Just beginning, seeking any advice someone may think could help

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Just bought my 97 v8 5.0 and explorer not to long ago. Havnt drove her more than the ride home and relocating in the drive. Has 240000miles roughly and it sat for 6 months or so before I bought it. Unsure of what exactly has been done recently so I'm just assuming everything is past due. I'm changing plugs and wires ( plugs look original and wires are mix and match) I want to change all the fluids if necessary unless there would be a reason not to. Open to ideas on what brands are best for reliability and quality.Engine oil only has 12 percent life expectancy left according to face monitor so that needs changed along with a new filter. Want to change transmission fluid and filter, open to any good input on that one because I've heard many different opinions. Also want to treat with Lucas transmission, and Lucas engine oil stabilizer, deadpan the gas and change the front and back differential grease/oil . I also need to get a new battery. Any size and brand recommendations? There is an issue with the powersteering. It seems to go in and out depending on the position of the steering wheel. Like ever 1/6 of a turn it gets hard then comes right out of it for the next few inches of turning but then goes back into being hard to turn for an inch or so keeping this pattern wherever its turned to like a pie sliced in six pieces and if the steering wheel where the pie, steering would be difficult in only the places the pie was cut...get it? I've made an educated guess that it is possibly the rack and pinion causing the issue. I've had a few experienced mechanics agree with me based on my description. Any ideas? Agreements or dissagreeements? Also would there be any negative side effects from me making all four tires bigger without modifying suspintuon or lift? Will be back with more info and questions thanks a bunch for any help

 

[koda2000]

Battery = Group size 65 any brand you like, In my area, NAPA has the best price @ $90

Power steering - There is air in the system. This happens when the wheels are turned with the engine off. Drive the vehicle in a parking lot while turning the steering wheel from lock-to-lock while doing slow figure eights. Common issue.

Brake fluid fluid flush - Be careful to not let the fluid reservoir run dry, because that will introduce air into the ABS pump, which usually requires special equipment to get out. Also check the brake line running the width of the rear axle. It is known for rusting out and leaking.

I would not add Lucas (or any other additives) to the oil or trans. You don't need it.

Larger tires - Only issue (other than messing with your speedometer) is that you must make sure they don't rub on anything.

Transmission - Check the color of the fluid. If bright pink, leave it alone. If brown do a pan drop, filter change and refill. If black, you can drain the torque converter also. If full drain refill with Mercon V ATF (current Ford spec).

Power steering fluid should probably be flushed (and the brake fluid too). Refill the power steering with Mercon V.

Diffs - Front diff was to be removed to drain it (or you can suck it out with a transfer pump. Use recommended gear oil in both (front is different spec than rear).

I don't know what "dead pan the gas" means. If it's only sat for 6 months, the gas is probably still okay. Do replace the fuel filter though.

For spark plugs and wires, I'd recommend you use Motorcraft double platinum plugs (or Autolite's) and Motorcraft brand plug wires. Hopefully the PO replaced the spark plugs fairly recently, because living in the rust-belt they can be very hard to get out and even snap off in the heads.

If you don't have an owner's manual you can probably download one.

IDK how the oil monitor works (I suspect it's just a clock), but I ignore it as after changing my oil last fall and not using my EB until a few weeks ago the monitor told me I had 12% oil life left on Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15,000 mile/12 month Extended Performance oil. My vehicles seldom do more than 5000-8000 miles a year, so I use EP oil and change it every fall, otherwise I'd be doing oil changes every week and trying to keep track of 6 vehicles.

Tip: Check your ball joints and tie rod ends for wear. If you front sway bar end-links are still there (they tend to break and fall off) replace them, because the bushings are probably shot.

