Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

[Kirby N.]

I just looked at nwf. They don’t offer anything for the 1354. You can get an atlas with 4 to 1 for a RBV. You shouldn’t need anything more that that, right? You just want more options Brian?

 

[gmanpaint]

I thought nwf has a 5 to 6 bolt adapter. Well, they did last I looked, but that was some time ago.

 

[Kirby N.]

It would be rad if one of thier boxes would fit between my 1354 and m5od. I would be all over that for my ranger.

 

[BKennedy]

I meant if I was to install the Atlas II again in my Explorer, I would add the Black Box-i just because its a doubler, and it would add 4" to the front drive shaft, making it much easier to clearance. With the 700R4 trans, it really shortens up the drivetrain and with all the flex in my front axle, I had to clearance the heck out of the joints in the front shaft.

 

[gmanpaint]

@Theoffroadexplorer just listed a newish Behemoth with 1354 manual, and cable shifters for sale on FB marketplace.

 

[Kirby N.]

I think the guy might have bought that one @gmanpaint. He texted me and said he got a line on one.

I made a long drive today. It was a gamble, but I found a set of ranger seats 5 hours away for a good deal. Off of a 2003. Figured I wanted to do a drive on my day off and see some fall colors anyway. So the wife and I loaded up and went for a drive today.

Turned out to be a good score and a fun drive. My 91 seats are getting pretty ragged and I can't wait to have a cupholder!

They are a little dirty, but no hols and really good shape.

Any ideas for cleaning them? Would love to take off the covers and put them in the washing machine!

Also, I think these have some sort of seat belt tensioning system. I am going to have to figure out how to defeat that.

Any resources and knowledge send it my way.

 

[Kirby N.]

I guess it is called a seatbelt pretensioner. I guess there are some problems with later model trucks needing the systems to match up because it can trigger a diagnostic code. Obviously, mine doesn't have that problem. I am just trying to decided if I can get away with running them as is, or if I need to go around them or something. I guess first step is seeing if my seat belts will latch in the female receivers of the seats.

 

[Kirby N.]

I think I am going to remove the covers and try washing them in my washing machine. We will see how that goes.

I think I am lucky these dont have airbags. Looks like some newer models do.

 

[BKennedy]

Those look a lot like the seats in my daughter's 2010 Ranger. Be careful with that center console and don't put any weight on it, hers broke at the swivel when she was pushing her self up on the console, and she weighs about 105 pounds.

 

[410Fortune]

delete the auto tensioners run your old seatbelts if possible
If not then you can leave the tensioners on the seats and just do not hook them up BUT MAKE SURE TO ANCHOR THE SEATBELTS TO THE STOCK LOCATIONS on whatever seats you are working on, even if this means running a small strap from the auto tensioner to the floor

I have put 07 and 08 seats into Rangers and on one truck I bypassed the auto tensioner because the female ends went to the floor brackets and on the other truck I left the auto tensioners in place just not hooked up to anything, If I remember correctly I had to add one anchor from floor to seat to make sure it was safe and used the safe hold down location as the stock belt

Do you know anyone with an upholstery cleaner, like a bissel wet vac? Friggin awesome for cleaning seats.
Otherwise hot soapy water and a soft brush, followed by clean water with a clean towel and then let dry. Stains can be spot treated

Removing the covers can be tricky
Sweeet score good Ranger seats are hard to find
Nice Aspens!!
I have replaced Aspens with Alder, Birch and Tamarac, Tamarac trees are interesting they are an evergreen that turns yellow then brown and sheds all its needles? I had never seen anything like that before moving North

 

[Paul]

Any ideas for cleaning them? Would love to take off the covers and put them in the washing machine! Any resources and knowledge send it my way.

Nice score, agree with the Bissell or similar. I've used a pressure washer with good effect. . ., but may be a bit much with 17 year old seats (and stitching). I'd be hesitant to remove the covers, maybe consult a upholstery shop ? ? ?

Paul

 

[fordpickupman]

Get a bottle of Pure Power. It’s an amazing product. You can get it on Amazon. A shop I used to work at many years ago sold it. It removes about any stain with minimal effort.

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I ended up taking the covers off- which was quite the job and required removing the top halves from the base. Pulling the covers off was a bit of work but not too bad. they are pretty simple. Then I ran them in the washing machine on cold or warm and delicates. Then I let them dry in my house. They turned out really good. Lots of lint after the wash but I took care of it with a roller and the shop vac. These really show the dog hair.

I also used the spray with water in the sink then shop vac the water out for the center console.

The seats were not a direct bolt in.

I started with the driver because I thought it would be harder. Start with the hardest one first, right?

The holes didn't quite line up and I wondered if I should be using the old rails. So I tried to swap them. The old 1991 rails came right off. There is a lot to taking off the 2003 ones. The latch for recline and the latch to slide forward and back is integrated into the rails. So that wasn't an option.

