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Joe Dirt's Stock V8 economy findings thread

Joe Dirt

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Year, Model & Trim Level
07 Camry
Ok, just to introduce some food for thought. I have recently purchased the OBD bluetooth dongle and Torque for my Android.

I have been driving with it for about a week now, and have made some interesting observations which some go contrary to my past thoughts. The overall readings are still spot on to previous calculator findings, so I have no reason to not believe the results.

I'm running a bone stock 2000 V8, with no "fuel economy mods" except for a roof rack that has been removed. I'm not putting in a CAI, a chip, a tuner, or anything else. I'm really not interested in improving the economy beyond what I can do by changing how I drive, the whole point of this thread is simply to post some results so everyone can finally see what their truck is doing, how it acts, and what your various scenarios are as seen and reported by your OBD system.

If you want me to try something, let me know, maybe I will- so you can say "hmmm, that's interesting, I thought it would be different than that..."

Anyway, here is my initial finding-

When accelerating from a light, in general, keeping at "under 2,000 RPM's" means running at about 17-25% throttle. Problem is, that under the instant readings, when the Ex (at least my V8) when accelerating at all, I see about 4-8 MPG regardless of how hard I'm accelerating up to about 50% throttle, which is a pretty good clip. The instant MPG will start to rise as the truck speeds up simply because you're covering more ground per the gas you're burning- to about 12 MPG when at about 30-35 mph. Problem is, that it takes too long to easily creep up to 40-45 doing that, and your overall trip economy will suffer. That was contrary to what I thought it would show. I thought it would show much better as compared to a harder acceleration. Not so...

I've found that over the course of a few miles, I lose a lot of overall economy doing the "under 2,000 RPM" thing vs. what I'm doing now. ANY acceleration drops it to 12-13 MPG. The thing is a hog, so as much steady throttle and especially coasting- is what will be your helper. Not easy throttle- even easy throttle equals sub-13 MPG and hurts your overall reading.

Now when leaving a light, I'll smoothly accelerate to 40 or 45 (local speed limits in the city) at about 40% throttle. That felt weird to me at first since it seems like I'm burning more gas. Not so. The instant MPG readings were exactly the same, but I was able to hit 40-45 much faster, then throttle out, and completely shift out back to 1200 RPM and maintain throttle.

I would estimate that I lose about .5 AVG MPG over the course of an acceleration to 45 when feathering the throttle to 40-45, when smoothly accelerating up at 40% throttle, I only lose .1 AVG MPG.

At 40-45 I see 21-24 MPG instant, and that drives me up accordingly. I'll have to get some screenshots of the acceleration readings, as they're quite interesting...

Here are some speed comparisons, for everyone's entertainment. These are the AWD V8 on the city streets or highway, flat land runs, steady throttle to maintain speed, at about 80*F, about 50% humidity.

Disregard the AVE MPG readings, as the screen shots were taken at different times, I just put them in this order for ease of reading the post as increasing MPH readings. The instant readings are the top left corner. The other gauges are listed for your entertainment and knowledge.


40 MPH

screenshot.jpg





58 MPH

screenshot-4.jpg





66 MPH

screenshot-3.jpg





70 MPH

screenshot-2.jpg



Way more things to try yet, but thought I'd post the initial findings here as it can be an ongoing thread...
 



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I usually accelerate at 1/3 throttle myself, but my truck isn't stock, so it is gonna run different anyway. I go by the computer, vacuum and what seems to average out the best. The biggest gain to be found in town is anticipating stop lights anf coasting before stop. People get right on your bumper and you can see murder in their eyes when you *GASP* let off the gas before coming to a stop light instead of accelerating all the way there then slamming on your brakes at the last minute, but really, I think that is where most of my fuel savings comes from. But, your preliminary results look pretty close to what I get out of mine.

Keep up the good work, I love seeing real world data. By the way, what are the yellow and red arrows on the tach?
 






I'll have to look to see what the arrows are, I'd assume that they're levels of some sort. Lots to learn on this program...

You're pretty close on the 1/3 throttle, I was just quite surprised as how bad the economy was at a feathered throttle vs. a very hearty acceleration. Very eye-opening for me on how I drive. Interesting on how what you thought was saving money was costing you $$ in the process.

I'll put up some vacuum readings at 40% throttle, so you can compare vs. your gauge to see how close they are...
 






Comparisons to mine will be kind of off... My engine isn't stock.
 






eh, could be interesting to compare the vac readings then... :)
 






I'll put the vacuum gauge back in... One of these days I should pick up a gauge pod and leave gauges in the truck :D
 






wow, i think that is a whole lot better then i'm getting. if i went off the message center, doing around 70 mph, i was getting around 18-19 mpg
 






Tim- wheel diameters? I would think the weight lost vs. a 4-door would make up for that though, no?
 






Tim, you have 4.10 gears don't you? That will hurt on the highway.

Joe what gears do you have 3.55? 3.73?

The gearing definitely will change the speed at which you can cruise to get optimal MPG.

Out of curiosity what is the weight difference between 4 and 2 doors? I know with a 1/4 tank and me in the car i top out at 4600 on the scale(I have a skid plate, 265s and 4 door leafs though).
 






wheels, ok, but they are a stock size tire diameter. but keep in mind also, have headers, have ported heads, have a 4406 manual t case. even with 4.10 vs 3.73 the donor had, that isn't to much of a jump. i also dont thing a 4 door is to much heavier. maybe by i would say 300 lbs.
 












