Key Off Draw - need electrical expert help

[NWExplorer97]

I've gone through dozens of posts, so I'm finally putting it out to all for help.
97 Explorer XLT, 4.0L OHV, Auto, 4x4 in very good condition.

Recently started noticing battery issues, finally brand new battery went dead with no use in 2 days.
I checked alternator (1 year old with overdrive pulley) it's good at 13.65volts.
So then I checked for a key off draw, found it to be 3.97 Amps, obviously way to high.
Put Fluke Amp Guage between + post & cable clamp to measure. I let everything time out for about 1 hour. Then removed every fuse (interior & exterior) OEM & from all added accessories with no change. Then every relay in distribution block under hood and above gas pedal with no change. Then disconnected PCM, Alternator, Starter Relay, Coil Pack, etc. under hood with no change. I've disconnected glove box light, radios (3), off road lights, etc.
Also I can't see anything on or hear anything running like a pump or motor.

What else could it be? Any Ford Tech's that have seen this before?

I'm a retired 20 year ASE & Chrysler Certified Tech, I'm much more experienced with Chrysler electrical engineering. It's much simpler back in the 90's they used less relays and didn't share so many circuits.
I also volunteer with the local sheriff search & rescue 4x4 unit.
I have done TT, AAL-F150 rear springs, 1.5" spacers, 31" DuraTrac's, with these mod's it performs as well as any others on the forest roads, no hard off road wheeling. I like the Explorer and would choose it over a Jeep for various reasons. But I have to be able to depend on it in the worst conditions.

 

[Dave 1955]

Man it seems you did everything to find the culprit.
4 amps is like 48 watts...something sure is drawing power.
I'm not sure if the 97 uses a GEM for ground switching..if it does maybe the problem..but like you said you should hear or see something with that amperage.
Years ago I had a prob like that and I ended up doing a work around.
I used a constant duty ford type solenoid between the battery and the positive cable..kind of a pain but it worked.
Good luck!

 

[Albino 94LTD]

You're still drawing 3.97amps with all those thing disconnected?

What condition is your negative cable in? If there's an corrosion or hard spot at the clamp or along the cable, that's not good. Not saying that's the culprit but it would need to be addressed.

(watching thread for others input)

 

[2000StreetRod]

relay module?

I don't have a wiring diagram for your vehicle but I suggest pulling the fuses for the relay module to start your isolation process. For model year 2000 power for the Accessory Delay Relay is fuse 4 in the Battery Junction Box and power for the Battery Saver Relay is fuse 26 in the Central Junction Box. If that doesn't eliminate your current drain then try disabling the power to the Electric Shift Control Module (for 2000 fuse 6 in the Battery Junction Box).

 

[NWExplorer97]

Still Drawing

Thanks for the replies
I have removed all the interior and exterior fuses and relays I can find in distribution "blocks", 1 at a time & at least twice each. So unless there's an additional single or smaller group hiding somewhere, I believe I have checked them all. As I mentioned I have also disconnected all other accessories; OEM (as able or suspected) and aftermarket. Due to the 100 watt Ham radio for search & rescue and lights, etc. I had already doubled the battery ground to the body and added 3 additional ground straps to engine, frame, etc. All the added accessories are connected directly to the battery with Bosch style relays triggered with grounds from switchs. I still have the draw with every thing back to stock. I wish I had a good wiring diagram that shows what could possibly be the draw without going through a fuse or relay. A local suggested the OEM alarm system and components like drivers door keypad. Both work properly and the key pad light is not staying on. I would expect these would be powered throught a hot all the time fuse, but maybe not? It's getting tough without a diagram or advise from someone who has experienced this.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

How about testing in reverse of what you've done so far?

Pull everything then put fuses, relays back in, one at a time. This would determine if it's a cumulative draw instead of a single circuit.

 

[BobWiersema]

You removed each fuse one at a time? Some things pull power from multiple sources. Remove every fuse and every relay then see what it draws. Then start replacing one at a time.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

There's another relay box location under the air box. Did you check that one?

 

[jprentice94]

When it was running what was the power at the battery i think it should be lile 14.6 aftermarket stereo?

 

[NWExplorer97]

Thanks for the response,
I'll try the reverse order and look for relays in air box area.
I wish I could get 14.6 volts at the battery while idling.
It stays closer to 13.65 - 13.85, that's with new 850 amp cc battery
and smaller - overdrive pulley.

 

[tenny]

I have found that 90 percent of battery draws is from the alarm.

OEM or aftermarket.

and if you really did pull ALL the fuses and relays with NO change....
these ford fuse boxes have been know to short internally, causing draw.

 

[Dave 1955]

I have found that 90 percent of battery draws is from the alarm.

OEM or aftermarket.

and if you really did pull ALL the fuses and relays with NO change....
these ford fuse boxes have been know to short internally, causing draw.

x2