Jefe's 700R4 swap

I got tired of the computer deciding when my 5R55E transmission should shift, since it hadn't a clue with all the mods I've done so I decided It was time for a change. The two choices were a manual, or a 700R4 for a lower crawl ratio. I love having an auto in LA traffic (and Its grown on me wheeling) so I figured I'd be the first to put a 700R4 in a 2nd gen.

All my pics are here, and I'll link the important ones to the thread.

I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.

The trans arrives:

A few weeks before I put the trans in i decided to install the TV linkage. Somewhere between '91-'94 and 2000 the throttle body linkage changed size, so I got to modify it to fit Bowtie's TV setup. I figured since was modifying anyway I mine as well upgrade and so I threw in a BBK TB.

You can see where i ground the linkage down:

On another weekend I hacked up my center console and installed the B&M Hammer shifter. It sat a little low sitting on the floor, so I welded up a sub-frame for it out of 1" sq. tube. I plan to glass the cover in with the center console so it looks factory. (anyone want to show me how to glass?)

Part way installed:

The next step was to throw in the transmission in a weekend and hope everything else went smoothly since this is still my daily driver.

Friday night (5 hrs):
The first job was to get the control arms from the SFA out of the way, along with its bracketry:

Next, getting ready to take the t-case and transmission out:

Saturday (15 hrs):
With help, and a very tall floor jack (or a bunch of bricks ) remove t-case and transmission. Compare transmisions (AA tailshaft housing was installed previously, and the 700R4 was built with the AA output shaft):

Bolt AA adapter to engine:

Bolt adapter to torque converter and install:
I had to grind down the three bolts in order to get them flush w/ the adapter. Not sure if AA dropped the ball or what.

Bolt up trans:

Bolt up t-case:

Connect TV linkage:

Reroute cooler lines. I used rubber for now. I plan to replace with either braided stainless or hard lines. I had ordered the Bowtie overdrives lines, but they aren't long enough to reach the drivers side tank of the stock radiator, nor are they the right fittings for the radiator.

Sunday (10 hrs):
Wire up shifter. I brought the wires that went to the shift position switch on the 5R through the same hole as the shift cable. By rewraping the wire harness correctly, i didn't have to extend any wires, which was nice.
Wire up torque converter harness. I got bowties harness w/ manual lockup switch, and replaced my shifter handle with one that has a switch. so now I can lock the converter up when i'm climbing in 3rd gear. It works great.

Connect shifter, fill trans and start engine w/o exhaust Y-pipe to get neighbors attention

Modify exhaust. I had to crush the pre-cat on the passenger side in order to get the Y-pipe to fit. The O2 sensor on that side is fine. The O2 sensor on the other side clears the adapter plate by a 1/32", so others may need to grind the adapter to get it to fit. I figured I'd then drive it to an exhaust shop and have them remake my Y-pipe to fit better. However I found out that for such a new vehicle the O2 sensors and pre-cats have to be exact stock distances down the pipe to follow guidlines so no one wanted to help me there. I even talked with the local guy for a good 30 mins coming up with crazy ideas to get it to work, like remoting the oil filter and taking the exhaust around the outside of the frame rail. I ended up just using the tube that AA suplies to extend the Y-pipe so that the cats would bolt up sqaure and clear the trans. I may get to have fun when I need to smog this thing

exhaust pics:

I know I've left out many details, so if anyone has any questions, ask away.

 

[Jefe]

The one question I have for you is about the speedo. Since the 5R uses electric, how did you get this to work? or did you?

In 98 they moved the VSS on the explorer from the transmission back to the rear diff (doubling as the ABS sensor) so I didn't have to mess with it at all.

 

[turbowsr]

Thanks Jefe,

You got me thinking. When I dissassembled my 5R, I did not remove a VSS. So I got out my Chiltons, and it said it was in the tail shaft. I looked, nope, just a solid place that could be opened to accept the VSS. The only plugs on the tranny are the shaft speed sensors. The '97 Aerostar has rear ABS, so I am assuming that it also has the VSS in the rear diff.
Thanks for the information. This will help out alot. Now I am off to get my 700-R4.
Where is the least expensive place to get the Advance Adapter. I found it for $350 but cannot find the site again. $399 is the price I have found most often.

 

[turbowsr]

Ok Jefe and other explorer enthusiasts. Here is something I see from Jefe's picture (so different years may differ from his).

1) The front O2 sensor is just after the factory header on Jefe's, my '97 Aerostars is after the "Y" pipe combines on the passenger side.

2)Jefe's front Cadillytic (not Cadillac ) is before the "Y", Mine are inline after the "Y" and about 12 inches apart and 6 inches from the "Y". Since they are both on the passenger side, they are not much in the way.

3)My driver's side downpipe comes down then turns toward the drivers side then makes about a 270 degree turn toward the passenger side. Yes it sound weird, but this leaves lots of clearance on the drivers side for a larger tranny. Should be no need for the Advance Adapters pipe extension here.