3.73's for me...

I said I wasn't going to do any economy mods, so neither a Flux Capacitor nor a Mr. Fusion will be seeing an installation... :D
 






I gotta get this program for my android! They I can find out what the heck is going on in JP finally!:JP:
 






You didn't test it at 88mph? You need to find if you have enough fuel to get back to the future.


screenshot-6.jpg





Should be good- I run 255+ MPG at 88 MPH just after entering time travel mode. Actually, I had just let off the throttle. :D
 






calculating mpg?

It would be interesting to find out how mpg is computed since actual fuel flow is never measured. Fuel flow could be estimated by the width of the injector pulse and the rpm but only if the bench flow is known for the injectors, the fuel pressure does not change from an assumed value, and the injectors are not clogged. I suspect mpg is based on calculated engine load based on MAF sensor output voltage, RPM from crankshaft position sensor and possibly TPS output voltage. The PCM does not have access to intake manifold vacuum readings which would be helpful. I assume that the vehicle speed PID is used.

What happens to mpg before and after transmission upshift?
 






Well what are still doing here in this timeline talking to us?

screenshot-6.jpg





Should be good- I run 255+ MPG at 88 MPH just after entering time travel mode. Actually, I had just let off the throttle. :D
 






Dale,

I'll try to post a vid of a couple of runs with differing acceleration levels. That might be helpful...

Also, here is a list of the available stock app readings. Obviously, Ford doesn't support all of them, there are separate Ford PID's but I can't find a published list...

Types of display:

Quote:
Dial (round)
Dial (meter)
Graph
Digital display
Fuel status
Secondary air status
Fuel & air status
Eco warrior
Raw data display
Drive cycle status since DTC clear
Current drive cycle status
GPS positioning
Clock
Sensors it will display:
Quote:
0-100kph time
0-60mph time
1/4 mile time
1/8 mile time
Acceleration sensor (total)
Acceleration sensor (x axis)
Acceleration sensor (y axis)
Acceleration sensor (z axis)
Ambient air temp
Barometric pressure
Catalyst temperatire (bank 1, sensor 1)
Catalyst temperatire (bank 1, sensor 2)
Catalyst temperatire (bank 2, sensor 1)
Catalyst temperatire (bank 2, sensor 2)
EGR commanded
EGR error
Engine coolant temperature
Engine load
Engine oil temperature
Engine RPM
Fuel level
Fuel pressure
Fuel rail pressure (diesel)
Fuel trim bank 1 long term
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 2
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 3
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 4
Fuel trim bank 1 short term
Fuel trim bank 2 long term
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 2
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 3
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 4
Fuel trim bank 2 short term
GPS accuracy
GPS altitude
GPS bearing
GPS satellites
GPS vs OBD speed difference
Horsepower
Intake air temperature Intake manifold pressure
Kilometers per litre
Kilometers per litre (average)
Litres per 100 kilometer
Litres per 100 kilometer (average)
Mass air flow rate
Miles per gallon (average)
Miles per gallon (instant)
O2 volts bank 1 sensor 1
O2 volts bank 1 sensor 2
O2 volts bank 1 sensor 3
O2 volts bank 1 sensor 4
O2 volts bank 2 sensor 1
O2 volts bank 2 sensor 2
O2 volts bank 2 sensor 3
O2 volts bank 2 sensor 4
Speed (GPS)
Speed (OBD)
Throttle position
Timing advance
Torque
Transmission temperature (method 1)
Transmission temperature (method 2)
Trip distance
Turbo boost & vacuum gauge
Voltage (control module)
Voltage (OBD adapter)

Honestly, this app is blowing up so fast, people are writing new PID's every day- the Ford diesel guys are having a field day... :)

I'll try to do some data logging, as it also supports that function.
 






every vehicle is different but for each one the best thing to do is to drive in the powerband for best mpg.

I have a scangauge and do the same exact testing. when you try to granny it accelerating from a stop it actually hurts your mpg.
 






Reading PIDs

I'm fairly confident the "OBD bluetooth dongle" is merely reading the PCM generated "miles per gallon (instant)" and "miles per gallon (average)" PIDs. As I recall this is merely a lookup table in the PCM software data base that is indexed by computed "engine load" that is calculated from "mass air flow rate", "engine RPM", and possibly "throttle position" and "engine coolant temperature". My point is that the fuel economy is based on previously established laboratory testing and not real-time instrumentation. Engine compression, transmission slip, aerodynamic drag, vehicle weight, rolling resistance, etc. may differ significantly from the baseline laboratory testing. Therefore, "miles per gallon (instant)" and "miles per gallon (average)" PIDs may not be accurate.
 



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I'd swear that ECU fuel economy PIDs are generated using injector pulse width versus the signal from VSS. Since the VSS is supposed to work out to 4000 pulses per mile, and the fuel pressure is fairly predictable as is bench flow rate for injectors, it shouldn't be very far off. Granted, those values can vary by vehicle or injector slightly, and can vary slightly due to changes in vacuum to the FPR, but... It is about as close as one can get.

I am not 100% though of course. I suppose I'll have to troll some board where some of those homebrew standalone guys have hacked EEC-V and EEC-VI.
 






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