cliffmathison
New Member
- Joined
- April 14, 2022
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Renton
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2009 STA
I want to thanks all those contributors, who's insight allowed me to DIY repair a busted harness wire on my 2009 4.6L Sport Trac Adrenaline.
I went to a local Jo-Ann fabric store, bought T-Pins and seam ripper (excellent for removing harness tape) checking the fuse blade thickness vs T-Pins, the T-pins need to be ground down to 0.030" to limit fuse box/fuse holder being overly deformed by inserting the T-Pin (did it on a belt sander, two sides corresponding to T-pin head).
I had the KAM code and EVAP codes, but a previous contributor pointed out that on the 2007-2010 vintage they are both related to PCM voltage. Checking PCM harness end KAM pin location by back probing with T-Pin, I had no voltage. Pulling the PCM KAM fuse and checking harness continuity from fuse box to KAM pin location failed continuity check.
Bought the Harbor Freight Cable Tracker, clipped the red lead to fuse box T-pin, in tone mode, started to trace harness, but soon found it "lacking" in sensitivity. Then I stumbled on a diagram and a You-Tube video where the Tone box is attached in series from the "positive" side of the battery. After clipping black lead to +12V batt post, and red lead to T-Pin inserted in PCM side of fuse box position, the cable tracker tone was much more pronounced and resulted in me finding the wire break in the bundle beneath the Airbox on top of the passenger side inner fender.
Some bundle separation is required (which requires re-taping upon post repair) the wire "appeared intact" but "had a small green spot" on the insulation, which easily separated when further stressed. A heat shrink butt connector was installed and OBDII code check showed all systems go! Keep the Cable Tracker Tip perpendicular to wire run (as best you can)
Thanks to all who provided wiring PDF's, PIN position information and Fuse position information. I always find electrical issues daunting to tackle, but am extremely pleased to have my STA back running trouble-free!
At 117K Mi, I'm hoping to run off another +100K.
Maintenance so far;
-both front wheel bearings (Timken via Amazon)
-on my third Battery (2nd Walmart EverStartMax, +6yrs on the last one)
-Dorman OEM Fix driveline ( via Amazon) as the carrier bearing was shot, and the OEM U-joints are "peened in"
-All fluids changed Motocraft LV fluid in 6R80 trans and transfercase, bought 3-5qt jugs and a pump, added copper tube "j-bent) to pump into trans on passenger side access
-All new Motocraft Platinum plugs (at 117K the passenger rear had 0.063" gap)
- third set of tires, currently are Michelin LTX, and at +60K still looking almost new!
-Wix air filter and Oil filter, Mobil-1 5w-30 per "change oil filter prompt)
I went to a local Jo-Ann fabric store, bought T-Pins and seam ripper (excellent for removing harness tape) checking the fuse blade thickness vs T-Pins, the T-pins need to be ground down to 0.030" to limit fuse box/fuse holder being overly deformed by inserting the T-Pin (did it on a belt sander, two sides corresponding to T-pin head).
I had the KAM code and EVAP codes, but a previous contributor pointed out that on the 2007-2010 vintage they are both related to PCM voltage. Checking PCM harness end KAM pin location by back probing with T-Pin, I had no voltage. Pulling the PCM KAM fuse and checking harness continuity from fuse box to KAM pin location failed continuity check.
Bought the Harbor Freight Cable Tracker, clipped the red lead to fuse box T-pin, in tone mode, started to trace harness, but soon found it "lacking" in sensitivity. Then I stumbled on a diagram and a You-Tube video where the Tone box is attached in series from the "positive" side of the battery. After clipping black lead to +12V batt post, and red lead to T-Pin inserted in PCM side of fuse box position, the cable tracker tone was much more pronounced and resulted in me finding the wire break in the bundle beneath the Airbox on top of the passenger side inner fender.
Some bundle separation is required (which requires re-taping upon post repair) the wire "appeared intact" but "had a small green spot" on the insulation, which easily separated when further stressed. A heat shrink butt connector was installed and OBDII code check showed all systems go! Keep the Cable Tracker Tip perpendicular to wire run (as best you can)
Thanks to all who provided wiring PDF's, PIN position information and Fuse position information. I always find electrical issues daunting to tackle, but am extremely pleased to have my STA back running trouble-free!
At 117K Mi, I'm hoping to run off another +100K.
Maintenance so far;
-both front wheel bearings (Timken via Amazon)
-on my third Battery (2nd Walmart EverStartMax, +6yrs on the last one)
-Dorman OEM Fix driveline ( via Amazon) as the carrier bearing was shot, and the OEM U-joints are "peened in"
-All fluids changed Motocraft LV fluid in 6R80 trans and transfercase, bought 3-5qt jugs and a pump, added copper tube "j-bent) to pump into trans on passenger side access
-All new Motocraft Platinum plugs (at 117K the passenger rear had 0.063" gap)
- third set of tires, currently are Michelin LTX, and at +60K still looking almost new!
-Wix air filter and Oil filter, Mobil-1 5w-30 per "change oil filter prompt)
