JoshC's SAS #2 | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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JoshC's SAS #2

I guess i'll follow the trend like so many others on here. D44, 9" full width. I picked these axles up late last year or early this year i don't remember and they've been in the garage taking up space. I've been gathering parts for a little while too.

So far i've got:
-Yukon 5.13's
-Quick Loc locker for the D44
-Full steel spool for the 9"
-Radius arms drilled and tapped to fit the lower ranger coil bucket so i can keep my existing coils
-New ubolts for the leafs

I think that's about all i've got. The 9" third member is done, we regearded it a couple of weeks ago. We started on the 44 and quickly noticed that the idiot at the local off road shop, which is no longer in business, sold me a low pinion gear set :mad: So now i'm stuck with this gear i can't even use :fire:

Here's what i got done last night and today


I'm head up to the shop tonight to swap my tires over to my new rims. I think i may pick up a set of new radius arms, maybe something like the james duff arms like these


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I sent the dude a nasty gram and within minutes i have my $50 back and my tracking number :D Packages will be here on the 18th, i'll be sure to post pics.

Tranny is suppose to be ready on tuesday or wednesday. If i can get a flexplate/torque converter combo to work then i'll have the tranny bolted up one evening. I've got a B&M ratchet shifter coming too, should be sweet.

Wonder what my chances are of my drive shafts fitting still? I'm not really worried about it, but that would be one less thing to work on i guess.

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Where you able to get diffrent frame mounts with the cage arms? I have heard rumors of a new style frame mount for rigs with channel frames instead od the box frame of the early broncos

I didn't ask about it. What it comes with i probably won't use anyways cause i'm going to make a new tranny cross member and i think these will end up tieing in at about the same place.

Anyone know the technical name for the spacer that goes between the flexplate and crank?? I need that before i can do anything. C5 is ready waiting on my bell housing so they can put the proper torque on it and i was suppose to mock up the bell housing and torque converter for a starter fit and i can't do that because i don't have the freaking spacer, so help please :D

washers....?LOL sorry I dont...

so get the front end in yet?

Nope :D Lol, i believe that RedRanger and myself are competeing for the longest SAS in explorerforum history!

I've really been waiting on my tranny to get done and installed before i can get the axle in.

I ordered that spacer for the crank from ford yesterday and it is in, i'm headed down to pick it up right now. I'm going to run back here and fit it for a starter really quick and then take the bell housing to the shop so he can get it built tomorrow. Oh and it's just called a spacer. The 8 hole spacer was late production year 97, so really a 98 and the 6 hole was lower in years. 8 hole was $16 and the 6 hole is $62, go figure.:eek:

Cage arms are in, got a new torque converter and last night i was finishing installing the last ujoint on the D44 and it wouldn't fit. Same part number as the one i had, just a different size, by about 1/16", so i've got to pick up one of those tonight.

Nope :D Lol, i believe that RedRanger and myself are competeing for the longest SAS in explorerforum history!

Dont Worry I will forever hold that record

lol I think that is a record i'll let you keep.

So i got my spacer at ford today. Got home and got it and the flex plate mounted. I put the bell housing on there so i could get an idea for a starter. Mine doesn't work. Bolts up fine, but it's a no go, to short. I need the bendix and bendix house to be about 1" longer. Anyone happen to have a starter from and automatic laying around the could measure for me?

I told the shop i wanted the tranny back friday so i could do some work. He had to order a spring for the govenor which should be in tomorrow.

Tomorrow i'm going to try to get my rear rotors to a machinst friend who said he could turn the inside of the housing down so i can finally get my disc brakes done on the back and get my wheels on it!

Alright, quick question.

This is a piece of the CAGE arms. I'm not sure what this hole is for cause it's small, but the piece i'm holding is the lower coil retainers/seats for the a 1st gen that i got from a buddy. They fit my springs, which is what i want to keep. You think i'd be safe to drill this existing hole out and tap it? I think i will since it's not holding pressure at all.


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If that is the top, then that hole is for the lower coil spring seat there should be a hole on top the other front piece also

What springs are you running?

I think you'll be okay to do that, but you want to get that endcap and the radius arms mounted to the axle with degree bushings first so you know were to drill both holes.

Yes there is a hole like that on the other piece. 5.5 wild horse springs

The radius arms i got with from my buddy he had bolted them together and then drilled and tapped hole right in the middle where the two meet, kind of hard to explain. So he would have had his coils mount right square in the middle of the tube. If i drill these holes out then it's going to be just to the rear of center of the tube.

Got the tranny back today. The dude cut me a break because i've been so easy going about getting it back. Paid $200 less for it then what he quoted :D

Also got my rotors and CAGE parts back from the machine shop.

I installed a ujoint in the my axle shaft and slid it in and i was going to go ahead and finish the D44 up tonight by my cylinder on my press kicked the bucket, so i'm going to have to go pick up another one. I got the studs most of the way in on the new hubs, but i need to press them all the way in before i put them on.

I decided to work on my rear disc brakes a bit. The rotors lacked just a smidge of going on the axle shafts, so a minute with the grinder on the shaft and she slid on. I'm having some problems getting my pads to fit when i get the rotors bolted to my brackets, so i'm trying to find some answers on PBB from others who have the same setup.

I have no idea what setup you're running, but sometimes you have to shave pads down a bit to get certain calipers to work with certain rotors.

I've got El Durado calipers with CJ rotors. Here is what i just posted on PBB.

I used CJ rotors. I haven't even tried to fit it over the rotors yet, i just can't seem to get the outter pad to fit perfectly in the caliper. The body of the caliper has a curve to it where the caliper and pad meet at the top of the pad, if that makes any sense. It doesn't want to sit flush, so when i slide the pad down to get a good even seat, then i can't get the mounting bolts through it because the ears of the pad are in the way.

Well i got the brakes figured out, just wasn't holding my tongue right :p:

Got a few things done tonight. Here is the position on 9" disc brakes, this is the drivers side. At this position the bleeder screw is at it's highest point, just above the axle tube.



I got those tacked on and also cut out some spacers to go between the studs and the rotors stud holes which are bigger. Pretty common problem when making 9" disc kits.

So now that i've got that out of the way, i went to work on the front axle so i could button it up. But i've got a problem. I'm building this blind (newb), so please don't flame, just help :D

This picture should be pretty self explanitory, it doesn't fit.


Does this right? Wasn't sure.



Put the rotor on the hub, and a backing plate on the knuckle and a caliper on the backing plate -- that will tell you whether or not that hub (not the hub lockout, the hub) is sitting all the way in (if the rotor fits between the calipers). Cauz right now I'm not sure you have the hub all the way in. Sometimes its difficult to get it to seat all the way in when you have new bearings.

Good idea. I'll have to try that today. The hubs didn't slide on easy, like you said because of the new bearings. I had to tap it on with a block of wood.

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ya, get everything together than worry about the hub. Mine goes in tight on the drivers side as well, tap the opening apart a bit and it slides in fine.