Keyless entry (Securicode) pad comes off | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Keyless entry (Securicode) pad comes off

Yes, just happened to my 2017 explorer XLT while driving down the interstate. Mine broke in half and immediately the rear gate light came on and it was locked.

Just curious have you took it to dealer yet? It happened to my 2017 Limited too and I have scheduled an appointment two weeks from today . Not sure if it's going to cover under the extended warranty.
 



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I have same problem. I am a body shop manager and a used car dealership send me a 2017 Ford Explorer with broken driver side keypad and electrical problems with Liftgate. Upper part fall off while customer was driving on freeway. After cleaning and removing old adhesive, we installed OE part. Checked fuse box and one fuse was burn. After replacement of fuse, Liftgate problems solved. Less than 3 months later, same problem. Part broke in half leaving the retainers and guides in car/holes. I will check tomorrow to see if there is any recalls on this. Customer is screaming saying that body shop did not installed right. I show customer all broken parts still in vehicle. We have replace many key pads. this is insane..
 


















Just picked up a 2017 Ford Explorer XLT that has the front driver door pillar with the keypad that is coming off at the top. Not really sure the best way to re-attach.

Thinking the best way is to remove and add new adhesive? Looks like there may be some rubber clip at the top and bottom.

IMG_8122.jpg
 






^^Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Your thread was merged with this one on much the same issue.
This is something that does happen. Usually it blows off while driving which then in many cases leads to issues with the liftgate. You could try an adhesive. Do the clips look like they are intact? Is it just loose on the one side? If so, it might be better to not remove the entire pad but then I haven't had any experience with repairing this. There may be answers somewhere in this thread. If you bought it from a dealer did they give you any sort of warranty on the vehicle? Chances are the 3year, 36K mile warranty is no longer in effect.

Peter
 






While on the highway the keypad panel fell out and was dangling by the connector. Luckily my wife had some 3M tape and stuck it back in to keep it in place. I asked the dealer and they said it was a $500 job because the part is expensive and the labor to install. They said the inside of the door has to be taken apart in order to attach it. I asked if it could be glued back in and they said there isnt a glue out there that bonds metal to plastic.
It works fine, i'd hate to pay $500 just because some bracket that holds it in place broke.
Thoughts / ideas ?
 






The Securicode pad is held in place by double-sided tape. If it works, why not just stick it back on? https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-applique-db5z7820555ac?
Also found this might you may not be able to remove it again. :dunno:
This may help if you plan to replace it. 2011 explorer keyless entry pillar

Peter
 
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Wow was just looking for information on replacing the keypad, as mine has been acting a little flaky lately - one of the buttons not working consistently, and it not taking the combination sometimes. I rent my explorer out with Turo and give the combination to customers to get into the vehicle, so gotta have it! Based on some of the posts here, I went and looked and mine still seems to be affixed securely, but the passenger side was actually starting to come off! Will get some 3m tape and secure that guy before it flies off, and will likely go ahead and order the replacement b-pillar soon.
 






Wow was just looking for information on replacing the keypad, as mine has been acting a little flaky lately - one of the buttons not working consistently, and it not taking the combination sometimes. I rent my explorer out with Turo and give the combination to customers to get into the vehicle, so gotta have it! Based on some of the posts here, I went and looked and mine still seems to be affixed securely, but the passenger side was actually starting to come off! Will get some 3m tape and secure that guy before it flies off, and will likely go ahead and order the replacement b-pillar soon.
Experienced this. My 2017 Explorer driver’s side key code panel was popping off. I took off as much of the old double sided tape as I could reach and replaced with new. Did not hold. Old tape needs to be completely removed and door frame thoroughly cleaned before applying new tape. In my case besides the old tape, the panel’s body clips were obstructing a proper refit so I had to order a new panel. Bought the part from a Ford parts dealer for less $ than my local shop. Looked easy for me to fit back in place...but wait...the electric cords need to reach well inside the door to plug into the locking circuit. The door had to be taken apart for complete installation. So I admit paying the local dealer to do that. End result was a new key pad with same codes as originally programmed.
 






Well I ended up replacing my keypad b-pillar yesterday. My issue wasn't necessarily that it was coming lose, though it was a bit, but just that the keypad was being rather glitchy, some keys not working, not working consistently, etc. That was not the easiest chore I've ever done, that's for sure. I watched a few videos and read a few posts on disassembling the door but I seemed to have a much ahrder go of it than many described... I'd say it took me an hour or so just to get the door panel off, even then I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the door latch entirely so I couldn't pull the whole thing away but enough I could get access inside the door. once I got in there, had a hard time figuring out where the wiring for the keypad ran, and even once I found it getting it disconnected from the plug and loose from the door was probably another hour or so. There was a clip holding it to the door that I had to move a grommet to get to and even then it took some fenagling. Getting rid of the remnants of the old double-sided take took some goof off and quite a bit of rubbing.
Once I got the old one out the installation wasn't too bad, though I did notice one of the black aligning posts broke off in shipping, and the other broke off as I was just trying to maneuver it into place... but was able to get it close enough and connected and double sided tape hopefully affixed securely and the door put back together. Total time was probably about 3 hours.

