you where it is, but I don't know on the Ranger :p Just unplug it if you don't use keyless entry anymore.

I only had the 'panic' button on my keyless entry, and I just ripped that particular button off the key fob, since I hated having it in my pocket and accidentally pushing it. Or disconnecting sway bars at midnight at truckhaven and having it go off and waking up the rest of camp. :eek:
 




Jefe

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410Fortune said:
I see a serial link.....

So easiest way to do conversion is to get the module, cable, and key from the donor.
If the receiving vehicle is already PATS equiped then you need the PCM and PATS module from the donor. And then pay a locksmith to program your keys into the new PATS module. Othwise you'd have to rekey your truck or pull the transponder from the donor keys and your keys.
For a vehicle that doesn't have PATS get a new PCM and have PATS disabled. Or else you mine as well get the whole donor cause you're going to need harnesses behind the dash, ignition, keys, OBDII port, PATS, PCM, and whatever else you need that you needed the PCM for (engine, trans, etc).
 




DB_1

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Thanks Jefe, i'll try ant hunt down that module.

410, keyfob= keyless entry transmitter or black thingy with buttons on it that goes on your keychain :p
 




Offroadexplo

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could a local transmission shop do this conversion to my 92 sport manual trans?? i dont want manual anymore not in michigan way to much traffic....Thanks Matt
 




Jefe

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Offroadexplo said:
could a local transmission shop do this conversion to my 92 sport manual trans?? i dont want manual anymore not in michigan way to much traffic....Thanks Matt
Mechanically it is not hard to install. AA and Bowtie have it all figured out for you. Electrically it shouldn't be hard for you since you're currently manual, and 1st gen, all you'll have to track down is the reverse (on transmission) and neutral (clutch pedal switch) circuits.
 




Offroadexplo

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alright another question is could you list all the parts i need everythign from start to end just the stuff i need to buy not tools or anything and about howmuch itll run me thanks i appreciate it a lot thanks again..... Matt
 




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Jefe said:
I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.
I listed everything right there except for the shifter. I used a B&M Hammer shifter, but any shifter thats capable of shifting the 700R4 can be used. The part numbers for the AA parts are also listed earlier in this thread.
 




Offroadexplo

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thanks for everything now i need to wait for some money i really need to swap trans's cause this stock one just cant handle my abuse lol
 




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So did you ever get it smogged jeff? What did the smog guys say about the modified Y pipe?
 




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Jefe said:
I listed everything right there except for the shifter. I used a B&M Hammer shifter, but any shifter thats capable of shifting the 700R4 can be used. The part numbers for the AA parts are also listed earlier in this thread.


any chance the factory shifter on the column of my Ranger will work?
 




Jefe

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RockRanger said:
So did you ever get it smogged jeff? What did the smog guys say about the modified Y pipe?
It passed! :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
The only thing the guy was looking at under the truck was the suspension :D


fixer said:
any chance the factory shifter on the column of my Ranger will work?
I know someone (mrboyle?) got the factory column shifter to work, but I don't think he kept it that way. Also, it was a 1st gen that has positions for 4 gears (OD, D, 2, 1) where 95+ only have 3 (D, 2, 1).
 








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fixer said:
any chance the factory shifter on the column of my Ranger will work?

Yes and no (mostly no)! I was able to get the factory shifter to work by modifying the stock mounting bracket, but in order to get the geometry correct for the shifter to work smoothly the bracket has to hang down so low that I was afraid I'd rip it off. The other problem is you will have no provision for a netural saftey or back up light switch. Ford put the switch that controls these in the tranny and GM uses a switch mounted to the bottom of the steering column. I'm not saying that the shifter and switches can't be made to work, its just way more involved than its worth.
 


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turbowsr

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Jefe,
I AM doing this conversion on my '97 Aerostar. Tired of trying to find 5R parts, etc. 700r4's are everywhere. I am originally a Chevy guy. I just recently been getting into Fords.
Yes it's true, GM does not make an auto tranny (to my knowledge) that starts in 2nd. Wish they did, makes it nice on slick roads.
I am also going to document my progress. I have also found an adapter for about $67 to mount a V8 GM tranny to V6/60 engine. With this one and the Advanced Adapters adapter, one could put in a TH350, TH400, TH200-4r, or V8 TH700-r4. I have read that the V8 Bellhousing won't fit in an Explorer, because of clearance problems.
Well being a GM guy, I have a TH350 setting here, so I can mock it up and see how it clears in the Aerostar.
The one question I have for you is about the speedo. Since the 5R uses electric, how did you get this to work? or did you?
Jegs and Summit carry aftermarket electric speedo's I may go to, just wanted to check your success.

Thank you
Turbowsr
 




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