Jon And Sheri's Vitamin D Wagon

[Mbrooks420]

Looking nice. I like the stance.

This is something LED's actually do well. We have some sitting sround at work that look like florescent bulbs, but are made of acrylic. I would have done something with them, but of course they are red. We also have a sample strip that is made out of clear silicon, and is super flexible, but of course that is also red.

 

[CDW6212R]

I was thinking of your sidewalk, and then the picture made sense. That's ingenuity, thinking wisely, cool.

 

[Anime]

Maybe the running issue is still the exhaust, although if you got rid of a 3/4" restriction and now have 2.5" pipe out the back that should do it. Is that same exhaust tip still on there? The pics from earlier in the thread make it look like a ricer bolt on tip with a baffle plate, which will do a tremendous job of increasing backpressure, which would explain why it still feels like there's a bottleneck on the high end. It could still be the muffler itself. Otherwise maybe it's still part of the CA/Non-CA hardware that's left? I didn't read anything on whether or not you figured out if the rest of the fuel system and injectors were the same for all models, or if you stopped at replacing the wiring.

As for the aerodynamics, the roof is a rather cricial component, and it being gone, plus the parachute of the open back end and the spare isn't helping. You'll likely get better mileage with the top on if that's the cause, but nothing is going to get around the gearing/large tire issue. 4.10's and 35's is a very slow combo, even for the torquey 4.0L.

I'd say lose the sway bar and get some really good shocks on all 4 corners instead if your aim is firm handling along with controlling body roll. Sure a sway bar works, but on a ride lifted that much on 35's it's pretty silly.

Not sure if you wound up having the catalytic converter replaced as you posted, or if you just had it gutted instead, but just in case you went with the second option, if the fine and jail time isn't bad enough, you may want to think about the combination of the toxic unconverted exhaust gases and your open top/back vehicle with it's potential passengers, not to mention everyone else on the road or trail.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cats do not make the exhaust safe to breathe, nor do they magically remove all chemicals or pollutants. They do convert a couple of gaseous byproducts deemed unhealthy, into other byproducts which are also unhealthy but not regulated.

 

[Turdle]

Maybe the running issue is still the exhaust, although if you got rid of a 3/4" restriction and now have 2.5" pipe out the back that should do it. Is that same exhaust tip still on there? The pics from earlier in the thread make it look like a ricer bolt on tip with a baffle plate, which will do a tremendous job of increasing backpressure, which would explain why it still feels like there's a bottleneck on the high end. It could still be the muffler itself. Otherwise maybe it's still part of the CA/Non-CA hardware that's left? I didn't read anything on whether or not you figured out if the rest of the fuel system and injectors were the same for all models, or if you stopped at replacing the wiring.

As for the aerodynamics, the roof is a rather cricial component, and it being gone, plus the parachute of the open back end and the spare isn't helping. You'll likely get better mileage with the top on if that's the cause, but nothing is going to get around the gearing/large tire issue. 4.10's and 35's is a very slow combo, even for the torquey 4.0L.

I'd say lose the sway bar and get some really good shocks on all 4 corners instead if your aim is firm handling along with controlling body roll. Sure a sway bar works, but on a ride lifted that much on 35's it's pretty silly.

Not sure if you wound up having the catalytic converter replaced as you posted, or if you just had it gutted instead, but just in case you went with the second option, if the fine and jail time isn't bad enough, you may want to think about the combination of the toxic unconverted exhaust gases and your open top/back vehicle with it's potential passengers, not to mention everyone else on the road or trail.

The tip is gone.


There is no other CA hardware on the truck. However, I am going to swap out the fuel pressure regulator--since I have another, newer looking one laying on the shelf. I have read a lot of "bad mileage" threads, with 11mpg as the complaint. These almost always end with replacing the FPR

I also expect the top to help aerodynamically.


I have good shocks on all 4 corners. They are brand new, pro comps from wild horses, and I like the ride they give.
The sway bar can be disconnected, and, hung out of the way using no tools, so I don't see how it can be called silly. It works well.

As for the legal, and pollution issues, you are making an assumption aren't you? :

 

[Burns]

Jon the only thing that I run is one glass pack with no glass in it.

 

[Turdle]

Jon the only thing that I run is one glass pack with no glass in it.

Those glass packers are always slacking off huh?

 

[IZwack]

Cats do not make the exhaust safe to breathe, nor do they magically remove all chemicals or pollutants. They do convert a couple of gaseous byproducts deemed unhealthy, into other byproducts which are also unhealthy but not regulated.

x2 - I once accidentally (the wind shifted) inhaled the exhaust while looking at the rear shackles one night and I woke up the next morning with my head spinning and throwing up.

 

[crazyflights]

I have ran 35s with 5.13 gears and is way to low geared then for high range even, would not recommend it, 4.88s with 35s are about perfect. IMO, your loosing tons of mpg cause 4.10 and 35s =suck on power..