Interestingly, the passenger side b-pillar was barely hanging on... I'd estimate about 2/3-3/4 of the tape was no longer affixed and one of the two clips holding it in place was broken... only took a light tug and it was completely off. because I didn't have to open the door for that side, that was only about a 10-15 minute job, most of which was removing the double-sided tape remnants from the last unit. Installation of that side was a breeze.

I ordered the parts from Fairway Ford, and it was about $225 for both the drivers and passenger side. My local dealer wanted about $275 just for the drivers panel so I guess we'll call it a win. Not sure what dealer would've charged for labor.
 






My security panel on the driver door also flew off while I was on the highway. It caused the rear gate to lock. My explorer is a 2017 Explorer XLT. Seems like Ford would correct this issue from happening on the newer models. Pieces shouldn't be flying off!
I've had both driver and passenger side molding fly off replaced the drivers side twice now, need to replace again and this time the security panel flew off and now my rear gate won't open as well. I have a 2017 Explorer XLT. This all happened when I was on the freeway.
 






Yes, just happened to my 2017 explorer XLT while driving down the interstate. Mine broke in half and immediately the rear gate light came on and it was locked.
Same thing happened to me and now my rear gate light came on and wont open!!!
 






............................................................ and now my rear gate won't open as well........................................
That is due to the damage to the pad's wiring. Very common problem with this type of separation.

Peter
 






I have a 3 month old 2014 ford explorer and while drive down the freeway i look out the rear view and the keyless entry panel is swinging in the breeze, banging on the side. I tried to snap it back in and put a crack in it. Eventually had to duct tape it. I did notice those panels do not seem very secure. Anyone else have this issue???????????
Thanks Jim
Same problem what is the fix and cost? Let me know.
 






Same problem what is the fix and cost? Let me know.
Welcome to the Forum Steven. :wave:
The member you quoted was last seen here on October 12, 2019. If yours is cracked it will have to be replaced.
BTW, if yours came off while driving, have you checked to see if your liftgate is operating normally? Sometimes the wires get damaged and it affects the 'gate' operation.

Peter
 
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I have a 3 month old 2014 ford explorer and while drive down the freeway i look out the rear view and the keyless entry panel is swinging in the breeze, banging on the side. I tried to snap it back in and put a crack in it. Eventually had to duct tape it. I did notice those panels do not seem very secure. Anyone else have this issue???????????
Thanks Jim
Yes. My 2015 keyless entry has exact same issue - search for answers brought me here
 






If the plastic panel just came loose. I would use 3m tape to reattach itto the door.
 






Yes. My 2015 keyless entry has exact same issue - search for answers brought me here
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Just make sure that you aren't getting a Liftgate Open warning light. That has happened to a few members when the pad came OFF as they were travelling on the highway. It cause an issue with the wiring that resulted in the warning.

Peter
 



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Been lurking for a while but this forum helped me tremendously so I wanted to share my experience since some users don't post the fix.

I was driving on the highway and happen to notice a shadow moving on the dashboard. Turns out the top of the SecuriCode panel was pulling away from the pillar. Just as I thought I have a little time it flew off and was tethered by the wires. Shortly after, I'm talking the time to pull over from the center lane of a highway, I got a message that the liftgate was ajar. Get over to the side of the road and the insulation on all the wires was damaged. Go to the rear hatch to get some tape... nope, won't open. Didn't have tape anyway. Since there is no way to remove the SecuriCode panel, drove the remaining 20 mins holding the trim on with my hand out the window. Searched here and found this was common so called the dealer and made the earliest appointment they had, 3 weeks later. I have a good extended warranty so figured for $100 the panel would get replaced and I wouldn't have to bother pulling off the door panel and fixing the wires. Found fuse 10 was blown and did the flip around trick to be able to get into the hatch. Learned that day that there is a three bladed fuse, never knew. Taped the SecuriCode panel in place making sure the bare wire wasn't touching. SecuriCode and liftgate worked fine.

Drop the 2017 Explorer off and get a call that the component is considered "trim" and isn't covered under my warranty with Allstate. I ask how much would the repair be out of warranty. The service advisor says $980! I of course say for a part that's held on with tape, complain that it's not trim if Ford considers it a module and give the whole that's absolutely ridiculous rant. Within 2 seconds she says they can help me out and do it for $780. I still say that's insane. We talk a little bit and she says I can call Ford customer service and see if there is anything they can do, but remember there is a $189 diagnostic charge if I don't do the repair. This is the diagnostic charge for the problem I diagnosed, but that's besides the point.

Long story short, Ford reduced the price and gave me 24 hours to accept their proposal. For anyone in a similar situation I would recommend calling to see if the SecuriCode is considered "trim" and check with your extended warranty to see if it's covered before bringing it in. Had I know it wouldn't have been covered I would have fixed it myself. I ignorantly thought that for my $100 deductible that I would get a new panel and wiring harness and not have to pop the door panel off myself. If you do get bent over a barrel call Ford and they might help offset the cost.
 






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