4)This is the bad part of my engine, and the good of the Explorer's, my oil filter extension makes the oil filter point down and toward the rear. Just barely clearing the 5R's bellhousing, anything bigger contacts it. Looking at Jefe's pic's, it looks as though the Explorer's filter points straight down, not even near the tranny. I am going to go remote filter onto the frame, and away from any clearance problems. It's already too hard to get to now, and when filter is removed for replacement leaks oil into the aluminum shields on the exhaust. This traps the oil, may cause a fire hazard, I don't care for this setup.

5)My front O2 sensor points toward the midline of the vehicle, and will be in the way of any tranny larger than the 5R, which does not clear during removal. Crossed my fingers during removal that I did not pinch off wires. This will have to be placed 90 degree's toward the passenger side. This would make it clear just about everything. What the HE!! was Ford thinking hear (you also needed 2 O2 sensors when we replaced your tranny((you should always replace both O2's at the same time, otherwise you confuse your computer)))

Why do I tell you all this. Well seems to me that while doing the 700r4 upgrade, one COULD use the "Y" pipe/converter section from a 4.0l Aerostar. Whose worried about emissions laws at this point
I don't know myself how this would effect the computer by placing the O2 and first Converter about 20 inches downstream, and the first O2 sensor at the "Y" where it gets both sides of the engine, instead of just the drivers side. Would the O2 react outside the computers perameters?
Both converters, with this setup, would work on both exhaust at the same time, instead of one on the drivers and one on both sides. (that don't make sense to me). My '91 Crown Vic had one converter at the header connection on each side, then a second set about 20 inches downstream from there on each side, then to a "Y" pipe to a single exhaust. Made it easier to install duals, without modifying the converters.

I plan on putting my modifications of my '97 Aerostar on my website (www.turbowsr.com) It will be aerostar.turbowsr.com when set up. So if interested, check in now and then to see. I plan on being finished within 2 months. I can only work on this on the weekends, not much time during the week. I will post some pics soon showing the difference's I was talking about.

If Jefe allows me to use some of his pics on my website for comparison purposes. Jefe? full credits will be given where due.

I also started the preliminaries for building an adapter for a Ford 4.0l to GM V8 tranny. I am using my tranny as a guide. It is a GM multicase. In GM world there were the Chevy trannys and there were the BOP trannys. BOP means Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac. So you had trannys that would be Chevy bolt pattern, the BOP pattern, and the multicase that used both patterns. Then of course there is the 4 cyl/60 degree V6 pattern used in Advance Adapters, which Jefe used. NO 700R4 EVER used the BOP pattern as far as I know. This transmission was introduces after GM made BOP engines no longer and everyone went to the Chevy engine. BUT the 3.8 (the one FORD COPIED from GM) is a Buick engine, so maybe there ARE a few 700R4's with the BOP pattern. This gives the GM tranny only three main patterns V6/60, Chevy V8, BOP V6/V8.
By using the multicase design would allow the use of ANY RWD GM tranny. Personally I have used GM trannys without fluid/filter changers well over 100,000 miles. And many other GM owners can verify this. So a well taken care of, mildly abused, adiquitly(I am not a good speller, so forgive me on my spelling, please) maintained GM tranny should last about 200,000 to 300,000 miles before ANY rebuilds. So looking at the cost of a 4RLD,4RxxE, or 5R55E rebuild and replacment several times during the life of the vehicle before it is so far falling apart that it is worthless, will more than be saved by using the Advance Adapter and quality rebuilt GM tranny.
Take the $400 for the adapter, $1500 for tranny, then figure $800 for a Ford rebuilt tranny each by 2(?) per 100,000 miles added. 1600{(2x800)} x 3 = $4800 in Ford tranny at 300,000 miles vs about $2000 on the conversion.
Plus look for tranny parts for a GM product vs ANY other. They are everywhere and cheap. Plus GM used same parts accross many product lines. Very few "one offs" like Ford.

OK done with my rant. Don't get me wrong, I have loved my Fords (76 Pinto, 90 T-Bird, 91 Crown Vic, 84 Capri,97 Aerostar, getting a 90 Ranger XLT next month) just as much as my GM vehicles. My Grandfather worked 30 years at a GM plant, so I saw lots of them around.

So with research on this site (very informative for small chasis ford trucks), help from everyone here, and my experimentation, this could be a very exciting swap/conversion/Upgrade.

Jefe, I found a site talking about the bell housing and the different sized starter holes. And you were correct, it is a date thing. According to the site, if you were to go to Ford now and order a bellhousing, you would get the one you had. Not the older style. For that you have to go grave digging. I would just get the new bellhousing and the starter to go along with it. NO I WOULDN"T, I would (AM) going the 700R4 route.