 

[96eb96]

Just bought my 97 v8 5.0 and explorer not to long ago. Havnt drove her more than the ride home and relocating in the drive. Has 240000miles roughly and it sat for 6 months or so before I bought it. Unsure of what exactly has been done recently so I'm just assuming everything is past due. I'm changing plugs and wires ( plugs look original and wires are mix and match) I want to change all the fluids if necessary unless there would be a reason not to. Open to ideas on what brands are best for reliability and quality.Engine oil only has 12 percent life expectancy left according to face monitor so that needs changed along with a new filter. Want to change transmission fluid and filter, open to any good input on that one because I've heard many different opinions. Also want to treat with Lucas transmission, and Lucas engine oil stabilizer, deadpan the gas and change the front and back differential grease/oil . I also need to get a new battery. Any size and brand recommendations? There is an issue with the powersteering. It seems to go in and out depending on the position of the steering wheel. Like ever 1/6 of a turn it gets hard then comes right out of it for the next few inches of turning but then goes back into being hard to turn for an inch or so keeping this pattern wherever its turned to like a pie sliced in six pieces and if the steering wheel where the pie, steering would be difficult in only the places the pie was cut...get it? I've made an educated guess that it is possibly the rack and pinion causing the issue. I've had a few experienced mechanics agree with me based on my description. Any ideas? Agreements or dissagreeements? Also would there be any negative side effects from me making all four tires bigger without modifying suspintuon or lift? Will be back with more info and questions thanks a bunch for any help

The steering wheel could be the steering shaft U joint binding up.

Also, how does it shift between first and second gear? Normal or delayed?

 

[deadernie]

Transfer case takes Motorcraft XL-12 transfer case fluid.

I had sort of a similar problem with my Ex which sat for two years with the steering pumped out the PS fluid reservoir and the fluid was dark grey. Refilled, short drive with a few lock to lock figure 8s in a local parking lot and repeated like four times. Steering got pretty smooth after that.

By the way, my gas was nearly empty and the oil was due to be changed when parked. I just put 5 gal of 93 in it and ran with it. I even got the battery to take a charge.

 

[96eb96]

Transfer case takes Motorcraft XL-12 transfer case fluid.

I had sort of a similar problem with my Ex which sat for two years with the steering pumped out the PS fluid reservoir and the fluid was dark grey. Refilled, short drive with a few lock to lock figure 8s in a local parking lot and repeated like four times. Steering got pretty smooth after that.

By the way, my gas was nearly empty and the oil was due to be changed when parked. I just put 5 gal of 93 in it and ran with it. I even got the battery to take a charge.

Yeah, absolutely no harm to swap PS fluid. Pump 2-3 quarts thru the return line while the ignition is disconnected, front jacked up and someone turns the wheel up and back. Make sure the tank stays full while they move the wheel back and forth.

Geometric binding like he describes sounds like a ball joint or shaft U joint. Can't hurt to spray down the U joints on the steering shaft.