 

[Anime]

The pro comps and most other kit branded shocks are usually just generic low pressure double tubes with a name on them, or sometimes low-end Rancho/Monroes. They ride nice, but high pressure monotube shocks tend to do better both in terms of controlling tire/wheel/axle action and body roll. My suggestion is usually shocks over a sway bar for such lifted rides since it's a lot simpler than trying to work out a modified anti-sway system. Besides the welded-on ends to the sway bar you have on there now, the fabricated extensions look like they are rather short, and the bar is already extended pretty far downwards with them attached to the axle. You probably don't plan on wheeling with it attached, and maybe the hardware is strong enough to withstand the forces involved, but it just doesn't look like a very safe setup, and something like an anti-sway system giving way on a lifted SUV is just bad.

I'm making assumptions on the converter, sure. But it seems to be a common "mod" even though it does a lot more harm then good, both to the vehicle and people. I just thought it was worth pointing out the additional dangers of doing so with the particulars of your specific vehicle since you posted the converter was getting replaced but then posted you had done something else, and a lot of your work has been towards making this vehicle safe for you and your family to enjoy. Unconverted exhaust gases ARE more dangerous and more toxic than converted gases, though neither is preferable to clean air. It's just a shame when the old school thinking on converters is applied to modern vehicles, at everyone else's physical expense.

 

[Turdle]

The pro comps and most other kit branded shocks are usually just generic low pressure double tubes with a name on them, or sometimes low-end Rancho/Monroes. They ride nice, but high pressure monotube shocks tend to do better both in terms of controlling tire/wheel/axle action and body roll. My suggestion is usually shocks over a sway bar for such lifted rides since it's a lot simpler than trying to work out a modified anti-sway system. Besides the welded-on ends to the sway bar you have on there now, the fabricated extensions look like they are rather short, and the bar is already extended pretty far downwards with them attached to the axle. You probably don't plan on wheeling with it attached, and maybe the hardware is strong enough to withstand the forces involved, but it just doesn't look like a very safe setup, and something like an anti-sway system giving way on a lifted SUV is just bad.

I'm making assumptions on the converter, sure. But it seems to be a common "mod" even though it does a lot more harm then good, both to the vehicle and people. I just thought it was worth pointing out the additional dangers of doing so with the particulars of your specific vehicle since you posted the converter was getting replaced but then posted you had done something else, and a lot of your work has been towards making this vehicle safe for you and your family to enjoy. Unconverted exhaust gases ARE more dangerous and more toxic than converted gases, though neither is preferable to clean air. It's just a shame when the old school thinking on converters is applied to modern vehicles, at everyone else's physical expense.

Points all taken.

I win, because my response is shorter then yours. :


I'm kidding.
I do not expect the sway bar to fail. So far I see no stress fractures in the powder coat or weld. At some point we need to trust a weld you know.

I do plan on making some sexier end links with heims. They will be a little longer. However the bar being "upside down" makes for a pretty level arm. I think the main thing to worry about is the forces inside the sway bar bushing. Heck, the bushing bracket should bend before any other component does. I feel ok with it.
Besides, I have been around enough to know that any shock that would control the resonating sway I was experiencing, would have to ride like a steel wheeled wagon. My spine needs the cush.



As for the exhaust you can rest easy. I have 5 grand-kids which need air too.

I am sorry if I don't have the resources to buy the expensive things you think I require to make this a safe vehicle. I guess you'd just have to drive it for yourself, if you dare

Heck, at least give me credit for ridding the truck of the lift blocks.

 

[Anime]

I haven't seen the sway bar in action and am just going by the pics you posted, but it just looks to me that because of the short length and the links being already at an angle and not vertical, the end link on the low side would bind under flex, going straight and then holding the axle, preventing it from going any lower before it snaps something, either the sway bar, the mount, or the hardware. (My guess is it would rip the bushing since it has the bushings with holes above the sway bar) Maybe that's not the case and there's more slop in it and it handles normal travel better than appears from the pics. If it doesn't deform those rubber bushings, it's probably okay.

You're right about the shocks...but those huge sidewalls should cushion the ride.

I wasn't saying you need expensive things to make it safe, just that saving a few bucks by hollowing out a factory converter isn't worth the legal or physical consequences compared to spending all of 50 bucks on a new aftermarket 3-way and some pipe..or even just getting a good one off an old Explorer.

Getting the blocks off was great...BUT did you properly stack the leafs when you mixed and matched them? If not I'll get on your case about that too.


You'd let someone else drive your truck after all this work?

 

[Turdle]

Can you catch a set of keys?

 

[corkey]

i can catch a set of keys if he doesn't want to,,

 

[techieman33]

update?

 

[section525]

Not a single picture on this page.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

And it's almost Vitam D's anniversary.

 

[kert0307]

Is this still running around topless?

 

[Turdle]

No the top is still not finished. I am assured it is a matter of sewing the panels together, with fitment on Thursday.

So
I am going to pick up the truck tonight so I can install an Aussie locker in the rear axle. It's open right now, and considering we are wheeling this weekend I need to get it in there. It is sitting on the shelf taking up room anyway.

From what I have read it is pretty easy and quick to put one in.

 

[techieman33]

No the top is still not finished. I am assured it is a matter of sewing the panels together, with fitment on Thursday.

So
I am going to pick up the truck tonight so I can install an Aussie locker in the rear axle. It's open right now, and considering we are wheeling this weekend I need to get it in there. It is sitting on the shelf taking up room anyway.

From what I have read it is pretty easy and quick to put one in.

The top and locker will be nice since rain is in the forecast for this weekend.