Kyle's 4406 T-Case swap!

[IZwack]

I always thought the gas tank was mounted to the body? Hm.. I guess I'm gonna have to go take a look at that.. Looks like thick metal to deal with?? (from the pictures anyways) I was going to pick up a dremel kit this friday for my cutting and grinding needs.. you think that would be too weak for this tough stuff?

Gas tank is mounted to the chassis.

And dont waste your money on a Dremel - for the same amount of money, get a quality 4.5-inch angle grinder. Just get some eye protection and watch where you point that thing.

 

[storlied]

I'll definitely look into it, thanks for the tip. Finally getting around to getting myself the tools I need.

 

[turboexplorer]

Yeah more than likely. A small cutting wheel/grinder from like makita at lowes or home depot is like fifty thats what I did. The medal is thick yes but I and my Dad stood on it and had a crescent wrench and opened it to barley fit over the medal and just worked our way down little bit at a time with it. Also used a small sledge to bend it

 

[turboexplorer]

Well I had been having some vibration problems and I knew it was the front shaft. If I took it out it was completely gone. So went to my shaft builder that built the front shaft for me and we looked at it. And what I thought was the slip spline had to much play in it you could push the shaft up and down and it would move. So took it off and put it on the balance machine and sure enough it chattered. So off with the old slip spline (2yrs 10,000 miles) and on with a new one. Got re-welded and balanced and will get it back on the truck. Here are some pics of the new shaft. Well half the shaft is new again!

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting. Could you feel the play with the shaft out, in hand? Mine is also a used shaft built from two, with new u-joints. I hope you fixed it.

 

[turboexplorer]

Yes some. If you took the two ends and tried to bend the shaft back and forth if that makes sense it would move. Obviously you could push on it harder with it in the truck though. Now it is wicked tight The weird part about it is it wasn't a used shaft they built it all new so must have been a fluke it wore, mainly because that front shaft barely moves if any its just when the truck is flexed and the frame is twisted a little.

 

[CDW6212R]

I see, and our front shaft runs in a fixed length, so the only stress should be twisting. I'll check mine out closer when I get to the garage later.

 

[blueka]

this is an interesting thread and gives me more to think about for doing mine, thanks!


Si

 

[turboexplorer]

I see, and our front shaft runs in a fixed length, so the only stress should be twisting. I'll check mine out closer when I get to the garage later.

Very true, the only slipping it would really have to do would be when the frame twists. So I put the shaft in today and went for a drive the at 77-80mph it is there not as bad though. At 70-73 which is where I always drive anyways because it gets way better mileage, speedo is not corrected for 31's so really it is doing almost three mph faster than the speedo shows, but at that speed and 65 mph it is WAY smoother. Happy with it since it was free. But when putting it in i wish the shaft was a little longer. If you where to divide the slip spline into fourths it has about 3/4 out and 1/4 in. I would prefer it since it doesn't move to have 1/4 out and 3/4 pushed in the slip. But o well if it will hold off for another 2 yrs or so It will all go away anyways making room for the all popular SAS Wife has approved already and have started saving Almost a grand saved up in cash already.

 

[Trolling]

So, there is still a vibration from the front shaft

I'm battling the same thing with mine. It vibrates and hums even though it is balanced perfectly.

Someone suggested using a double cardan joint. If ever you get to try a double cardan joint on yours, let us (and me ) know how that goes.

 

[turboexplorer]

I will. And it only vibrates now if I'm over 75 which I get way better mileage when I am at 73 so it feels fine there. I thing the 95-97 V8s had a double cardan joints at the T-Case then they went to the CV style shaft because I bet from vibrations. If I try it will let you know or if you do let me know. I tried it with an adapter made for the AWD case and still vibrated but that was with the adapter made. But like CDW6212R said in another thread recently they are prone to vibrating anyways because the angles of the pinion and the T-Case suck bad. Ford defiantly could have designed that better.

 

[97HYPHYexplorer]

I don't know if this has been covered or not. But roughly how much time and $ does this project cost. I have put this on my list of things to do on my HyphyBaby, but from the looks of it, it will be towards the end, behind doing my ought system, TT and add-a-leaf, and something similar to your rockers. I'm pretty new to all this, just recently got my explorer, so i have some big plans. I will gladly accept any and all advice. Thanks

 

[turboexplorer]

Probably in the $600 range. It all depends on how much you find a 4406 for. I Love it and wouldn't trade the 4Lo for anything. Night and day difference for wheelin. Easy on your tranny more power and control to the ground. Well worth the time, its a pretty easy project.

 

[superdutymark]

Well the parts or the start of the parts are all here. I have the T-Case a manual shift BW 4406 T-Case out of a 2002 F-150 with 75K on it is all. I have a rear DS from a 99' Expedition. My friend brought them down from Salt Lake so I can now do this swap this weekend. I'm way stoked about it. Here is the new T-case and Shaft. I am going to put some new U-joints in and get a new rear seal and the fluid I need this week and start taking out the seats and Consol to get it all ready for a quick swap this weekend. The shifter and the front DS are to come I have other plans that are tying up the money for that for now.