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Thanks for the advice, you cleared quite a bit up for me. I had no idea that such a think could be my issue with the power steering pump. I was convinced that it was Probly a gear in the rack that was bent or broke.I wouldn't have had to pay for it, but swaping that rack would have been a pain especially for it to not work. I have a 98 4 door that I have free reign on for any parts I need. It was crashed and rolled a couple times but everything major is salvageable. If there's anything you think I should remove from it just to have on hand let me know. I only have so long to get everything I want from it then it will be junked.
The brake fluid res is between 1/2 and 2/3 way full. No Lucas? For neither engine or tranny? Just curious but why? I have heard it works wonders on a high mileage vehicles. Did you have a bad experience with it? It will be a while before I change the tire size if I even do. I may just lift it a little bit I havnt decided. That's for down the road after its all in decent working order. Transmission fluid is dark but not necessarily black. It doesn't have a burnt smell that I can smell either. If I do end up changing tranny fluid would it be wise to go ahead and change the fluid in the torque converter anyway? What is your opinion on the popular belief that changing the tranny fluid this late in in the engine life (weather its way overdue or just nearly there either one)( and just to be clear I have no idea how often the PO changed the tranny fluid if at all.) Will cause the tranny to go out shortly after. I've heard and read so many contradictions on the matter Idk wich is true or not... The guy I bought it from was in the process of slowly fixing things while he had it setting. He says he recently went thru the power steering pump in an effort to fix the steering issue. That's the original reason he parked it. If your right, witch I'm not doubting you, he may be kinda miffed to know he parked it over air in the power steering pump...but it ( the power steering pump) has what looks like brand new tranny fluid in it. Its light strawberry colored. On front differential will I need new seals or anything?. And I apologise that was a typo I didn't intend to put dead pan the gas, I meant seafoam the gas. Had planned on fuel filter already because I'm nearly certain that the one it has is original. I'm no expert tho. I have heard that copper core plugs provide the best performance, and that the only real benefit of the platinum or irridum is that they last longer, but in turn are less conductive. This what I've read a couple places. What's your opinion? I have the owners manual ready to order and be shipped to me. Just curious but which vehicle manual brand do you find to be the most informative and detailed? Yeah I was Leary about trusting the 12% because it looks like it could just be reset with a button. So it's accuracy was questionable due to it may have been reset since the oil was actually changed last. Regardless I can see it is defiantly old enough to deserve a change. Is Mobil 1 any better than Valvoline? I was recommended to get the Valvoline 150000 high mileage bottle. Do you disagree? I have not checked the tie rod ends or the ball joints but it's on the list now. And I am uncertain where the sway bar end links are or even how to tell if they are missing but I'll do that as well. I'm sure I can find a picture or an instructional video on YouTube. That's how I've been teaching myself all of these things. I don't really have an abundance of experience. I'm pulling her together tho. Thanks for all your advice and help. It's helped quite a bit. Not to mention saved me a hell of a headache trying to swap the rack, then figure out why it didn't fix the issue. I'll let you know anything else I might wonder or want to ask. Thanks a million

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Transfer case takes Motorcraft XL-12 transfer case fluid.

I had sort of a similar problem with my Ex which sat for two years with the steering pumped out the PS fluid reservoir and the fluid was dark grey. Refilled, short drive with a few lock to lock figure 8s in a local parking lot and repeated like four times. Steering got pretty smooth after that.

By the way, my gas was nearly empty and the oil was due to be changed when parked. I just put 5 gal of 93 in it and ran with it. I even got the battery to take a charge.

Right. Thanks guys saved me alot of time and work. To think that's the whole reason that guy put it up and then sold it. He tried to fix power steering, couldn't, and gave up. It has 240000 or more miles but I only payed 400$ was a steal if you ask me

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

The steering wheel could be the steering shaft U joint binding up.

Also, how does it shift between first and second gear? Normal or delayed?

It shifts fairly quickly, how delayed would you be meaning? And what could that tell me?

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Battery = Group size 65 any brand you like, In my area, NAPA has the best price @ $90

Power steering - There is air in the system. This happens when the wheels are turned with the engine off. Drive the vehicle in a parking lot while turning the steering wheel from lock-to-lock while doing slow figure eights. Common issue.

Brake fluid fluid flush - Be careful to not let the fluid reservoir run dry, because that will introduce air into the ABS pump, which usually requires special equipment to get out. Also check the brake line running the width of the rear axle. It is known for rusting out and leaking.

I would not add Lucas (or any other additives) to the oil or trans. You don't need it.

Larger tires - Only issue (other than messing with your speedometer) is that you must make sure they don't rub on anything.

Transmission - Check the color of the fluid. If bright pink, leave it alone. If brown do a pan drop, filter change and refill. If black, you can drain the torque converter also. If full drain refill with Mercon V ATF (current Ford spec).

Power steering fluid should probably be flushed (and the brake fluid too). Refill the power steering with Mercon V.

Diffs - Front diff was to be removed to drain it (or you can suck it out with a transfer pump. Use recommended gear oil in both (front is different spec than rear).

I don't know what "dead pan the gas" means. If it's only sat for 6 months, the gas is probably still okay. Do replace the fuel filter though.

For spark plugs and wires, I'd recommend you use Motorcraft double platinum plugs (or Autolite's) and Motorcraft brand plug wires. Hopefully the PO replaced the spark plugs fairly recently, because living in the rust-belt they can be very hard to get out and even snap off in the heads.

If you don't have an owner's manual you can probably download one.