The main thing on the drivers seat is that the front holes were bent too steep. So I flattened those with a couple of big crescent wrenches and 3 out of 4 holes lined up. I think on the third I will do a 1/2" bolt with some big washers. I plugged the unused hole with the bolt that came out.

Then on to the passenger. This is where the real work started.

I flattened the front brackets to meet the holes and then the back brackets were off by 2". Add to that, only 1 front hole aligned. I thought this would be the easy one.

After alot of head scratching, I ended up cutting the front brackets off the old 1991 rails and welding them to the 2003 front brackets.

I was careful covering up the new seats with a welding blanket of course I welded them and painted them.

then all 4 holes matched up. I am really happy with them. Cant wait to use the cup holder!

I did have to use the old seat belt buckles because the 2003 buckles didn't work with the 1991 belts. I might look for some black belts in the junk yard.

Next on the list of maintenance and repair for hunting season: install the new fox shocks.

Cute off the old mounts:"

Then I realized I didn't have any new mounts. Oops! I ordered some and this job goes on the backburner.

Its ok, the rear ARB has had a leak ever since I got it installed. I thought it was either bulkhead fitting or orings on the seal housing. It was weird. It would only leak when cold or stationary.

So I tore it apart. It was none of those. The bulkhead wasn't leaking. No bubbles with soap. The orings I thought might be the culprit, so I removed the seal housing and replaced them. made up a bench tester- still leak.

I think it is the bonded internal seal. I ordered one of those. $23. I hope that fixes it.

 

[410Fortune]

That's how I do the seats too.... cut the ears off the seats that come out, actually lightly bolt them to the truck, set new seat in place get it in the perfect spot and tack weld....... the seat belts are always a pita, just make sure you incorporate the stock seatbelt hold down for safety....
nice work getting the covers off and then back on....it is a big PITA but do able.
You can use RIT dye to color those old seatbelts, another option to consider if you cant find the perfect JY solution.

Why not just ditch the RABS? I hated the RABS on my 88 BII....the rear end would get sideways in any wet conditions way too easy....

 

[Kirby N.]

I like the rabs actually. The rear on the ranger is light- so when I lock it up on slick stuff at speed it actually works really nice. It keeps it straight and slows it down. So I want to keep it. It’s actually part of the reason I stuck with the 8.8.

Thanks for the input on the seats Jaime. Are you saying that you don’t trust the seat belt receiver bolted to the new later seats?

 

[410Fortune]

I do not trust it UNLESS the self retractor is anchored to the same spot the stock belt was. Otherwise you are counting on the 4 seat mounting bolts to hold your seatbelt...and if you look under your ranger there is a cable that goes over a body crossmember that retains the stock seat belt anchor points.....one way or the other you MUST anchor the seat belt to those locations.

Copy about the RABS!!!

 

[Kirby N.]

I think on both seats the receiver mounts to the seat. The middle belt goes to the floor on both seats behind the seats.

We have success! It was the bonded seal that was leaking. I cant find a single thing wrong with it, but its leaking. Kind of nice to know it wasn't my fault installing the locker for once. I rigged up arb bench tester. That was a life saver. Waiting on some parts- but should be able to reassemble tomorrow.

I ordered some ARP bolts for the ring gear. Someone said they are good and I should torque to 80lbs on someones build on here. I cant find it, but for a little piece of mind they will be worth it.

And final thoughts for tonight- I forgot to mention that I found my rattle in the front end.

Head bushings. These bushings in the duff arms are WAY loose. I can see how it happens too- the shock works them sideways. I don't know how to fix it though. They clunk back and forth. I am excited that I found them and stoked to see them fixed and hopefully quiet down the front end. they are between the arm and the cast piece that bolts to the axle.

Head Unit Replacement Bushings Set | James Duff Inc.

Replacement set of Black Urethane Bushings and Sleeves for our Long Travel Radius Arms or T-Rex Arms. Includes 8 hat bushings and 4 sleeves, enough for both arms. Yes, they will fit that other brand…

dufftuff.com

If you are running duff arms for any amount of time, I would suggest checking these bushings. They have been making a racket for a long time and I didn't know what it was.

 

[BKennedy]

When I ordered the Duff radius arms I asked them to leave the shock mounts off. I found out that they make a bunch at one time and do not do them one at a time or special orders. My head unit bushings are still in great shape, but maybe that is because I never ran shocks on the arms.

 

[Kirby N.]

The ARP bolts I ordered won't work. Grr. They have too long of a shoulder. I have everything I need here except that. Darn it.

 

[Kirby N.]

When I ordered the Duff radius arms I asked them to leave the shock mounts off. I found out that they make a bunch at one time and do not do them one at a time or special orders. My head unit bushings are still in great shape, but maybe that is because I never ran shocks on the arms.

I think you are correct. Mine probably have more miles on them than yours since I drive mine everyday. But you are totally right- the shocks on them have to twist them back and forth constantly.