More to come

 

[turbowsr]

Sorry that was so long, I didn't realize it until I posted. I just can never quit talking (typing)

 

[turbowsr]

The transmission is in. Just have to finish up on cooling lines and the tranny mount. For my application, I had a few driveshafts laying around from some GM cars. I found one, I believe, to be from a 79 Chevy Impala. I needed about 3" more (ON THE DRIVESHAFT) My concerns now are on the ECU. I have the OBD-II. Since yours is newer than 1996 (first year of OBD-ll), you would have the same problems I am looking to correct. Did the Bama chip work? I emailed them today. How does the tranny run down the road, how about the engine?
I am currently looking into fabricating an adapter so that the Ford transmission range sensor can be used.
Also a module to act as a translator to the ECM for the transmission, maybe even to allow the usage of a 4L60E transmission. I know this would not be needed with a "(Bama) Chip".
Another option could be to get a pre-OBD-ll ECM('96+), used with the A4LD. Since it only uses the Torque Converter Lockup and Overdrive lockup. Of course this could need a complete engine wire harness swap.
I am currently building my website of this build. And looking up all this information.

 

[Jefe]

My 700R4 just started acting up. . .no 3rd gear and very mushy shifts.
And I'm going out of town for a week so I'll have to wait to diagnose it.

 

[IZwack]

At the prices that fairly stock 700R4s are being sold at (compared to say 5r55s), you could put a backup 700r4 somewhere on ur X ready to be popped in!

 

[appx91]

I am about to do this swap on my 91' explorer. What computer problems might i run into? Jefe you got the stage 2 kit correct? Thanks in advance.

 

[Stic-o]

My 700R4 just started acting up. . .no 3rd gear and very mushy shifts.
And I'm going out of town for a week so I'll have to wait to diagnose it.

Maybe you got some water in it from azusa

 

[Jefe]

At the prices that fairly stock 700R4s are being sold at (compared to say 5r55s), you could put a backup 700r4 somewhere on ur X ready to be popped in!

LOL I've already got too many spare parts on my truck as is. Now a spare trans at home might not be such a bad idea.

I am about to do this swap on my 91' explorer. What computer problems might i run into? Jefe you got the stage 2 kit correct? Thanks in advance.

On a 91 you should not have any problems. Well, maybe the computer will tell you that the TC lockup solenoid is not there, but I think thats it. And yes, it was a stage 2.

Maybe you got some water in it from azusa

Unfortunatly I'm thinking that is it. Though the fluid looks fine on the dipstick, and is at the correct level so who knows.

 

[Stic-o]

I was thinking I would have the problem, sence I know the water was right below my doors With the BL that means, alot was in the water. Maybe I should check my fluid too.

Let me know what you find

 

[Ronin8002]

I am about to do this swap on my 91' explorer. What computer problems might i run into? Jefe you got the stage 2 kit correct? Thanks in advance.

On my 91 I had absolutely no computer problems at all. It was like the computer never even knew the difference.


On a side note, is anyone with the 700r4 tired of the vibration and buzzing noise coming from their shifter? My Lokar shifter conducts all of the tranny sound into the inside of the truck....harmless, but it's done this since I did the swap and it's starting to get under my skin. Anyone elses do this and any ideas on how to insulate the shifter to stop it?

 

[IZwack]

Cheaper 4.0->700R4 adapter

Dunno if this has been posted before but just in case.. for anyone considering doing the 700R4 swap:

I was browsing the web and ran into this 4.0L to 700r4 adapter thats about 50 dollars cheaper than the Advanced Adapter one:

http://www.transmissionhead.com/

Once you're at that page, do a browser search (CONTROL + F) for 'explorer' and the adapter should be the first thing you find.

The 700r4 to transfer-case adapter is also about 50 dollars cheaper so I guess that'd save you about 90-100 dollars if you bought both.

 

[Jefe]

On a side note, is anyone with the 700r4 tired of the vibration and buzzing noise coming from their shifter? My Lokar shifter conducts all of the tranny sound into the inside of the truck....harmless, but it's done this since I did the swap and it's starting to get under my skin. Anyone elses do this and any ideas on how to insulate the shifter to stop it?

Don't use the Lokar shifter.
I did look at it, and the lack of shifter cable is nice, but I didn't like anything else about it, so I went with the B&M shifter.

 

[appx91]

What do you guys think about this 700r4? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XSTR...990132816QQcategoryZ33727QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Would it be a better trans than the bowtie underdrives stage 2? Just wondering.

 

[appx91]

anyone?

 

[IZwack]

most of us here probably dont have a 700r4.. maybe try asking the same question in a chevy forum? thatll probably result in more responses... gluck.

 

[xmodster3o3]

Looking at the feedback, they sound good. Only thing I don't like, no paypal.

 

[Jefe]

What do you guys think about this 700r4? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XSTR...990132816QQcategoryZ33727QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Would it be a better trans than the bowtie underdrives stage 2? Just wondering.

If they could put all that into a 60deg V6 (as that one is a V8) case that sounds very nice.

 

[appx91]

K that was my next question as I was just reading about the 90 and 60 degree differences. Have you ever figured out what was wrong with yours Jefe? Thanks guys.