IDK how the oil monitor works (I suspect it's just a clock), but I ignore it as after changing my oil last fall and not using my EB until a few weeks ago the monitor told me I had 12% oil life left on Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 15,000 mile/12 month Extended Performance oil. My vehicles seldom do more than 5000-8000 miles a year, so I use EP oil and change it every fall, otherwise I'd be doing oil changes every week and trying to keep track of 6 vehicles.

Tip: Check your ball joints and tie rod ends for wear. If you front sway bar end-links are still there (they tend to break and fall off) replace them, because the bushings are probably shot.

Also, about the spark plugs. .they are pretty rusted in there. I'd wager they are original. What would be a good way to treat them before hand to make taking them off a little easier. Wd40...pb blaster ect...?

 

[koda2000]

IMO additives like Seafoam and Lucas are "snake oil" and totally unnecessary. If oil & fuel needed that stuff in it, don't you think oil manufacturers would put additional chemicals in their products and charge a premium for it? If you want to throw something in the fuel tank that does something, get yourself a bottle of Chevron Techron complete fuel system cleaner. It's been scientifically proven to clean intake valves and fuel injectors. All the other stuff on the market is pretty much marketing hype and myth.

I personally like Mobil 1, but any high quality oil is fine. There are many opinions on which oil is best, but they're just that, opinions.

If the PO had the steering pump off, it is highly likely your problem is merely air in the system and it won't cost you a cent to drive around in some figure eights to find out. Changing the P/S rack on a 4x4 is a nightmare. It seems like a minor thing (having air in the system) but the effect can be very violent and scary.

The Ford 5.0L V8 is a very reliable power plant. That said, at 240,000 you're getting up there and not knowing what regular maintenance was/wasn't performed I would proceed slowly on spending money on the truck until you've lived with it a while.

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Yeah, absolutely no harm to swap PS fluid. Pump 2-3 quarts thru the return line while the ignition is disconnected, front jacked up and someone turns the wheel up and back. Make sure the tank stays full while they move the wheel back and forth.

Geometric binding like he describes sounds like a ball joint or shaft U joint. Can't hurt to spray down the U joints on the steering shaft.

So if I try the figure 8s and it doesn't work then it could possibly be that the steering shaft needs lubricated?

 

[koda2000]

Re rusted spark plugs - Mix some acetone and ATF fluid and spray it on the plugs several times over a couple of days. Works better than most penetrants (WD40 does not work well at all for a penetrant).

To access the plugs, jack up the front end and place the truck on safety stands, remove the front tires and the inner fender splash shields. This will give you a straight shot at all the spark plugs. I like to use an impact wrench to remove spark plugs. I think there's less chance of snapping them off that way. Snapping off a spark plug in the head can ruin your whole day.

Living in IL, rust will be a formidable enemy. This is exacerbated by the now common 100,000 spark plug change intervals.

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

IMO additives like Seafoam and Lucas are "snake oil" and totally unnecessary. If oil & fuel needed that stuff in it, don't you think oil manufacturers would put additional chemicals in their products and charge a premium for it? If you want to throw something in the fuel tank that does something, get yourself a bottle of Chevron Techron complete fuel system cleaner. It's been scientifically proven to clean intake valves and fuel injectors. All the other stuff on the market is pretty much marketing hype and myth.

I personally like Mobil 1, but any high quality oil is fine. There are many opinions on which oil is best, but they're just that, opinions.

If the PO had the steering pump off, it is highly likely your problem is merely air in the system and it won't cost you a cent to drive around in some figure eights to find out. Changing the P/S rack on a 4x4 is a nightmare. It seems like a minor thing (having air in the system) but the effect can be very violent and scary.

The Ford 5.0L V8 is a very reliable power plant. That said, at 240,000 you're getting up there and not knowing what regular maintenance was/wasn't performed I would proceed slowly on spending money on the truck until you've lived with it a while.

IMO additives like Seafoam and Lucas are "snake oil" and totally unnecessary. If oil & fuel needed that stuff in it, don't you think oil manufacturers would put additional chemicals in their products and charge a premium for it? If you want to throw something in the fuel tank that does something, get yourself a bottle of Chevron Techron complete fuel system cleaner. It's been scientifically proven to clean intake valves and fuel injectors. All the other stuff on the market is pretty much marketing hype and myth.