View attachment 51266

Few Questions, real quick.
In this pic what are these? This is on the front part of the case. Breather tube? and what connector? Mine has the speedo signal in the rear diff so I don't have to worry about any connections right? There is two connectors in the back to. Don't think that I have to do anything with them but thought that I would ask just to make sure.

View attachment 51267

This is the back

View attachment 51268

Thanks guys!

I’m wanting to do the same swap to my 2001 explorer AWD the question I have is about your rear driveshaft from the 1999 expedition did it come from a 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive?im assuming 4 wheel drive as the 2 wheel drive I think would be too long
Thanks. For the help

mark

 

[410Fortune]

I can answer that its a 4wd

Thread is 10 years old, but turboexplorer was on here in June so lets see if you get a response
2rd expedition shaft would be too long, 4wd expedition shaft has been known to work, when I did my old 96 explorer I used a 98 expedition rear shaft and it was from a 5.4 truck 4x4 I BELIEVE

here is that thread:

410Fortune 96 AWD Ex - goes low range

I picked up my transfer case last night. Two t cases were included in the deal, one is strictly for parts. The t case I will be using in my 96 5.0L AWD explorer is a 2001 F-150 BW 4406 manual shift :) this makes me very happy. I will no longer have full time AWD, instead I will have 2wd, 4hi...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[superdutymark]

I can answer that its a 4wd

Thread is 10 years old, but turboexplorer was on here in June so lets see if you get a response
2rd expedition shaft would be too long, 4wd expedition shaft has been known to work, when I did my old 96 explorer I used a 98 expedition rear shaft and it was from a 5.4 truck 4x4 I BELIEVE

here is that thread:

410Fortune 96 AWD Ex - goes low range

I picked up my transfer case last night. Two t cases were included in the deal, one is strictly for parts. The t case I will be using in my 96 5.0L AWD explorer is a 2001 F-150 BW 4406 manual shift :) this makes me very happy. I will no longer have full time AWD, instead I will have 2wd, 4hi...

www.explorerforum.com

I realize its 10 years old and appreciate your help and response. this is the only thread that i have found where someone has deatailed their swap.
I just needed clarification on the driveshaft and figured the 2wd would be too long.
If there are other threads i could reference if you could point me in a direction that would be great. I have a local yard that I can buy the transfer case and both shafts for 160.00 then its just labor.

Thanks Mark

 

[410Fortune]

Do not forget the shift linkage and shifter arm at the junk yard. Often times if you attach it to the transfer case at checkout they will not charge you extra, it will be counted as part of the transfer case instead of a separate item

It is a pretty straight forward swap and the benefits are huge. I always love to be there the first time somebody gets to drive their 5.0 explorer after the AWD is removed and then again when they use low range for the first time. The 4406 conversion turns these into real trucks instead of soccer mom suv like they were designed. The 4406 will pay for itself in fuel mileage and smiles

I have done this many many times over the years.
Usually I have the rear shaft rebuilt all new to the length I measure, lately I have been modifying my own rear d shafts to work, and now looking at Summit sells DIY driveshaft kits that might be perfect for my next 4406 conversion (actually building a 5.0 ranger with 4406 e shift right now)

 

[superdutymark]

Do not forget the shift linkage and shifter arm at the junk yard. Often times if you attach it to the transfer case at checkout they will not charge you extra, it will be counted as part of the transfer case instead of a separate item

It is a pretty straight forward swap and the benefits are huge. I always love to be there the first time somebody gets to drive their 5.0 explorer after the AWD is removed and then again when they use low range for the first time. The 4406 conversion turns these into real trucks instead of soccer mom suv like they were designed. The 4406 will pay for itself in fuel mileage and smiles

I have done this many many times over the years.
Usually I have the rear shaft rebuilt all new to the length I measure, lately I have been modifying my own rear d shafts to work, and now looking at Summit sells DIY driveshaft kits that might be perfect for my next 4406 conversion (actually building a 5.0 ranger with 4406 e shift right now)

I picked up my transfer case and front drive shaft last night. I think the tc was 49.00 and the d/s was 40. the only expedition rear shaft they had was real rusty so im gonna visit my upullit to day and see if I can get the rear drive shaft and the lever components today.
I have done a ranger 5.0 swap using explorer parts so if you have any questions I will try and help you out.

 

[superdutymark]

I picked up my transfer case and front drive shaft last night. I think the tc was 49.00 and the d/s was 40. the only expedition rear shaft they had was real rusty so im gonna visit my upullit to day and see if I can get the rear drive shaft and the lever components today.
I have done a ranger 5.0 swap using explorer parts so if you have any questions I will try and help you out.

I found a rear drive shaft from a 2002 ford expedition. I may have to change the rear companion flange as the rear axle was a 9.75 but the yoke does slide into the transfer case so im good there. d/s cost me 21.25 at the u pull it.
next I found the lower lever mounted on the transmission from a 1999 ford f150. unfortunately the boots, handle, and linkage to the transfer case were gone. I did find the transfer case linkage new on ebay for 20.00.So now im on the hunt for a shifter and boots.
do you happen to have the part number of the fron u joint I will need for the front drive shaft?

Thanks Mark