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Keyless Entry Install (Door Lock/Unlock Wire Location)

also. can anyone out there get me a picture of the correct wires, or a way to test the wires to be 100% sure that I'm cutting the proper wires?

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If I remember right, I just tapped into one of the constants coming from the ignition switch.
If you're installing a system with remote start, you'll have to tap that anyway.

I don't think you'll find but one set of those wires with the proper colors down there in that area.
Straining my brain here again, but I think if you hit one of those wires with a positive charge, it will lock, and it you hit the other, it will unlock.
Reviewing the diagram, I'm pretty sure of that.

If you wire it like it shows, your buttons will still work like original and the remote will work too.

Holler if you need anything else. :)


this is from
and shows how to wire an alarm into a 5 wire lock system. notice how the pink & green wires are cut and hooked up to contacts "87a & 30" those contacts are closed allowing the wire to remain "rest at ground". when the alarm triggers the relay, then it switches to contacts "87 & 30" are closed sending 12 volts to the actuator. this is what breaks the "rest at ground" and allows it to lock or unlock without causing a dead short. this is why i said you need 4 wires so you can send and return from the alarm. i ran mine from the left side because there is a master switch and a slave switch on the door locks. the master switch (mine is on the left door but that is not always the case) is what brings the wires to "rest at ground" when nothing is happening. i know it is confuzzling. i goofffffed around on mine for days thinking how to do it and even after seeing this diagram, i was still confuzzled. trace the wires closely and you'll be able to finger it out.
also, my alarm directions said it has relays built into it but it would not operate the locks without blowing a fuse after about 4 tries. i wired in the relays exactly as shown here and used the alarm to operate these relays. keep in mind, not all relays are the same. make sure you have the "87a" connector on it (87a & 30 are a closed circuit when the relay coil is at rest with 87 & 30 being closed with coil operating this makes connector 87a the common connector).
to confirm you have the correct wire before cutting it, shave back some insulation and ground your test light on a cofirmed ground source then touch the test probe on the wire and hit the door lock or unlock and your test light should come on only when you push the switch in question.
as for a constant 12 volt source, i ran 2 new lines from the battery fused at 20 amps. 1 for the alarm and 1 for the new door lock relays. having it seperate means that if the door lock relays blow a fuse you still have a funtioning alarm.

keep smilin...........we are almost there.......we ARE having fun!!!!!!!

ok... I was denied by my local autozone. they told me he didn't know what I was talking about and without a specific part number or keyword to search on the computer he wouldn't be able to find it... any ideas?

Edit: I was able to get the relays from Murray's (who put more effort into finding the parts for me than Autozone... Go figure).

For future reference, the Murray's part number is: RL33181, and at a pricey 15.99 a piece (ouch!)

Anyway, I'm going to go back and attempt to finish this tonight. Wish me luck!!!

ok, update time! ha!

I found the right wires. I never even saw the big bundle of wires right on the floor underneath where I took the kick panel off that housed those wires. It was camoflaged with black tape and a black mesh wire-loom.

Anyway, when I lock or unlock I can get power to the right corresponding wires via a multimetere, so I know I have the right ones.

But here's my new situation. I can't figure out how to hook the wires from the relay into them. I've tried it several different ways, and I keep blowing the 12v constant fuse for my keyless system.


Can someone verify by this image which part of the wire goes to the switch and which part goes to the motor?


when you snip the wire put a test light or meter on the upper wire as you have shown. touch the button and it should show 12volts. then apply 12volts to the other wire and it will operate the actuator/motor. make sure the switch side is the wire hooked up to the "87a" connector on the relay and the other that runs to the motor/actuator on the "30" as shown in the relay diagram i posted above. that is important.
good work. you'll soon be able to look back at this and see it as being easy.

keep smilin................Thomas

Got it! Finally works! I just you're help was right on. I somehow had the wires switched and once I thought about it, you were right.

Good to be done, I just wish the relays wouldn't have set me back 30 bucks!

Thanks to everyone for all of your help. Hopefully this thread will help others in the future as well.

And for everyone who was wondering the door unlock/lock wires are located ON THE FLOORBOARD of the car, right near the gray plastic moulding underneath where you take off of the kick panel. They are not up with the wiring harnesses.


i used RadioShack (The Source here in Canada) relays and they cost me close to $30 for the pair.

keep smilin............t

Can any of you guys tell me, if my aftermarket alarm does not work...will that affect my factory power locks? My current problem is: (1)Remote turns alarm on, but does door locks do nothing.(2) My master switch does not work. (3) the passenger side unlock only works.(3) I have checked the master and passenger side switches and they are both getting power...I also took them apart and cleaned them. (4) I checked wires in boot between door and door jam for splits and appear that there is none.(5) I checked wires under the floor board for split or correction and all looked good. I'm running out of ideas and need major help. I also dont understand the whole reverse polarity and/or how to check if I have current in the wires. Please Help!!!! ARRRRRGGGGGG!!!

I need help!

No no not inside the door... They run underneath the plastic trim just to the left of your seat. This would be much easier than trying to splice so close to that connector in your pic. And yes the locks use a negative (-) signal, but the motors are reverse polarity... This just means you'll have to loop the circuit to your keyless entry box. I've done a couple of these so let me know if you need help.

Im trying to hook the wires in but the diagram is confusing, could you pm me a step by step procedure? Do i need to buy a relay from autozone or do you do that yourself somehow?

Can anyone tell me where, and what color do i hook up the keyless lock and unlock in a 1994 ford explorer. Even better if you have a pic of it