I personally like Mobil 1, but any high quality oil is fine. There are many opinions on which oil is best, but they're just that, opinions.

If the PO had the steering pump off, it is highly likely your problem is merely air in the system and it won't cost you a cent to drive around in some figure eights to find out. Changing the P/S rack on a 4x4 is a nightmare. It seems like a minor thing (having air in the system) but the effect can be very violent and scary.

The Ford 5.0L V8 is a very reliable power plant. That said, at 240,000 you're getting up there and not knowing what regular maintenance was/wasn't performed I would proceed slowly on spending money on the truck until you've lived with it a while.

Alright I'll look into that chevron techron. And I see what you mean it being an option . I only use Valvoline because it was the preference of my grandfather. I'm seriously hoping it's just air in the lines. That would be awesome. And yeah I was dreading swaping that rack....not to mention the other explorer I have for parts has no wheels and is sitting on the ground. And yeah I know it's kinda risky to be pouring money into. I'm hoping for hope it will last me a while. The po had it for a year and a half.. my neighbor was friends with the owner before that...says he is a skilled mechanic and took great care of it...so I'm hoping he took well enough care of it

 

[97 v8 5.0 awd Rb_Layne]

Re rusted spark plugs - Mix some acetone and ATF fluid and spray it on the plugs several times over a couple of days. Works better than most penetrants (WD40 does not work well at all for a penetrant).

To access the plugs, jack up the front end, remove the front tires and the inner fender splash shields. This will give you a straight shot at all the spark plugs. I like to use an impact wrench to remove spark plugs. I think there's less chance of snapping them off that way. Snapping off a spark plug in the head can ruin your whole day.

Thanks I'll try that out I hope they don't give me to much trouble...yeah that would defiantly ruin my day with a quickness

 

[96eb96]

It shifts fairly quickly, how delayed would you be meaning? And what could that tell me?

Those older 4r70ws have an issue with the 1-2 accumulator. If it shifts consistently and fast it may have been addressed and repaired. The other issue (like koda said) is to have fresh mercon V. Otherwise they can shudder at part throttle. If the fluid is very burnt, it is matter of time anyway till it craps out, and changing fluid may rush things along. If the fluid looks decent you can start with a pan drop and filter, then you can drain the torque converter and refill the trans.

Once those issues are addressed those trans have a very long life, they are the same units that go in the crown vics.

 

[96eb96]

Thanks for the advice, you cleared quite a bit up for me. I had no idea that such a think could be my issue with the power steering pump. I was convinced that it was Probly a gear in the rack that was bent or broke.I wouldn't have had to pay for it, but swaping that rack would have been a pain especially for it to not work. I have a 98 4 door that I have free reign on for any parts I need. It was crashed and rolled a couple times but everything major is salvageable. If there's anything you think I should remove from it just to have on hand let me know. I only have so long to get everything I want from it then it will be junked.
The brake fluid res is between 1/2 and 2/3 way full. No Lucas? For neither engine or tranny? Just curious but why? I have heard it works wonders on a high mileage vehicles. Did you have a bad experience with it? It will be a while before I change the tire size if I even do. I may just lift it a little bit I havnt decided. That's for down the road after its all in decent working order. Transmission fluid is dark but not necessarily black. It doesn't have a burnt smell that I can smell either. If I do end up changing tranny fluid would it be wise to go ahead and change the fluid in the torque converter anyway? What is your opinion on the popular belief that changing the tranny fluid this late in in the engine life (weather its way overdue or just nearly there either one)( and just to be clear I have no idea how often the PO changed the tranny fluid if at all.) Will cause the tranny to go out shortly after. I've heard and read so many contradictions on the matter Idk wich is true or not... The guy I bought it from was in the process of slowly fixing things while he had it setting. He says he recently went thru the power steering pump in an effort to fix the steering issue. That's the original reason he parked it. If your right, witch I'm not doubting you, he may be kinda miffed to know he parked it over air in the power steering pump...but it ( the power steering pump) has what looks like brand new tranny fluid in it. Its light strawberry colored. On front differential will I need new seals or anything?. And I apologise that was a typo I didn't intend to put dead pan the gas, I meant seafoam the gas. Had planned on fuel filter already because I'm nearly certain that the one it has is original. I'm no expert tho. I have heard that copper core plugs provide the best performance, and that the only real benefit of the platinum or irridum is that they last longer, but in turn are less conductive. This what I've read a couple places. What's your opinion? I have the owners manual ready to order and be shipped to me. Just curious but which vehicle manual brand do you find to be the most informative and detailed? Yeah I was Leary about trusting the 12% because it looks like it could just be reset with a button. So it's accuracy was questionable due to it may have been reset since the oil was actually changed last. Regardless I can see it is defiantly old enough to deserve a change. Is Mobil 1 any better than Valvoline? I was recommended to get the Valvoline 150000 high mileage bottle. Do you disagree? I have not checked the tie rod ends or the ball joints but it's on the list now. And I am uncertain where the sway bar end links are or even how to tell if they are missing but I'll do that as well. I'm sure I can find a picture or an instructional video on YouTube. That's how I've been teaching myself all of these things. I don't really have an abundance of experience. I'm pulling her together tho. Thanks for all your advice and help. It's helped quite a bit. Not to mention saved me a hell of a headache trying to swap the rack, then figure out why it didn't fix the issue. I'll let you know anything else I might wonder or want to ask. Thanks a million

The trans in your truck generally wont die from a fluid change unless there is another problem. The theory being that old fluid has clutch material in it, and when you remove it the trans stops working. The fluid will have to be pretty black and lots of residue. I knew a shop that would drop the pan, and put the fluid in container. Then they would inspect the magnet and the bottom of the pan. If it was a real mess the old fluid went back. In that case they may not make it out the door with new fluid.

These trans don't really need additives. The only issue they have is torque converter shudder. There is an additive called DR tranny shudder fix. If you don't have that issue then Mercon V is all you need. It is expensive stuff and has plenty of additives.

Copper gives good performance BUT you have to change it every 20K miles. Unless you are racing you probably won't notice the .25HP from the copper plugs. Use only motorcraft ignition parts. They are cheap online.

Go on ebay and get a FORD SERVICE DVD. They vary in price , 10-40 bucks, depending on coverage, but they are the what the techs use at the dealership. You will know more than the Ford man with the uniform if you study it. It paid for itself many times over. It explains many things. Some DVDs also have TSBs, so you can know about any edge case issues.

Go on yt and look up fordtechmakuloco. He has amazing videos about fords, lots to learn there.

Valvoline maxlife is very good stuff.

Check over the front end, ball joints, etc. Very important. Confirm everything else before the rack, you don't want to install a rack and have the problem stick around.

 

[koda2000]

So if I try the figure 8s and it doesn't work then it could possibly be that the steering shaft needs lubricated?

If doing the figure 8's doesn't improve the problem, by all means inspect the steering shaft. If it's bad I'd replace it. I had this happen on the Jeep Wrangler once. I would recognize the feeling, but I don't know how to describe it I kinda feels like something is bent and binding when you turn the wheel.. The steering shaft going bad is not that common, but air in the P/S system is a super common problem. It makes the steering feel notchy and it shakes the wheel in your hands when you corner. As I said earlier it can feel quite violent. My theory is that air is sucked in through the rack seals when the wheels are turned with the engine off. I've experienced this 3 times and doing the figure 8's has remedied the problem every time. You will have to do 5-6 figure 8's to force the air out. I recall one poster that tried all kinds of things to fix his problem. Later I believe he tracked his issue down to not having used Mercon V in the P/S system (as Ford recommends). He flushed his system with Mercon V and his problem went away. IDK what he had put in there originally.

 

[koda2000]

I had another thought. Be sure to check you rear leaf spring shackles. They tend to rust to the point of collapse in the rust belt.